Bond, James Bond

Not long ago I blogged about a perfect day in the Swiss alps.  I neglected to write about something new I experienced there this summer.  For the last 4+ decades, the Schilthorn above Murren has traded on the James Bond movie, On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, which was filmed there when the Schilthornbahn (Cable car lift) was newly completed in 1967.  For all these years the unfortunately named “Touristarama” consisted of the dated and rather corny scenes from the movie which were filmed here.  They were stitched together with virtually no editing flair, creating a series of mental whiplashes as it bounced from scene to unrelated scene without context or connection.  But it was always good campy fun with one-time Bond, Australian George Lazenby, Diana Rigg as the Bond girl, and Telly Savalas as a great villain.  Goofball lines like, “Head him off at the precipice!” spiced up the herky-jerky visual narrative.  It was always worth it just to hear the Bond theme and try to identify elements of the Schilthorn station.  The Bond-o-rama kitsch was paired with a rather nice AV show of scenes and cultural events from the area during all four seasons, accompanied by classical music. The latter had been removed in recent years, much to my disappointment.  As a Bond fan of many years I had usually gone in to watch both before having my habitual hot chocolate in the revolving restaurant.

This past off-season, the Schilthorn decided to update and upgrade the Touristarama.  The new “Bond World” premiered this summer and I got to see it for the first time.  While it is not what I would call impressive, it is quite an upgrade from the low-tech experience of the past.  A number of interactive stations allow visitors to hear commentary from the actors, producers, director, crew, and even locals about the experience of making of the movie.

A few interactive installments entertain visitors.  One can drive the bobsled or help pilot a helicopter.  My favorite element is a computer screen where you can superimpose a digital image of your own face over the face of Bond, Riggs, Savalas, etc.

My group and I laughed ourselves silly taking turns putting ourselves into cheesy Bond scenes.  I’m thinking I’ve got the role wrapped up when Daniel Craig decides to move on.  I hear they are looking for an older, more mature Bond.

But best of all, for me, they have kept the kitschy old film.  You can see it, still lacking any editing savvy, in a small theater at the end of the exhibit.  They’ve even re-added the regional highlight feature.  Of course, the reason one spends the money and time to travel to the 10,000 foot peak is for the amazing views of the Jungfrau massif and surrounding alps.  But some good old-fashioned Bond fun is a nice bonus (along with the hot chocolate!).

Announcing Imprint Tours' Vibrant Vietnam

Dear Travel Friends,

Imprint Tours is proud to announce our 2015 Vibrant Vietnam tour. The 14-day tour begins Jan 19 and ends Feb 1, 2015. The cost is $2550 (single supplement $275) making it our best value ever! Come join us on this Eastern adventure. Vietnam offers the best of Southeast Asian culture:  magnificent landscapes and scenery, friendly locals, great value, great food, and fascinating architecture, culture, and history. In addition, Vietnam boasts two elements shared by few other Eastern destinations.

First, our own history is intimately tied to theirs due to our involvement in the Vietnam War. Memories and reminders of the war, the seminal event in their modern history, are ever present. Though they suffered much, the people were never broken by the conflict and the country flourishes today. Perhaps surprisingly, Americans are particularly welcome visitors. We are treated as honored guests and the country’s youth aspire to emulate American culture. Second, Vietnam is newly opened to mainstream tourism making it a relatively unspoiled destination. We are hitting that perfect moment when the dynamism of a burgeoning economy and nation adds an element of excitement to the traveler experience but quiet and tranquil corners still remain. We will pursue each of those elements to the fullest extent. It’s an ideal time to visit.

Beyond the war the historical influences on Vietnam have created a cultural mosaic that begs exploration. Hindu/Indian influences can be felt in the south, the Chinese shadow falls heavily in the north, and the echo of French colonialism can be perceived throughout. For natural beauty, Halong Bay and Tam Coc compete with pristine beaches, mystical caves, and the serenity of the mighty Mekong Delta for our attentions. The ruins of ancient dynasties evoke ghosts of the past and pagoda-like temples dot the countryside. Finally, completing the picture are the fascinating and energetic cities of Hanoi and Saigon. In fact, Hanoi was recently voted #8 on Trip Advisor’s Top 10 “New Travel Destinations” list.

We’ll go during the shoulder season of late January to avoid the crowds, stretch our dollars, avoid heavy rains, and enjoy milder temperatures. As you expect from Imprint we’ll combine seeing the top sights with intimate cultural connection experiences. As always, our hand-picked Vietnamese escort will introduce us to her home, smooth the way for us, navigate the language barrier, and insure a memorable experience.

For those interested we have added an optional extension to Angkor Wat.  The extension adds 4 days to the end of the tour, Feb 1 to 4. The cost is $750 (single supplement $75). We will fly into Siem Reap and together explore the mother of all Southeast Asian sights:  Angkor Wat. Highlights include mighty Angkor Wat itself, the royal city of Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm, Banteay Srie, a traditional Khmer dance drama, and much more.

Below is a detailed itinerary, complete with hotel and restaurant links. To view the Vietnam Photo Gallery on our website, follow this link: Vietnam Photo Gallery

We are accepting deposits now so reserve your place. If you have any questions or concerns, do not hesitate to contact us at: info@imprinttours.com. We hope to see you in 2015! Keep traveling and “Travel with Intent”.

Day 1  Hanoi

Our tour starts this afternoon around 2 pm. We’ll have our get-acquainted meeting, meet our Vietnamese escort, and head out to explore the city. Our guided tour takes in the major sights including the Temple of Literature and Hoa Lo Prison (nicknamed the ‘Hanoi Hilton’ by American POWs). We’ll explore the Old Quarter whose streets are named for the goods once offered here, including Silk Street, Rice Street and Jewelers Street. We’ll end our day with a traditional Vietnamese dinner at the elegant Madame Hien restaurant. http://verticale-hanoi.com/madame-hien

Accommodation: Lan Vien hotel / Deluxe rooms Address: 32 Hang Bai/37A Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Ph: (84-4)3722 8888 http://lanvienhotel.com.vn/

Day 2  Hanoi Hanoi – Tam Coc – Hanoi

Today we take a 2 hour drive from urban Hanoi to the rural province of Ninh Binh. Our first destination is Hoa Lu, the capital of Vietnam during the 10^th century Dinh and Le Dynasties. The ancient citadel once covered 750 acres of land. However, the passage of time has left only fragments of this once glorious capital city. Upon arrival our escort will take us through the ruins to the Dinh & Le Temples, dedicated to the Dinh and Le emperors and restored in the 17th century. Next up, an easy one-hour bike ride through the breathtaking countryside. This area is often referred to as the “HalongBay of the Land” due to its spectacular scenery. Limestone karsts topped by verdant jungle vegetation rise dramatically to tower over rice paddies and green valleys. After working up an appetite we’ll arrive at Tam Coc for lunch together at a local restaurant. Once refreshed we’ll explore Tam Coc, which translates as “ThreeCaves”. This leg of our journey is by small boat. Sit back and enjoy the two-hour journey through caves, past villages, and beside the lush green rice paddies of the Red River Delta, always with the stunning backdrop of karst crags and towers. Bring extra flash cards for your camera! After our full day in the countryside, we return to Hanoi for a free evening. For those interested, we can arrange to see a performance of the famous water puppet theater, Vietnam’s signature performing art.

Day 3  Hanoi – Halong Bay

You can leave your luggage behind at our Hanoi hotel and pack an overnight bag. We are off to Halong Bay, Vietnam’s most impressive scenic wonder. Views of sailing junks navigating the 3000+ karst islands and rocky outcrops jutting out of the bay are nothing short of spectacular. We travel to Bai Chay (Halong City West) where we board our sailing junk for an exploration of the bay, enjoy a seafood lunch and dinner and spend a night on board (private twin rooms). We visit a sea cave in the area, kayaks are available, and there is always the option to enjoy a swim. It is a wonderful experience to spend a night on the bay. The views at sunset and sunrise are incredible!

Day 4  Halong – Hanoi – overnight train

After breakfast, we continue cruising around HalongBay, before returning to port and driving back to Hanoi. Arriving back in the capital, we check into our hotel day use rooms until leaving for an overnight train around 23:00. You’ll have free time to explore and enjoy more of the city’s attractions. Perhaps afternoon tea at the Metropole Hotel or paying homage to Vietnam’s most famous revolutionary, Ho Chi Minh. Later we board the Reunification Express for our overnight train journey down to Quang Binh. We travel in ‘soft sleeper’ class which is a compartment for four people. This journey allows us to maximize our sightseeing time.

Day 5  Quang Binh – Phong Nha – Hue

After disembarking from the train (around 8 am) our escort will take us out for a local breakfast. Then we’ll take a short break to refresh in hotel day use rooms before visiting the Phong Nha cave. Once again we travel by boat, cruising along the SonRiver to the cave, another of Vietnam’s great natural treasures. We’ll journey through the first half mile of the cavern in our boat, then continue on foot into the heart of the cave. Inside we’ll explore the remains of Cham Altars and Inscriptions in addition to the fantastic rock formations. After our return to the sunlit world we have an afternoon’s drive to our final destination, Hue. We’ll have dinner together in a local restaurant this evening.

Accommodation: Mondial Hue hotel / Standard rooms Address: 17 Nguyen Hue St., Hue Ph: (84-54) 3945599 http://www.mondialhotel.com.vn/

Day 6     24-Jan-2015     Hue

Another waterborne excursion along the PerfumeRiver takes us to the famous Thien Mu Pagoda, a center for anti-government protest in the early 1960s. We also visit the extravagant mausoleum of Tu Duc, one of the great Nguyen emperors who ruled Vietnam from Hue between 1802 and 1945. This afternoon, we take a tour of the partially ruined Citadel. It’s six miles of walls contain the palaces and pavilions of the Mandarins and the remains of the ForbiddenPurpleCity, where only the emperor or his eunuchs and concubines were allowed entrance. Many buildings remain blackened and crumbling, creating an evocative ambiance, ideal for photographing or imagining the ghosts of the mandarins.

Day 7  Hue – Hoi An

One of Vietnam’s most scenic road trips over Hai Van Pass begins our day. Our destination, Hoi An, was originally a Cham port town so has been influenced down the centuries by traders from many cultures. The town is a living museum, with Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese, and European architectural influences. There are pagodas, assembly halls, attractive wooden merchant’s houses, and colorful tiled houses scattered along the small streets. Once a bustling port, today Hoi An’s ambiance, tranquility, and charm make it one of the most delightful places to visit in Vietnam. This afternoon will include a guided walking tour of the city center and tonight we’ll dine together.

Accommodation: Hoian hotel / Superior rooms Address: 10 Tran Hung Dao Str., Hoi An Ph: (84 510) 386 1445 http://www.hoianhotel.com.vn/

Day 8  Hoi An

This morning, we visit My Son, the Cham civilization’s spiritual home, where Cham kings were buried as early as the fourth century. There are numerous interesting carved stone towers, sanctuaries, and tombs to explore and photograph at this intriguing archaeological site. This afternoon is free to explore, shop, or relax in Hoi An.

Day 9  Hoi An

Today we continue our vacation from our vacation. Hoi An is a marvelous place to wander and enjoy the thriving riverside market, a good place to buy silk. Local tailors can create fine garments for a bargain price, all within a day. For surf and sand lovers we will arrange an optional boat trip to beautiful palm-ringed ChamIsland. The island’s colorful corals and clear waters make it a prime snorkeling destination and equipment will be provided.

Day 10  Hoi An – Ho Chi Minh City

This morning we depart Hoi An for nearby Danang, where we board our flight to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City). Saigon is the largest city in Vietnam and the nation’s economic capital. Upon arrival a guided city tour takes us into the historic heart of the city where we’ll admire the many beautiful French colonial buildings such as the post office and the Hotel de Ville (city hall). Other highlights include visits to the ReunificationPalace, the WarRemnantsMuseum, and Notre Dame Cathedral. We’ll have dinner together tonight.

Accommodation: Asian Ruby 1 hotel / Deluxe rooms Address: 26 Thi Sach st, Ben Nghe ward, Dist., HCMC Ph: (84-8) 3 827 7948 – 7949 http://asianrubyhotel.com

Day 11  Ho Chi Minh City 

The infamous Cu Chi Tunnels are this morning’s goal. Cu Chi is actually the name of the district which includes the extensive underground network (approximately 125 miles) of tunnels dug during the Vietnam War by the Viet Minh and later expanded by the Viet Cong. The tunnels contained hospitals, accommodations, and schools, and were used extensively for refuge and storage. They were also utilized as a military base by the Viet Cong. The 1968 Tet Offensive was launched from Cu Chi with surprising success. A section of the tunnels has been widened and expanded to allow visitors a sense what life underground must have been like. After returning to Saigon you’ll have the afternoon and evening free to explore on your own.

Day 12  Mekong Delta

Today is our cultural connection day. We depart Saigon and head for the agriculturally rich Mekong Delta and the town of Cai Be, where we begin a MekongRiver boat trip that takes us past a floating market, lush scenery, and many cultural photo ops. We’ll stop to visit riverside villages with a chance to meet the people, sample various tropical fruit, and learn about local commercial enterprises. Our goal is the Vinh Long homestay, located on an island. After settling in we have the opportunity to take an easy guided bike ride around the island or relax in a hammock and soak up the local way of life before enjoying dinner cooked by a local family.

Accommodation: Vinh Long Homestay

Day 13  Ho Chi Minh City 

Before departing our island homestay we’ll take a guided morning walk through the island’s orchards and a tour of its narrow canals in traditional wooden sampans. Then its back down the Mekong to Cai Be and Saigon. On the way we’ll stop to visit the vibrant and colorful Cao Dai temple. Indigenous to Vietnam, Caodaism is a unique fusion of Taoism, Buddhism, Hinduism, Christianity, Confucianism, and Islam. This evening we’ll have our last dinner together at KOTO https://www.koto.com.au. In keeping with Imprint’s values of responsible travel we support KOTO. This acclaimed restaurant trains and employs underprivileged or homeless youths, teaching them job skills, life skills, and English, thereby helping them become productive citizens. And the food is excellent, making KOTO one of the top-ranked restaurants in Saigon.

Accommodation: Asian Ruby 1 hotel / Deluxe rooms

Day 14  Ho Chi Minh City – Departure

The tour ends after breakfast. We’ll help arrange airport transfers for those heading home today. For those continuing on to Cambodia (Angkor Wat optional extension), we’ll have a leisurely morning and a midday flight to Siem Reap.

Tour Includes 10 nights hotel accommodation, 1 overnight on-boat cruise, 1 overnight train, 1 night homestay; Day use rooms for late check out on day 4 in Hanoi (14.00-23.00) and early check in on day 5 in Quang Binh (8.00-12.00) Tours and transfers by private air-conditioned bus All activities and entrances: Hanoi city tour, Temple of Literature, Hoa Lo prison; Dinh & Le Temples; Tam Coc bike ride & boat trip; cave excursion Halong Bay; Son River cruise; Phong Nha Cave; Perfume River cruise; Thien Mu pagoda; Tu Duc tomb; Hue Citadel & Purple Forbidden City; Hoi An walking tour; HCMC city tour, Reunification Palace, War Remnants Musuem, Notre Dame; Cu Chi tunnel excursion; Mekong boat trip (2) with villages and floating market visits; Cao Dai temple; and more Services of English speaking escort and Imprint tour director Meals: 13 breakfasts, 2 lunches, 7 dinners Tips for escort, tour director, local guides, drivers, boat captains, & group meals All Transportation:  Bus, Train, Boat, Plane (Denang – HCMC)

Exclusions Int’l arrival & departure flights; airport tax; Vietnam entry visa Free time meals and sightseeing Drinks at group meals Expenditures of personal nature

Angkor Wat Extension – Feb 1 – 4

Day 1  Siem Reap

Sousadei! Welcome to Cambodia. Upon arrival, our Cambodian escort will pick us up from SiemReapInternationalAirport and transfer us to our hotel. We’ll check-in and refresh. In the late afternoon we’ll set out for sunset at the temples of Angkor. Sunset at mighty Angkor Wat is a travel experience not to be missed.

Accommodation:  Angkor Holiday Hotel / Superior Rooms National Road No 6, corner of Sivatha street, Siem Reap, Cambodia Tel 063 966 777 www.angkorholidayhotel.com 

Day 2  Angkor Wat & Angkor Thom

Magnificent, storied Angkor Wat itself anchors our sightseeing today. Easily the most famous and best-preserved of the temples within the Angkor complex this 12^th century royal temple is the jewel of the greater Angkor crown. Soaring corncob spires, miles of bas relief narrative sculpture, concentric carved limestone walls, and huge moats combine to make Angkor Wat the world’s biggest religious building and a physical representation of the Hindu/Buddhist cosmos. After a guided tour and plenty of free time for personal exploration and photography we’ll return to town for lunch together at Sala Bai restaurant. Not only does Sala Bai provide excellent food in a charming setting, but like KOTO in Saigon it is an institution whose purpose is training underprivileged Cambodian youth and we are pleased to support their efforts with our patronage. http://www.salabai.com/html/

After some down time our destination will be Angkor Thom. This royal city complex boasts many of Angkor’s most iconic and photogenic structures and is a favorite among travelers. Highlights include the distinctive Bayon, with its 54 towers decorated with 200 enigmatic smiling faces, the pyramidal Bapuon temple, and the famous Terrace of the Elephants and Terrace of the Leper King. We finish the afternoon with a stop at the photogenic South Gate where gods and demons line the road, struggling in a cosmic tug-of-war. The Gate itself is crowned with four monumental Khmer faces, enigmatically facing the four cardinal directions.

Tonight we’ll indulge in a classic Cambodian dinner while enjoying traditional Khmer music and dance.

Day 3  Ta Prohm & Banteay Srei

Our first destination today is fascinating Ta Prohm. Feel like one of the early explorers as you visit this temple. It was left as found by 19^th century archaeologists: overgrown by the jungle. You’ll have plenty of time to explore and photograph on your own, capturing the enormous, all-invasive roots of the Strangler Fig and Silk Cotton trees that entwine and dominate the crumbling buildings and walls of the complex.

After a mid-day break we take a trip through the countryside and small villages to Banteay Srei, a charming red sandstone Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva. Considered by many to be the jewel of Angkorian architecture, this temple has the finest and best preserved relief carvings in the site.

Tonight we’ll enjoy our farewell dinner at Marum Restaurant. Marum, like Sala Bai & KOTO, serves creative and delicious cuisine while doubling as a training school and employer for Siem Reap streetchildren. http://www.tree-alliance.org/our-restaurants/marum.asp?mm=or&sm=ma

Day 4 Tour Over

The tour finishes today after breakfast. We’ll assist with transport to the airport or with plans for continued exploration of Angkor (you will still have one day left on your Angkor entrance pass). Consider a visit to Kbal Spean’s waterfall and riverbank carvings, overgrown and untouristed Beng Mealea, or a floating village on Tonle Sap lake.

Angkor Extension Includes Arrival airport transfer Private AC transport for all excursions Local English speaking guide & Imprint tour director All accommodation with daily breakfast 1 lunch; 2 dinners; Khmer music/dance performance Angkor 3-day pass Water on tours and excursions Tips for guides, tour director, drivers, and group meals

Exclusions Free time meals and sightseeing Drinks at group meals Arrival visa ($21)

Cinque Terre Cultural Connection

On all my tours I talk about seeking authentic cultural connections.  There is so much insulation between we travelers and genuine connection experiences - including the nature of commercial tourism, a tour guide, or tour director. The real cultural experiences, the ones that create joy, expand our horizons, and cause us to think in a new way are a bit hard to come by.  One has to be alert for them and get off the beaten track a bit.  That is exactly what we mean at Imprint when we set out to "Travel with Intent".  On a recent Rick Steves tour, several tour members came back from a hike in the Cinque Terre with a great connection story.  Rather than retell it, I'll just include it here in David's own words. Thanks David! From David Champagne’s journal:

Day 2 in Cinque Terre started with a a hike from Monterosso to Vernazza.  An early start allowed us to avoid the morning rush of hikers and experience some of the most beautiful ocean views Italy has to offer undisturbed.  After breakfast in Vernazza the decision to take the train to Corniglia was made in order to save time and energy.

When we arrived and looked up at the 250 steps we would have to climb, we nearly turned back.  About half way up, regret set in as my leg muscles burned with exhaustion.  As I looked around at those pushing forward it encouraged me to continue.  I noticed a mother and her daughter ahead who both had reached a point where neither had the energy to continue.  The mother tried her best to convince her daughter to push forward but to no avail.  Not familiar with the language, I tried my best to explain that I would carry her daughter on my shoulders.  Flustered and in a a hurry, the mother was very accepting of my offer but her daughter did not like the idea of riding on the shoulders of a stranger.

As the mother pleaded with her daughter to take my offer I thought of my childhood and how I’d do just about anything for money.  I reached into my pocket for some change.  The young girl noticed my handful of money.  I told her there was too much for me to carry and wondered if she would hold a piece of it for me.  With one last push of encouragement from her mother, up she went onto my shoulders for the last third of the climb.  When we reached the top, her mother expressed her appreciation and pointed us into town.  By far the best 20 cents I ever spent.

Family Harvest

Last year I helped my lifelong friend Barry Sweet plan a trip to Italy. He and his wife Joan returned with tales of wonderful trip.  They said they had the trip of a lifetime.  Some time later, Barry sent me a story he'd written about one of their adventures.  They had a day that most of us fantasize about when we set out to travel.  It is a story that embodies everything I believe about the spontaneous, serendipitous nature of unfettered, cultural connection travel.  With Barry's permission, I'd like to share it with all of you.  Enjoy.

Vernazza, a tiny village on the Italian Coastline, population 500, steep vineyard covered hills cascading down to the Mediterranean, down to a little cove, with a hand-cupped water breakwall, sailboats bobbing inside the cove sitting right beside the little town piazza, pastel colored buildings, in almost an amphitheater shaped crescent around the cove, with people drinking wine and eating pasta underneath shade umbrellas and in the shadow of the castle tower that is perched above the village on the hill. Vernazza is a hillside village and part of the Cinque Terra, five little towns along the Ligurian Sea.  The charm of the village is that one can hike between the villages along a romantic footpath for miles along the coastline.  Vernazza is the middle Village of the five villages.  I got up early before sunrise to walk down into the village and get Joan a coffee but as the coffee shop was not open yet, I decided to hike to the first town north called Monterosso.

With stunning views back to the village of Vernazza, I enjoyed a peaceful morning along the romantic trail.  Just after sunrise, I noticed a group of men about in their 60’s, lifting heavy crates onto what appeared to be a small single-rail cog train.  The single rail went almost straight up the hillside, I supposed, to the road way above the town.  It was a small engine cart that appeared to be like a mechanical mule that would haul their heavy load (whatever it was) up the hill for them so that they wouldn't have to carry it by hand.  I wondered in my mind, what it was that they were loading in the crates… it then dawned on me that it was September, and they were probably loading their harvested grapes from their vineyard!  The crates would go on to the mechanical mule, and then be hauled up to the top of the hill to be picked up by the truck… “Wow” I thought…  “I wonder if they would let me help…”  I ran across the hillside.  In broken Spanish, because I didn't speak Italian, I said,"Ayudate” “Huh?”  They said. "Can I help you?" “Huh?”  They said. "Me. Lift. Grapes. On. Cart.”  I said, flexing my arms in front of my body like a muscleman. "Yah! Yah!! Come on!!” they laughed. So I began hoisting full-to-the-brim crates onto the mechanical mule, while they arranged the heavy load.  In broken English, they asked me my name.  When I told them my name was Barry.  They called me Barry Brute flexing their arms in front of them like musclemen.  The family patriarch introduced himself as an Enrico.  I was also introduced to Mario Brute (the strong Mario), and Mario Bella (the beautiful Mario or handsome Mario) to which we all laughed. After 15 minutes or so of loading grapes onto the cart, the women of the family came up the hillside from the village.  I could tell that in Italian, they asked the men, “Who is this blonde American guy and what is he doing loading the grapes??”  Through a bunch of laughter and quick discussion, I could tell that they said, “Well… he offered to help… and we said… SURE!” Enrico told the women my name, and they hailed me - “Barry Brute!!”  I quickly added “Brute y Suavemiento…” (meaning Strong and Smoothe…)  They burst out loud with laughter and kissed me on both cheeks in classic expressive Italian style and we became instant friends.  I was introduced to Elisa, Marcia and Barbara.  Together, we all went back to work, joking, laughing and talking in general-all-purpose hand motions. When the crates were all loaded onto the mule, Elisa looked at me and in half Italian and half English, and said, "Do you wish to come with us and cut the grapes?”  She used the scissors sign with her fingers.  Now, here is where I thought "I've been gone for an hour and a half.  Joan is probably wondering where I am and she is alone in an unfamiliar village in Italy not knowing a word of Italian, and this family is asking if I would like to go and harvest grapes with them on their family vineyard.  Am I going to say no to THAT?  Trusting that Joan has always said, “When adventures come your way.  Go for it.  I never want to stand in the way of your freedom…”  I turned to Elisa and said… “SURE!!” The whole little clan adventured up the hillside, up and up through the vineyard, through gates, past fences, around barbed wire, up terraces and under vine archways… finally arriving at the un-harvested section of the family vineyard.  All along the way Enrico warned me not to trip on the guy-wires that held up the trellises.  The vineyard grows along stair-stepped terraces, three foot tall posts are anchored in place by guy-wires and wires are stretched across the tops of the posts to make a canopy on which the grapes grow, hanging down underneath. When we arrived at the area to harvest, I was given a burlap sack and instructed to lie down on the ground underneath the canopy reaching up, and with pruning shears, cut the stems of the perfectly formed clusters of purple grapes, green grapes and white grapes, while placing them in the crates beside us.  When our crate was full we would push it down by our feet, which was picked up and placed on the mechanical mule, which hauled them to the top of the hillside to be picked up by the farm truck and taken back to the village.  Three of us would work side-by-side moving along the length of the terrace.  The first person in line would take the Lion's share of the grapes, the next person sliding sideways beside them would get the grapes that the first person missed, and the third person would "sweep" and get all the remaining grapes, so that none of the harvest would be left behind.  We joked and laughed in a blend of English and Italian for over an hour as we harvested the season’s grapes in the family Vineyard. Now mind you, I was wearing white surfer pants and a blue button-down oxford shirt, both of which were now almost completely brown.  After a lot of work and laughter (honestly, I don’t know which was more fun), I finally uttered to the group.  "Okay.  I gotta go.  My Joan in town is probably wondering where I am!”  They all laughed and said "Okay Barree!!...Bye Bye Barree!!! Grazie, Grazie and Ciao Barree!!” Enrico walked me down a couple flights of terrace and said "Be careful Barree of these wires that steady the trellises, sometimes the pigs (snort, snort), wild boars trip on these and tumble down the hill and break their neck.  It happens to humans too.  When you get to the bottom of the hill and you are safe, call up and let us know that you are okay…  Okay Barree? “Okay Enrico” I said and thanked him for the wonderful time.  It took me a full 20 minutes to get down the hillside back to the trail to the village, down steps, down ladders, down dirt chutes, jumping down from terrace to terrace, through people's land, getting stuck and having to backtrack…  Finally, safely at the bottom and back on the trail, I turned around, cupped my hands around the edges of my mouth and yelled back up the hillside… “Enricooohhh…” The whole hillside erupted with voices,“Barreeee!!!” “Grazie and Arivaderci” I yelled “Grazie!! and Ciao Barreee!! Grazie!!!”  Came the response. Happy, I jogged back down the trail to town.  I Picked up a coffee on the quaint cobblestone streets of the village and headed back to Joan.  I came in the door soaked in sweat… and brown.  Joan’s eyes sparkled as she said “Wow, do you look like you have a story…”  Zero Guilt.  Just like she had assured me.  We laughed out loud as I unfolded the morning's adventures.Later that day, down in the village as Joan and I walked into one of the village squares, I heard a yell…  “Barreee!!!”  There was the whole family after their day's harvest, standing around talking in the little center of town.  As we approached the group and were greeted with hugs and kisses, I introduced Joan.  "Everyone… this is Joan-a-Bella”  “Joan-a-Bella!!!”  They threw up their hands and kissed her on both cheeks.  Joan sparkled with delight.

After chatting for a while, Elisa said “Now follow Mario Bella.  He will take you to the Wine Cantina.”  “Wine Cantina?” I thought… “What is a Wine Cantina…?”  Elisa must have seen the quizzical look on my face and she said "Just follow Mario" while motioning us away with her expressive Italian hand.  We followed Mario up through the charming cobblestone back streets of Vernazza.  It was everything you would imagine as a beautiful small Italian village. We reached a tall wrought iron archway gate in the side of a stone building.  Mario inserted a key and the gate swung open… inside was an arched room built & shaped completely of stone.  A huge oak wine cask on the right, and a grape press on the left, covering and hanging from the ceiling were clusters of plump juicy grapes… “Dolce” grapes. “Sweet” grapes in English, Mario said, “for making the dolce wine… the sweet wine”.  Mario broke out some common glasses and tapped the oak cask for some wine and a toast.  We toasted in Italian and English, drank wine, and then pressed the grapes. The stone shelves along the edge of the room were filled with huge Chianti shaped bottles.  Even huger Chianti shaped bottles were on the floor standing about waist high.  As we pressed the grapes, the beautiful juice poured out the bottom lip of the press into a bucket, the leaves remained crushed in the bottom of the press, we poured the bountiful juice through a funnel into one of the waist high Chianti bottles to let the juice “settle”.  From here, a hose was placed down into the settled juice, and we siphoned the juice into another big wine bottle (just like we used to do with gasoline as kids).  Into this bottle of juice, an antibacterial agent was placed, which caused the juice to fizz.  After all the bacteria was killed, we again siphoned that juice into a bucket, which was poured through another large funnel into the great oak cask, which would then ferment for four months and then become the family wine. Onlookers tried to peek through the wrought iron gate to see what all the wonder was, but Mario was a bit bashful about this family winemaking and quietly kept to his business. We toasted, laughed, and drank more wine. In an attempt to make deeper conversation, I used my little one page Rick Steves’ English Italian dictionary to ask such questions as.  “Do you own this Wine Cantina or do you rent it?”  But all I could find to ask from my dictionary in Italian was:  “Is there a cover charge here?” to which Mario burst-laughed out loud.  We discovered together that the phrase “Man Cave” in Italian, was “Cantiniera”.  Mario got full delight out of his American friends knowing this.  We toasted and drank more wine. Mario showed us on the Italian calendar posted on the wall of the Cantina that the grape harvest is every year the third week in September.  Joan told him that we loved the wine and delighted in his company.  I pulled out my driver's license to show him that my last name was “Dolce”.  He laughed and pulled out his driver's license and showed us that his last name was truly “Bello” so it wasn't a joke after all… he truly was “Mario Bello.”  We laughed and drank more wine.  Joan’s eyes sparkling all the time.

Next year, we are invited back in third week of September for the grape harvest in Vernazza.  We are going.  I’m wearing brown clothes.

Guedelon

Earlier this year I had a chance to visit a sight that I have not visited before and that I have wanted to see for some time.  I love working in Europe and exposing new groups of travelers to its wonders, but there are few sights remaining in Europe which fire my inquisitive passion.  There is certainly MUCH I have yet to experience, but little that is not a relative repeat of things I have seen many times.  So when I had the chance to take my group to Guedelon this summer, I was excited.

Guedelon is an authentic medieval castle being constructed in western Burgundy.  Not only is it being built according to 13^th century plans, but using only the technology and craftsmanship then available.  What an amazing and ambitious undertaking.  And for visitors, what an opportunity to encounter living history.  I love it.  It is the ultimate open-air museum.  Everyone, including our excellent guide Sarah, wears period clothing.  Draft horses replace tractors and trucks and human hamster wheels replace cranes.

Watching the blacksmith hammer out tools by hand, the rope maker twining fibers into strands, stone masons shaping blocks, carpenters sawing planks by hand, or artisans making roof tiles is really cool. If you’re lucky enough to have a guide as excellent as Sarah the site comes alive. Learning to do the various tasks in the traditional, Medieval way required painstaking research.  In some cases, records are not available and the builders are forced to come up with creative innovations to continue the work.  Really impressive I think.  The only deference to our century is the use of hardhats, safety goggles, and some protective clothing.  Otherwise, you’d never know you're not in the 13^th century.  For an armchair historian like me, it was extraordinary.  For anyone traveling in Burgundy with their own transportation, I'd say this is a no-miss sight.

Autumn in Vienna

I wrote about Vienna last year.  The city is fast becoming my favorite European destination.  There seems always something new to discover or experience here.  After about 10 visits in the last few years I'm still enjoying new discoveries.  A week ago I wrote about still getting excited about certain aspects of European travel, even after 17 years of guiding. Vienna is one of those places that constantly reveals new angles.  To begin with, I'd never been here so late in the season.  The Oct air is crisp and clear and the autumn sky is an intense blue.  It felt good just to wander around and drink in the city's energy.

I arrived after dark and only had time to check into my hotel and grab some dinner. I chose the famous Figlmuller restaurant. For more than a century they've been serving Vienna's best Wienerschnitzel (literally: schnitzel Vienna style).  The massive schnitzels are certainly Vienna's biggest, spilling off all sides of the plate.  I once took a group to this tiny restaurant - they shoe-horned us into a tiny back room.  It was very crowded but I loved it - one of the most memorable meals of any tour.  My dinner was excellent and I left feeling completely stuffed.

One of the great pleasures of Vienna in the fall is the availability of Sturm. Sturm is an early press wine, barely fermented, which they only serve in the autumn.  It is cloudy and sweet, comes in either red or white, is usually served in a small mug, and I've quickly acquired a taste for it.  I had a glass with my Figlemuller dinner. The next day I stumbled upon an autumn market

which had a distinctly Sturm and Pumpkin (Kurbiss in German) theme.  I had kurbiss sausage for lunch, sampled pumpkin cheese, applied some pumpkin oil to my lips, and watched children carving.  Surrounded by Vienna's typically beautiful architecture, I had another mug of sturm with my lunch.  I learned from the vendor that sturm is considered food rather than drink in Vienna.  Thus, one does not make the traditional toast of "prost" before drinking.  In fact, if you forget yourself and make that faux pas you are required to buy a round for your friends.  Rather than toasting before they drink, they say "Mahlzeit", the Viennese version of Guten Appetite.

Since it was Sunday I had attended a mass/concert at the Augustiner church in the Hofburg Palace complex prior to my pumpkin/sturm-themed market lunch.  It was an impressive service, more famous for its world-class choir, organist, and orchestra than for the content of its mass.  I arrived just in time to slip into one of the last single seats available.  The program included Haydn's Nicolaimesse, Mozart's Laudate Dominum, and Schubert's Auguste iam Coelestium.  The acoustics were marvelous and the setting inspiring. I must admit the high liturgy of the mass, complete with responsive readings and incense, combined with the operatic-quality music, was very inspiring.  I often talk of transcendent moments on tour - this was one for me.

In the afternoon I continued my wandering. Eventually I was ready for a break and found my way to a "Viennese living room" - one of her famed coffee houses.  Locals all have their favorites. Tourists flock to the Sacher Cafe (for the cake) or the Mozart Cafe (for the name). But I like the venerable Tyrolerhof with its threadbare upholstered booths and well worn

wooden floors.  Its not the most classy of coffee houses, but the waiters are still wearing tuxedos and the coffee still comes on a silver tray.  Once you order you coffee the table is yours for as long as you like.  Select a newspaper from the dozens available and relax.  This is a Viennese institution I can get used to.  I'm sure Starbucks had a look a Vienna's coffee culture as well as Italy's when they developed their marketing strategy.

My last stop of the day was the famous Vienna State Opera.  In an attempt to keep opera accessible for everyone, a number of very affordable (3-4 euros) standing room tickets are sold for each performance.  I went to see Verdi's Don Carlos.  Sold out months ahead, I bought my standing ticket 5 minutes before the curtain.  Granted, I was at the back of the standing section but people began to filter out after the first 30 minutes and I had a very good view after that.  I must confess, opera is not my cup of tea and I too departed long before the closing act.  In fact, I enjoyed the Augustiner concert much more. One last highlight of Vienna to mention - her horse-drawn carriages. Many of Europe's city's boast this service.  But I have to say, in most cases I find it a bit on the campy side. Somehow riding around in Florence in a carriage seems both pretentious and incongruent with the historical setting. Vienna on the other hand, with its regal and imperial ambiance, its wide boulevards and 19th century architecture, and its famous Lipizzaner stallions, seems tailor-made and eminently appropriate for a carriage ride in the historic center.  And I love the colorful ear coverings the horses wear in cold weather. Even the horses seem to get imperial treatment in this town! Paris is . . . well, Paris.  Prague is architecturally stunning.  Barcelona is energetic.  Rome is a lasagna of historical layers.  But for my money, Vienna is the greatest city in Europe.

A Tour Member Tribute

On a recent Best of Europe tour, one of my tour members, an Australian woman from Perth, wrote a poem for our last night gathering.  Over the years I’ve had many memorable nights of “tour closure” and the best are always when someone or several someones think ahead and prepare something special - like writing a poem or song.  Over the years I’ve received many gifts and mementos from groups, but the most valuable have always been those where the group has invested some time to create something for me.  Time is a precious commodity on a tour and I’m greatly touched when they invest some on my behalf.  So a poem like this is not only clever and amusing but also reflective of the experiences shared and is certainly cherished by me as a symbol of their gratitude.  Enjoy:

A poem by Karen Hemmings

We signed up for this Rick Steves’ Tour To see Europe at its best 2 West Aussies on a big black bus Yanks and Canucks making up the rest

With Reid our guide as our illustrious leader And not forgetting our driver, the Dutchman, Peter We’ve seen Rembrandt, da Vinci, Michelangelo, and more But if I see one more painting I’m running for the door

We’ve had a blast these last 21 days And made friends to truly treasure But to count the stairs we’ve had to climb Would be far too many to measure

Lauterbrunnen and Venice were our top votes for sure Gondolas and mountains had us dreaming for more Cruising the Rhine and meeting Hr Jung Were more highlights for us and we had so much fun

And on this our last night we gather to toast To Reid our leader and fabulous host We thank you for your knowledge, patience and planning And leave you with “I’m just saying” [RTC:  You had to be there.]

Thanks Karen, I too had a wonderful time.  Reid

Safinenthal Baroque

I’m back in the Lautebrunnen valley of Switzerland, surely one of the most beautiful places on earth and a place many of you have been with me.  The weather is overcast but the air is fresh and clean, the sound of running water and cowbells are serenading me as I settle in for the evening.  I’ve just had one of Otto’s great “homestyle” meals (the one with the BEST mashed potatoes ever!) so I’m feeling sated and content.  Otto and Marianne of Hotel Stechelberg now greet me as a returning family member and it feels like home to be here.  After two years of working here in my twenties and two more winter seasons with Julie in our thirties, Switzerland almost feels like coming home.  The language sounds familiar (though I’m still pretty lost to understand the Swiss-German completely), the currency is familiar, and the farm and mountain smells are nostalgic.  The sounds and sight of the mountains are welcome and connote good feelings.  Its just great to be here.  I’m always in a good mood when I return.

But today I’m thinking of another time.  After dinner tonight I wasn’t ready to turn in so I started walking up one of the paths leading up from Stechelberg.  I passed several bubbling, chattering streams and was reminded of a hike I did years ago in the Safinenthal which leads away from Gimmlwald and wraps around toward the Schilthorn.  It was one of my earliest years of guiding, perhaps my third year.  It was a late spring tour and the sun was bright and hot as I trudged along the single track path surrounded by alpine

forests.  I think there had been lots of snow that winter because many patches remained and gained in area as I climbed up the valley floor.  I know it was spring because the snow was rapidly melting all around as I hiked.  The bright sun glittered and danced on the rushing streams that collected the runoff and glinted off the remaining ice.  I remember distinctly the dazzling visual experience but also the aural component as well.

While enjoying both sight and sound I had one of those ‘aha” moments in life when something you’ve learned or read suddenly comes into clear focus.  I had developed my talk on Baroque art for the Rome night walk and had shared with several groups the importance of light, action, and motion in that era.  I’d often made the point that moving water, in the form of Rome’s many fountains, was a perfect medium for Baroque - an artistic creation that actually moved, reflecting light in multiple varieties.  I certainly understood the concept I was explaining

and the fountains were visible evidence of the theory.  But walking along that sunny spring day, I suddenly realized I was having a fundamentally Baroque experience.  The melting water, the chattering rivulets, the glinting sun, and the sparkling ice all combined to make a natural, almost symphonic, “bell composto” for me.  The uniquely Baroque method of combining many mediums into a single, beautiful expression was happening - in nature.  I remember what a thrilling moment it was.  Not only did my understanding of Baroque deepen in that

moment, but a sense of my ability to make intuitive leaps of comprehension about art also bumped up a notch.  It was one of those early moments when words couldn't express how lucky I felt to have my job.

Many years have passed and as in all endeavors in life, the ability to get truly excited about various aspects of my work has diminished and cynicism is a bigger obstacle.  But I’m happy to say I’m still quite satisfied and content, and though rarer, I can still be moved by experiences along the road - even familiar sections.  I had a glimpse of that walking along after dinner.  Nostalgia yes, but also the fullness of the mountain air and the sound of rushing water and tinkling cowbells working their timeless magic.

Reid's Speaking Schedule & Annual Potluck

For you local Imprint fans, I have several speaking engagements scheduled in the next couple months.  At the Savvy Traveler in Edmonds I'll be extolling the virtues of New Zealand (10AM) and Bali (1PM) on Sat. Nov 2 and India (10AM) and Thailand (1PM) on Nov. 23.  I'll again be taking virtual travelers to Bali on Tues. Nov. 12 and Thailand Tues. Dec. 10 - both at Wide World Books and Maps in Wallingford.  For anyone considering any of these destinations, its a great opportunity to see some images and get a taste for these intriguing countries.  And I love seeing familiar faces in the audience. In January we'll be holding our annual Imprint Tours Alumni Potluck Dinner: Sat Jan. 18 starting at 5:30PM.  Its a great gathering of "intentional" travelers - a time to reminisce, share photos, and talk about the next great Imprint adventure.  There is a mailing list for the potluck - if you didn't get an invite last year and want to be added, please contact me at info@imprinttours.com.  I hope to see lots of you there.  Reid

Best Day Ever in the Alps?

I am the luckiest person I know. I’m talking about my jobs working for Rick Steves and running Imprint Tours. I can hardly believe my good fortune. Of course there are rough days, challenging tour members, highly stressful disruptions, and occasional disasters that make me want to pull my hair out. But quite regularly all the variables align to present me with a perfect tour or a perfect day. And in those moments I have to pinch myself to be sure its real. Such a confluence of factors occurred when I took a group to the Berner Oberland in Switzerland. Of course I’ve been there scores of times and often the weather is clear and the hiking glorious. But I don’t believe I’ve ever had a more perfect day than this past July.I was running a Family Friendly Europe tour and, for my first time, staying in Wengen on the eastern shelf of the Lauterbrunnen valley. I have always stayed down in the valley or in Gimmelwald and Murren on the western side.

I had never realized what a stunning view one has of the Jungfrau from this vantage point. After dinner on our first night we all gathered in the gloaming light of dusk to listen to some live Swiss music. I must confess I usually find these music evenings to be a bit on the hokey side. But this time it was truly magical. The mighty Jungfrau shown brightly in the last rays of the sun as backdrop to our alphorn and yodeling serenade. My group was enthusiastic and there were many volunteers to try the alphorn and then yodeling. There was laughter and enthusiastic applause, and the group yodeling didn’t sound half bad. The brisk, utterly fresh mountain air seemed to energize everyone. The music ended as the last light of the day faded. But the evening continued for me and a handful of tour members. Our hotel has a piano lounge and the pianist was brilliant. We must have sat there another hour listening to him play a string of popular songs. It became a game to identify each song, only resorting to our smart phones when we just couldn’t quite come up with the tune. What a great evening - and that was not the day I started out to write about.

After a great night’s sleep in the cool mountain air, serenaded by the sound of rushing water and distant cowbells, we rounded up our group post-breakfast for our hiking excursion. It was one of those rare, perfect weather days in the Alps. Not just sunny and clear, but almost none of the usually ubiquitous haze that characterizes the region.

It was stunning! We took the group up the Mannlichen lift for the Kleine Scheidegg hike. I have never done this hike that it was not enjoyable but it was particularly rewarding this time as the assistant guide was Travis Smith, son of my friend and boss, Steve Smith. Over the years, the opportunity to work with apprentice guides has been one of the special rewards of my job. I have known

Travis since he was a young boy, but it was a great pleasures to get to know him as a young man. He progressed quickly from being the son of my friend, to being my friend. So the hike from Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg was memorable - great weather, stunning vistas and clear air, and great conversation. At Kleine Scheidegg we grabbed a quick bite and

then gathered the group and gave instructions for getting back to Wengen. Travis had told me about a hike he had done with another colleague. I was anxious to see a new route so we headed out with two tour members. The trail swings wide out from the usual upper trail, eventually skirting the cliff top above Trummelbach Falls. The views were spectacular, enhanced by the shear drop inches from our toes. It required steely nerves to belly up to the retaining fence - but what a reward. We all took pictures, but this was one of those vertiginous vantages that is truly spectacular to experience but can’t be captured in a photo. It took about 2.5 hours to wind all the way back into Wengen. We were footsore, hot, sweaty, tired, and ready for a frothy beer.

I grabbed a couple of cold ones at the Coop Grocery and retreated to my room for a shower and power nap. Then I joined Travis on his Jungfrau-facing balcony. We drank our beers and reveled in the outstanding day we’d had, all the while the western horizon fairly filled by the looming massif. By the time we’d finished our brews the light was beginning to fail. Unusually, the air was still quite absent any haze or clouds so we decided to tarry, hoping to see alpenglow reflected on the glacier-clad peak. Our patience was rewarded as the great mountain, bathed in reddish-gold, seemed to fill the entire sky as the foreground valley receded into shadow. We snapped pictures every few minutes

and remarked repeatedly on the extraordinary confluence of good fortune and perfect conditions experienced on the day. I’m afraid the words “Wow”, “Awesome”, “Amazing”, “Look at that Alpenglow now” and “What a day” got seriously over-used. In the final analysis, the cultural highlights of Europe, wondrous though they are, can’t hold a candle to the magnificence of nature. What a show! What a job!