For you local Imprint fans, I have several speaking engagements scheduled in the next couple months. At the Savvy Traveler in Edmonds I'll be extolling the virtues of New Zealand (10AM) and Bali (1PM) on Sat. Nov 2 and India (10AM) and Thailand (1PM) on Nov. 23. I'll again be taking virtual travelers to Bali on Tues. Nov. 12 and Thailand Tues. Dec. 10 - both at Wide World Books and Maps in Wallingford. For anyone considering any of these destinations, its a great opportunity to see some images and get a taste for these intriguing countries. And I love seeing familiar faces in the audience. In January we'll be holding our annual Imprint Tours Alumni Potluck Dinner: Sat Jan. 18 starting at 5:30PM. Its a great gathering of "intentional" travelers - a time to reminisce, share photos, and talk about the next great Imprint adventure. There is a mailing list for the potluck - if you didn't get an invite last year and want to be added, please contact me at info@imprinttours.com. I hope to see lots of you there. Reid
Best Day Ever in the Alps?
I am the luckiest person I know. I’m talking about my jobs working for Rick Steves and running Imprint Tours. I can hardly believe my good fortune. Of course there are rough days, challenging tour members, highly stressful disruptions, and occasional disasters that make me want to pull my hair out. But quite regularly all the variables align to present me with a perfect tour or a perfect day. And in those moments I have to pinch myself to be sure its real. Such a confluence of factors occurred when I took a group to the Berner Oberland in Switzerland. Of course I’ve been there scores of times and often the weather is clear and the hiking glorious. But I don’t believe I’ve ever had a more perfect day than this past July.I was running a Family Friendly Europe tour and, for my first time, staying in Wengen on the eastern shelf of the Lauterbrunnen valley. I have always stayed down in the valley or in Gimmelwald and Murren on the western side.
I had never realized what a stunning view one has of the Jungfrau from this vantage point. After dinner on our first night we all gathered in the gloaming light of dusk to listen to some live Swiss music. I must confess I usually find these music evenings to be a bit on the hokey side. But this time it was truly magical. The mighty Jungfrau shown brightly in the last rays of the sun as backdrop to our alphorn and yodeling serenade. My group was enthusiastic and there were many volunteers to try the alphorn and then yodeling. There was laughter and enthusiastic applause, and the group yodeling didn’t sound half bad. The brisk, utterly fresh mountain air seemed to energize everyone. The music ended as the last light of the day faded. But the evening continued for me and a handful of tour members. Our hotel has a piano lounge and the pianist was brilliant. We must have sat there another hour listening to him play a string of popular songs. It became a game to identify each song, only resorting to our smart phones when we just couldn’t quite come up with the tune. What a great evening - and that was not the day I started out to write about.
After a great night’s sleep in the cool mountain air, serenaded by the sound of rushing water and distant cowbells, we rounded up our group post-breakfast for our hiking excursion. It was one of those rare, perfect weather days in the Alps. Not just sunny and clear, but almost none of the usually ubiquitous haze that characterizes the region.
It was stunning! We took the group up the Mannlichen lift for the Kleine Scheidegg hike. I have never done this hike that it was not enjoyable but it was particularly rewarding this time as the assistant guide was Travis Smith, son of my friend and boss, Steve Smith. Over the years, the opportunity to work with apprentice guides has been one of the special rewards of my job. I have known
Travis since he was a young boy, but it was a great pleasures to get to know him as a young man. He progressed quickly from being the son of my friend, to being my friend. So the hike from Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg was memorable - great weather, stunning vistas and clear air, and great conversation. At Kleine Scheidegg we grabbed a quick bite and
then gathered the group and gave instructions for getting back to Wengen. Travis had told me about a hike he had done with another colleague. I was anxious to see a new route so we headed out with two tour members. The trail swings wide out from the usual upper trail, eventually skirting the cliff top above Trummelbach Falls. The views were spectacular, enhanced by the shear drop inches from our toes. It required steely nerves to belly up to the retaining fence - but what a reward. We all took pictures, but this was one of those vertiginous vantages that is truly spectacular to experience but can’t be captured in a photo. It took about 2.5 hours to wind all the way back into Wengen. We were footsore, hot, sweaty, tired, and ready for a frothy beer.
I grabbed a couple of cold ones at the Coop Grocery and retreated to my room for a shower and power nap. Then I joined Travis on his Jungfrau-facing balcony. We drank our beers and reveled in the outstanding day we’d had, all the while the western horizon fairly filled by the looming massif. By the time we’d finished our brews the light was beginning to fail. Unusually, the air was still quite absent any haze or clouds so we decided to tarry, hoping to see alpenglow reflected on the glacier-clad peak. Our patience was rewarded as the great mountain, bathed in reddish-gold, seemed to fill the entire sky as the foreground valley receded into shadow. We snapped pictures every few minutes
and remarked repeatedly on the extraordinary confluence of good fortune and perfect conditions experienced on the day. I’m afraid the words “Wow”, “Awesome”, “Amazing”, “Look at that Alpenglow now” and “What a day” got seriously over-used. In the final analysis, the cultural highlights of Europe, wondrous though they are, can’t hold a candle to the magnificence of nature. What a show! What a job!
Vietnam Anyone?
Hello Imprint fans and followers. For those of you who've followed my blogs this year you know I've felt a powerful draw to Vietnam. Over the summer I was in negotiations with my travel partners in Southeast Asia, creating an itinerary for an Imprint Tour. We've hammered out the outlines of a tour and I'm ready to share it with all of you. There is still work to be done. I would like to have an optional extension and I'm still working that out. I won't be able to announce a price for the tour until I get back to the office in mid-Oct (I'm currently underway in Europe). But I wanted you all to see what we've created - and I'd love your feedback. The projected time for the tour is early January 2015.
Day 1 Hanoi (Lan Vien hotel)
The tour starts around 1 pm. We'll meet our Vietnamese escort and have our get acquainted meeting before heading out to explore the city. We'll visit the major sights, including the Temple of Literature, the Hoa Lo Prison (the ‘Hanoi Hilton’), and explore the Old Quarter. We'll conclude our day with dinner together at one of Hanoi's fantastic restaurants.
Day 2 Hanoi – Tam Coc Excursion
We'll take a 2 hour drive from the hectic capital to the province of Ninh Binh. Our first destination is Hoa Lu, the capital of Vietnam during the 10th century Dinh and Le Dynasties. The ancient citadel once covered 300 hectares of land but today is mostly ruins. Our guide will take us through the Dinh & Le Temples, restored in the 17th century. Then we'll pick up bikes for a 1-hour ride through the stunning countryside before arriving at Tam Coc for lunch at a local restaurant. Then its on to Tam Coc (which translates as "Three Caves"). The area is often referred to as the Halong Bay of the land due to its spectacular towering karst scenery. Here we board boats for a 2-hour journey past local villages, rice paddies, and through caves in the Red River Delta.
Day 3 Halong Bay
You can leave luggage behind at our Hanoi hotel and pack a smaller overnight bag. Its a three-hour drive to Bai Chay (Halong City West) where we board our boat. We'll enjoy a seafood lunch and dinner as well as spending a night on board. Halong Bay is truly one of Vietnam's most impressive scenic sights. Picturesque sailing junks navigating the 3000+ limestone islands and the soaring karsts jutting dramatically from the bay are nothing short of spectacular. We'll visit a cave, enjoy a swim, and photograph an incredible sunset. There will also be an option for doing some kayaking.
Day 4 Halong – Hanoi – overnight train to Quang Binh
After breakfast, we continue cruising Halong Bay for the morning, then return to port and drive back to Hanoi. Arriving back in the capital, we check in our day use rooms until leaving for our overnight train in the evening. We have a free afternoon to wander and enjoy some of the city’s other attractions. This evening we board the Reunification Express for our overnight train journey down to Quang Binh. We travel in 'soft sleeper' class, compartments for four people.
Day 5 Quang Binh – Phong Nha – Hue (Mondial Hue Hotel)
After disembarking from the train (around 8 am), our escort will take us out for a local breakfast before taking a short spell to refresh in our day use rooms before boarding a boat and cruising along the Son river to Phong Nha Cave. We'll have ample time to explore by boat and on foot. We then take a bus directly to Hue.
Day 6 Hue
Today we take a boat along the Perfume River to the famous Thien Mu Pagoda, allowing us to see life on the river. We also visit the mausoleum of Tu Duc, one of the most extravagant tombs of the Nguyen emperors who ruled Vietnam from Hue between 1802 and 1945. This afternoon, we take a tour of the Citadel. Its 6 miles of walls enclose palaces and halls of the Mandarins, and the remains of the Forbidden Purple City.
Day 7 Hue – Danang – Hoi An (Hoian Hotel)
This morning, we embark on one of Vietnam's most spectacular road trips, crossing over the Hai Van Pass to Danang. Our ultimate destination is Hoi An, originally a Cham port town influenced down the centuries by traders from many cultures. Today it is a delightful town with an air of liveliness about it. The tranquility and charm of Hoi An, coupled with its Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese and European architectural influences architecture, makes it one of the most delightful places to visit in Vietnam. This afternoon we'll take an introductory walking tour.
Day 8 Hoi An
This morning, we visit My Son, the Cham civilisation's spiritual home, where Cham kings were buried since the fourth century. The site boasts a number of interesting stone towers, tombs, and sanctuaries. The afternoon you'll have free time to wander the thriving riverside market, a good place to buy silk that can be made up into fine clothing by Hai An's famous tailors.
Day 9 Hoi An
We enjoy a free day to make the most of delightful Hoi An and its surrounding areas. We'll organize an optional day trip to Cham island with snorkeling and a seafood lunch.
Day 10 Hoi An- Ho Chi Minh City (Asian Ruby 1 Hotel)
This morning we depart Hoi An for Danang, where we board our flight to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City). Saigon is the largest city in Vietnam and the nation's economic capital. Upon arrival a short city tour takes us to the Reunification Palace, the War Remnants Museum and Notre Dame Cathedral, and allows us to admire the beautiful French colonial architecture
Day 11 Ho Chi Minh City
This morning, we head out of town to visit the Cu Chi Tunnels. Cu Chi is actually the name of the district which covers an extensive underground network (approximately 200 kilometres) of tunnels dug initially by the Viet Minh and later expanded by the Viet Cong. The tunnels contained hospitals, plus accommodation and schools, and were used extensively for refuge and storage and also utilized as a military base for the Viet Cong. The 1968 Tet Offensive was launched from Cu Chi. A section of the tunnels has been widened to allow tourists to get a feel for what the life underground must have been like. The afternoon is left free for your own explorations of Saigon.
Day 12 Mekong Delta
We depart Saigon by road, our destination the agriculturally rich Mekong Delta and the town of Cai Be, where we begin a Mekong boat trip that takes us past a floating market. The scenery here is impressive, with many great 'photo ops' along the way. We stop to visit typical riverside villages, where we have a chance to meet the people, learn about the local commercial enterprises, and sample various tropical fruits. Then we'll continue on to our overnight homestay, located on an island in the Mekong River. You'll have the opportunity to take a bike ride around the island or relax in a hammock and soak up the local way of life before enjoying dinner cooked by a local family.
Day 13 Ho Chi Minh City
Today we take an early morning walk through the island’s orchards and navigate our way through the narrow canals in a traditional wooden sampan. We then take another boat from our homestay island to rendezvous with our vehicle and return to Saigon. On the way we'll stop to visit the vibrant and colourful Cao Dai temple. Indigenous to Vietnam, Caodaism is a unique fusion of the best from Taoism, Buddhism, Hinduism, Christianity, Islam and Confucianism. This evening we'll close out our tour with a farewell dinner at one of Saogon's many memorable eating spots.
Day 14 Ho Chi Minh City
Tour finishes after breakfast.
The Louvre
Paris, the City of Lights. It seems imminently appropriate to finish the 21-day Best of Europe tour here. I am ever so grateful that I’ve been able to do many itineraries for Europe Through the Back Door, but this tour seems the most complete, the most perfectly laid out, the best suited to my passions and strengths. And I love finishing in Paris.
Even though it is a busy, urban environment the city is tempered by its wide boulevards; the many large parks; the pedestrian-friendly, wide, tree-lined sidewalks; its unparalleled public art and architecture; bustling café culture; and polite citizens all make it a pleasure to return over and over. However, despite my fondness for its many virtues, some things have become increasingly complicated here. I’m thinking primarily of the Louvre. It is
approaching, if not surpassing, the Vatican Musuem in Rome for institutional volitility and hassle. The Vatican has always been difficult with its willy-nilly layout and refusal to limit visitors. But the Louvre is out-hassling their Roman cousins when it comes to arbitrary rule changes, security and entrance closures, and heavy-handed requirements. What should be enjoyed as a jaw-dropping summery of western art and the glory of French culture now ends up being as notable for the great difficulty in navigating its shifting rules and capricious patterns. As usual, this grouse is coming from a guide’s perspective and it is my firm belief that the average tourist still finds the museum spectacular and rewarding. And I cannot express enough praise for our intrepid Parisian guides who still make our visits work despite whatever obstacles-de-jour we encounter. It is always a great visit, full of enlightenment, summary knowledge, and the perfect finale to three weeks of European culture. I just wish it could be simpler and easier. As it is, I now have to warn my tour members ahead of time to pack extra patience and flexibility. On my most recent visit I thought we were in great shape as we arrived early, got our audio guides kitted out before any other groups, met with one of our local guides while the second actually braved the messy process of getting our entrance paid - a three-ring circus that has sometimes sucked up a good 30 minutes in recent years. Our only difficulty was the fact that the restrooms, as always, did not open until almost 9:00AM - delaying our using them and therefore our entering of the museum. But our luck ran out there.
For some unexplained reason, the underground security entrance we’ve used for two decades was closed. We had to race other groups up into the courtyard and enter the pyramid above ground - the primary entrance and by far the most crowded. Again, kudos to our guide Elizabeth for sweet talking the guard on duty into allowing us into an employee entrance where they hand-checked our bags. Disaster averted, but panting from the mad dash, we entered the museum only 45 minutes after our arrival - a time I consider to be a victory in recent years. I must confess the visit went very smoothly thereafter and we even visited Mona Lisa with a relatively small crowd of admirers instead of the usual seething throng, complete with pickpockets. We had Michelangelo’s statues to ourselves, not much competition with the other Leonardos, and moderate group juggling in front of the French masters.
Only the Winged Victory of Samothrace and the Venus d’ Milo were swamped by the usual sea of admirers. Elizabeth gave us an added bonus of the Richaleau wing and a quickie glimpse of the Winged Bulls from the Citadel of Sargon (massive at 12 feet tall and 15 wide) and the Stele of Hammurabi (first written law) - two sights I have always loved and regretted we don’t get to see on the tour. As much as I encourage my travelers to stay inside and explore on their own, typically they are exhausted in mind, spirit, and body after 2+ hours of the ordeal that the Louvre has become. What a shame.
I am exhausted when we finish and I’m not even doing the guiding. Oh well, restoration is easily at hand in the form of a café lunch or Champs du Mar picnic. Dispite the hassles of the Louvre it remains an inspiring finale to the tour and a highlight of this world class city.
Vinci Visit
In the last couple years of guiding, I’ve splashed out a bit from old routines. Years ago I used to relish trying new things on tour but in recent years I’d gotten a bit “sedentary”. So this year I decided to again try something new. I’d heard that tiny hill-top Vinci, birthplace of Leonardo, was a worthwhile stop, so I took a group there. It was, as advertised, a very worthy stop. As we climbed up the winding road we were rewarded with views of the northern Tuscan countryside - vineyards, olive groves, and wheat fields.
The ancient village of Vinci spills down a hillside, the top dominated by a tower and church. I walked my group into the empty courtyard beneath the tower to be rewarded with an impressive and large 3-D sculpture of Leonardo’s Vitruvian Man. It turns out the tower is half of the excellent little LdV museum (which should, in point of fact, be called the Leonardo and Bruneleschi Museum). Inside one finds small scale models of the many machines illustrated in LdV's various notebooks; a couple large-scale working models; rooms with hands-on displays of his experiments with locomotion, light, water, and propulsion; and a film about the creation of his various paintings.
But the highlight for me was a huge scale model of the crane designed by Brunelleschi to place the final stones into the lantern atop his magnificent dome in Florence. For years I’ve talked about Bruneleschi’s creativity - inventing the right machinery to solve engineering problems as needed. Here was an excellent visual, made even more meaningful by a computer- generated AV program showing how the crane was utilized.
The other half of the museum is nearly as impressive. It boasts several rooms with models and displays of more of LdV’s and Brunelleschi’s respective genius.
Here there are more AV programs demonstrating how the various machines were designed, constructed, and used. A couple hours spent in the museum with the helpful English translation cards and AV displays is the perfect complement to a visit to Florence and a guide’s explanation of the building of the dome or about LdV’s insatiable curiosity and creativity.
As a bonus, the town itself has that pre-commercial-tourism, unspoiled feeling. Prices are noticeably lower than tourist towns and people are friendly and unguarded. Lastly, there is a very nice replica of the famous equestrian statue LdV designed for the Duke of Sforza. For anyone with time and traveling by car I give Vinci two thumbs up. Its definitely worth a half day visit.
The New Rijksmuseum
I’m sitting in the newly remodeled Rijksmuseum lobby for the third time this year. The museum, reopened this spring after a massive multiyear remodel, is wonderful. The collection is beautifully displayed with paintings on the walls and other objects and artifacts in perfectly illuminated glass cases. However, what I’m most impressed by are the changes to the building itself.
They have enclosed the sizable inner courtyards with glass ceilings, giving them an atrium feel. It puts me in mind of the interior courtyards of Paris’s Louvre (ala I.M. Pei). The new Rijks gives one the same feeling - tons of natural light, big open functional spaces for the entrance of the museum (important as crowds have been tremendous this year) and a lovely modern café complete with free wifi. I’m here in the café now enjoying the always good Dutch coffee while admiring a Henri Moore statue. It reminds me of a section of his “Vertabre” in downtown Seattle, only this one is bright white - quite striking.
Outside in the gardens there are more Moores (no pun) this time classic bronze. The gardens also sport fancy new fountains, into which tourists can place themselves if their timing it right. Its been quite warm here this summer, so I guess no one minds if they mistime their jump and get sprayed. All in all I’d say the makeover is a big success. Functional, attractive, and efficient - a reflection of the Dutch character and a fitting venue for the art of the Dutch Golden Age.
Beautiful Bali Photography Tour 2014
Attention Shutterbugs! How often have you been taking photos and then been forced to leave early because your travel partners were impatient? Or perhaps you’ve missed the perfect light because the tour bus was leaving? Suffer no more and join us on the Beautiful Bali Photography Tour. Next July we set off for the beautiful and diverse island of Bali, a photographer’s dream destination. Explore this visually compelling island and have your creativity inspired. Shoot a beach sunrise, traditional dance drama, temple festival, rice paddy terrace, World Heritage Sight or ancient monument, pagoda-like temples in their sunset glory, or the cloud-shrouded mountains, volcanic calderas, and lakes in this target-rich environment. 
This tour combines the well-established Imprint Tours’ itinerary with photographic talks and workshops conducted by professional photographer Patricia Ridenour. An internationally published, award winning photographer, Patricia’s creative spirit and instruction have inspired students at Photography Center Northwest for 20 years. She and Julie Coen have conducted travel photography tours with Rick Steves’ Europe Through the Back Door and she has taught Digital Photo Photography seminars at the Edmonds Travel Center.
Whenever possible, the itinerary is scheduled to maximize the best photographic conditions. Instruction 
will be coordinated with the sights and events where they are most applicable. Teaching topics include night photography, composition and using color, shutter manipulation for action, light usage in portraiture and landscapes, and more. Patricia will also provide guidance for managing challenging conditions and individual feedback will be available throughout the tour. Upgrade your technical skills to enhance your shooting and bring home delightful photographic memories of your journey.
While photography is the focus of the tour, we are very aware that not everyone will prioritize photography. We welcome “non-photographic” spouses, travel 
partners, friends, and anyone who has been waiting for an opportunity to visit this amazing place. We have given careful consideration to accommodating you travelers as well.
All the basic information needed for signing up is found on the website. Please read the Terms and Conditions page before sending in your Registration. http://imprinttours.com For your consideration we’re including a detailed tour description below. We hope to see you in Bali next summer! For further details or any questions please feel free to contact us directly. info@imprinttours.com
Day 1 Sanur - Welcome meeting; dinner
Sanur is Bali’s “other” beach resort. Less famous than Kuta, Legian, and Seminyak, it is absent the “scene” of throbbing discos, Starbucks, and designer shopping. This is a more peaceful, and in our minds, more authentic slice of Balinese beach culture, complete with fantastic sunrises over the sea. We’ll get acquainted and have dinner together in a local restaurant.
Day 2 Sanur - Barong Dance; Bukit Penninsula: Ulu Watu temple, Kecak/Fire Dance
Barong and Kecak dances are two of Bali’s most famous and flamboyant performances. Barong is a classic good versus evil story with the most spectacular costumes of any Balinese dance. Kecak derives its name from the hypnotic chattering percussion of an all-male chorus (meant to imitate monkeys) which creates an astonishing accompaniment to this dance drama. Ulu Watu, one of Bali’s 7 directional temples (protecting the island) has by far the most dramatic venue, perched at the tip of converging, 
sheer, 200+ foot cliffs with the sea crashing below. We’ll enjoy a sunset view of the temple as a backdrop to the Kecak performance. We'll close out our day with a seaside, fresh fish BBQ at Jimbaran Beach with the sounds of the surf to accompany our dinner.
Day 3 Jogjakarta, Java - flight to Jogja; Becak tour; Prambanan, Ramayana performance
Our becaks (pedal rickshaws) will transport us all around the captivating city of Jogja. Using the becaks allows us to support the local economy directly and creates an opportunity to engage one of the locals in conversation. We’ll visit the abandoned but now restored Taman Sari water palace and the fascinating subterranean passages of the mosque. As Jogja is a renowned center for Batik, we’ll round out our morning with a demonstration. After some down time to relax by our hotel pool we’ll visit nearby Prambanan, a World Heritage site. This 9th century Hindu temple complex is an impressive example of ancient Hindu architecture. We’ll visit late in the afternoon for best light. Dinner is Rijstafel – classic Indonesian buffet. Afterward we will return to the site for the world-famous Ramayana Ballet performance. Enjoying the colorful pageantry of this Hindu epic with the illuminated towers of Prambanan as backdrop is an experience not to be missed.
Day 4 Jogjakarta - Free morning; Borobodur excursion
For your free morning we can help arrange an optional cooking or silver jewelry making class. Borobodur, another World Heritage site, is an 8th century Buddhist temple mountain, and Indonesia’s most impressive ancient site. Set in a lush green valley, the concentric layers represent a model of the 
Buddhist cosmos. In the past pilgrims circumambulated each level, tracing the mystical theology of Buddhism in the bas relief panels along the way. Multiple, lattice-work stupas containing statues of the Buddha adorn the upper levels and the views are magnificent. Again, we are choosing to visit in late afternoon to maximize photographic opportunities.
Day 5 Sanur - Kratan excursion; free afternoon; evening flight back to Bali
This morning we’ll visit the Royal Kraton, Jogja’s royal palace complex. Not only will we photograph beautifully carved and painted pavilions, statuary, ceremonial drums, and colorfully-garbed attendants but we’ll also enjoy shooting a gamelan orchestra and traditional dancers and/or puppeteers up close. You can fill out your free afternoon time with Jogja’s plentiful shopping. An evening flight takes us back to Bali and Sanur.
Day 6 Amed - Kertha Gosa; Lunch at Kbun Impian; coast drive
Kertha Gosa is the 18th century royal palace complex at Semarapura, one time capital of the Dewa Agung dynasty. The pavilion of its Hall of Justice is creatively and ominously painted with scenes of punishments for various crimes. We’ll continue along the southeast coast to Kbun Impian, a hidden jewel we discovered on past travels. Run by friendly, Aussie John and Balinese wife Wayan, it is a friendly oasis of hospitality on the eastern 
coast. We can swim in the seaside pool or relax in the gazebo. After lunch we’ll have a performance of traditional Balinese dance by local students rather than paid professionals with an opportunity for interaction following. The drive north to Amed is one of the most spectacular in Bali, winding through traditional, mostly untouched villages with stunning views of the sea and beaches lined with colorful outrigger boats. We'll have dinner together at our seaside resort.
Day 7 Amed - All-day boat excursion.
We’ve hired the 60-foot sailing yacht Condor for our private snorkeling/swimming excursion. Amed has Bali’s premier underwater sights with some of the island’s best coral reefs and tropical fish. We’ll visit the sunken shipwreck Liberty, a favorite dive destination. Past tour members have described snorkeling in the bubbles from divers below as “swimming in champagne.” Lunch and snorkeling equipment will be provided and our entire cruise will be watched over by Gunung Agung, Bali’s highest, most sacred mountain.
Day 8 Amed - Free Day
Enjoy the beach, the pool, or organize your own excursion. Optional sunset happy hour at Waeni’s Sunset View with great views of Gunung Agung.
Day 9 Batur - Tirta Gangga; Pura Besakih temple; rice terraces
Tirta Gangga is a functioning water palace. Our tour will stop for photographing the whimsical stone statuary and water features. Enjoy a refreshing swim and the best coconut cream pie in Indonesia. Our included lunch stop boasts one of those spectacular, emerald-green rice 
terrace vistas and a buffet of Balinese specialties. Next it is on to Pura Besakih, the most sacred temple complex in Bali. Upon arrival at Mt Batur, we’ll enjoy one of Bali’s most spectacular sunsets from the terrace of our caldera-clinging hotel. Mt Batur is an active volcano with a spectacular verdant caldera that contains a steaming lava dome and picturesque lake within.
Day 10 Ubud - Sunrise excursion; Penulisan viewpoint; Tirta Empul; Gunung Kawi
For those intrepid travelers among us a pre-dawn caldera excursion and hike up the lava dome (Gunung Batur) rewards us with Bali’s premier sunrise experience. A guide will chaperone us on the hour-long climb. Hot beverages are available while we await the sun’s appearance. When the entire group is ready to depart we’ll drive to Penulisan viewpoint for spectacular views across the expanse of the caldera to Bali’s three great 
volcanic peaks: Batur, Abang, and Agung. After lunch at a view restaurant we’ll head south toward Ubud. Along the way we’ll engage in an outstanding, genuine, cultural connection experience. Prepared and instructed by our guide, we’ll participate in a water purification ceremony at Tirta Empul. Our day will end with a pre-dusk visit to Gunung Kawi, Bali’s most impressive and mystical ancient sight and our personal favorite. 
A short hike down into a lush, rice-terraced valley leads us to 1000-year old funerary monuments. The nine 7meter (23’) high candi (stone monuments) are carved from the solid rock cliff sides. The monuments are impressive, the venue stunning, and the gurgling stream running through adds to the sight’s mysticism.
Day 11 Ubud - Goa Gajah & Yeh Pulu
Goa Gajah is an 11th century cave temple, the exterior of which has been imaginatively carved as the face of a demon. Enter the demon’s mouth to access the temple recesses. Yeh Pulu is an intriguing, 14th century, carved cliff-face. Running about 80 feet along one side of a secluded valley, these evocative carvings are 500 years old and are often ours alone when we visit. Moreover, the carved wall ends at a sacred spring, attended by a 
solitary priest who offers blessings to all who seek them – a wonderful photo op. The rest of today is free to explore Ubud and its environs on your own. There is no shortage of activities. Options include white water rafting; trekking; cycling; art galleries; and multiple courses: cooking, painting, batik, meditation, offering making, Balinese dance, and more. Or relax by the pool and do nothing. In the evening you might chose to attend another of Bali’s many dance dramas.
Day 12 Ubud - Ulan Danu Bratan temple; Bali Botanical Gardens
After a free morning we’ll drive to Bali Botanical Garden. In addition to examples of the island’s flora it hosts Treetop Adventure ropes course (optional) for our more adventurous tour members. Nearby Lake Bratan is a picturesque, alpine lake surrounded by dark verdant mountains. Pura Ulan Danu Bratan is one the the island’s most photogenic temples. It rises from the lake, having been built on a tiny island. We’ll plan our visit for a late afternoon arrival, for optimum light. On our journey home, we’ll stop at Puri Taman Sari for a Balinese classic: a roasted suckling pig feast.
Day 13 Tanah Lot - craft village visits; Pasar Badung market; Tanah Lot; sunset happy hour; final dinner
The craft villages south of Ubud specialize in wood & stone carving and painting as well as handicrafts: masks, jewelry, glassworks, puppets, kites, and umbrellas. We’ll make 3 or 4 stops for shopping and photographing. Pasar Badung market in Denpasar is Bali’s largest with three chaotic stories of produce, spices, handicrafts, clothing, textiles, and even temple umbrellas. Tanah Lot is our final destination and Bali’s most photographed temple, built on a tidal 
island off the southwest coast. Multiple vantage points provide for great shots. Waves crash against rugged headlands providing a cacophonous yet rhythmic background. Supplicants in traditional temple garb, bearing vividly colorful offerings of flowers and fruits, add to the visual composition. Our hotel is located within the temple grounds providing ready and convenient access. We’ll have a final, sunset happy hour on the bluffs overlooking the temple before our final dinner together.
Day 14 tour over after breakfast
Staying on site at Tanah Lot allows the opportunity for early risers to enjoy the glorious, tourist-free sunrise at the temple. We’ll help with transport arrangements for anyone heading to the airport today (1 hour).
Additional events: Temple festivals and cremations are held regularly all over Bali. Foreign participants are not only allowed but welcomed. These unscheduled events are amazing cultural connection experiences. As the tour approaches we will endeavor to determine if there will be an event that we can add to the itinerary. If there is an opportunity we will make every effort to participate – all expenses covered by the tour.
Included: All breakfasts, 7 dinners, 4 lunches; AC transport (vans, minibuses, or bus); domestic flights (Bali-Jogja-Bali); 13 nights accommodation (all hotels include AC, private bath, and swimming pool*); all entrances: Borobudur, Prambanan, Taman Sari, Sumur Gumerling, Royal Kraton, Goa Gajah, Yeh Pulu, Gunung Kawi, Tirta Gangga, Tirta Empul, Taman Kertha Gosa, Bali Botanical Garden; Ulu Watu, Tanah Lot, Besakih, & Bratan temples; Amed boat/snorkeling excursion, (incl. snorkeling equipment); Batik demo, craft village & market visits; Kecak, Barong, & Ramayana performances.
Services of an Imprint tour director, a Balinese or Javanese escort/guide (for sight-seeing days), and a professional photographic instructor.
*except Lakeview Hotel at Mt Batur
Victoria Falls
Although I could hardly be more enthusiastic about taking our Imprint travelers on safari and introducing them to the world class city of Capetown, I am most excited about our final stop: magnificent Victoria Falls. I’m hoping everyone will save their energy for that final stop on our 2014 Southern Safaris tour. I wanted to see Victoria Falls 20 years ago on my first trip to Africa. But time and budget constraints and long distances from East Africa prevented it. I’ve often regretted not making it happen anyway. 
Now I’ll be fulfilling a lifelong dream. To stand at the edge of Mosi-oa-Tunya, “The Smoke that Thunders” and feel the tremendous power of nature. We’ll be staying on the Zimbabwe side of the falls and our first afternoon will be spent hiking the ridge trail just opposite the falls. Word has it we’ll be getting wet - really wet! It will be April, the end of the rainy season, and the falls will be at their most powerful flow. The deafening roar, the soaking mist, and the purely visceral response to so much raw energy will be amazing - exhilarating - maybe even transcendent! In the meantime I’ve been scouring the internet for inside clues on the best and secret places for viewing the falls and have found a few gems.By most measures, Victoria Falls are the largest in the world. With a width of 5604 feet and height of 354 feet, the falls create the largest sheet of falling water on the globe. The entire volume of the mighty Zambezi river flows over the edge, through a narrow defile, and then zig-zags its way through a series of gorges down river. At the second bend, the river has carved a pool called the Boiling Pot where the waters boil in enormous swirls and roiling turbulence. 
The famous Victoria Falls Bridge crosses from Zimbabwe to Zambia over the second gorge. During periods of high flow the mist cloud from the falls rises to over 1000 feet and can be seen for miles. At full moon, the spray creates a “moonbow” which we’ll be able to enjoy on our April 7 tour.
In addition to the falls themselves, Victoria Falls has become the adventure sports capital of the area. One can engage in canoe rides, white-water rafting, helicopter flights, zip-lining, bungy jumping, ultralite flights, and more. Nearby parks mean game viewing is an option and there are several close-up animal encounter excursions available. Finally, a vintage railroad connects the two countries for a unique train experience. Our groups should be kept plenty busy for our 2.5 days here.
As a bonus, for those with the time and inclination, it is possible to cross over to the Zambian side in order to see the falls from all angles. It also allows for a couple of iconic experiences: visiting Livingstone Island (right at the edge and in the middle of the falls) and having a meal or drink on the terrace of the Royal Livingstone Hotel - also perched on the edge. These are two bucket list items for me and I’m not going to miss them. Also, a trail on the Zambian side leads down to the aforementioned Boiling Pot.
For our August tour, the Victoria Falls experience will be quite different, but equally rewarding I think. 
As August is well into the dry season the volume of water will be reduced. As compensation, the photographic possibilities will be much better, as the spray will be reduced, allowing better visibility. Moreover, there should still be plenty of water in August. 
Another bonus activity available in August for the truly intrepid is a dip at the Devil’s Armchair, a lip of the falls that allows brave swimmers to swim right to the edge of falls and look over. Many travelers have posted the experience on Youtube. If you’re curious, have a look - Devil's Armchair.
Whether experienced in April, August, or any other time of year, there’s no doubt Victoria Falls is one of the great travel destinations in the world. I feel privileged to be able to take 3 groups of intrepid Imprint travelers to see them in 2014.
Cinque Terre 2013
I arrived in Monterosso, Cinque Terre with my Best of Europe group this weekend. The weather forecast was dismal but we arrived still hopeful that we would get some breaks from the predicted rain. As is my usual custom, and I think that of many colleagues, I took my group for dinner at the Belvedere Restaurant in Old Monterosso. This is my favorite meal on the tour - for several reasons. First, we’ve been underway for almost two weeks and everyone is starting to wear down. We’ve just finished with Venice, Florence, and Rome - the most intense 6 days of the tour - which adds to the fatigue. After a day’s drive and a lovely stop in Massa Maritima, my favorite undiscovered hill town, we are REALLY ready for our vacation from our vacation. So when we settle in for dinner, everyone is ready to let their hair down. Then there is the fact that the wine flows freely. The laughter and good cheer increases steadily throughout the evening. And finally, the dinner - the Amphora - is unique, completely Ligurian, and a true culinary experience. The name comes from the clay jar in which the dish is prepared. The original amphore were the clay vessels used by the ancient Greeks to transport olive oil. Here at the Belvedere, they use them to slow cook an amazing seafood stew. The broth liberally features white wine, garlic, and tomatoes (and many secret ingredients and spices I’m sure) and contains all the local seafood: lobster, octopus, cuttlefish, prawns, whitefish, mussels, and clams. The flavors meld together while simmering for hours. When its time to serve, the show begins. 
A large, shallow bowl is placed on a serving table. The waiter arrives with the amphora, carrying it with oven mitts. The foil top is removed and steam billows forth. He carefully pours about half the broth into the bowl, then tips up the amphora, shaking out the seafood treasure remaining. Half lobsters, whole giant prawns, chunks of whitefish, and cuttlefish tumble out with clams and mussels still in the shells and jiggling tentacles of octopi. Its an impressive display which often elicits applause from my groups. 
To complete the sensual cycle, everything is tender and delicious. The servers bring out thick slabs of garlic toast to go with the seafood. Its an amazing feast. Perhaps I forgot to mention everyone gets a plate of trofie (local pasta) with pesto. Liguria is the birthplace of the delicious green goodness and it is always excellent here. And though we are stuffed to capacity, everyone finds room for some of the best tiramisu in Italy. Mama Mia!
Cinque Terre - a Vanishing Resource?
Monterosso and Vernazza seem to have completely recovered from the disastrous 2011 flood. If one venture up the roads out of town there is still significant evidence of the destruction but the towns themselves seem fully recovered. Monterosso was already recovered last year. They have a new drainage system under the newly paved main street. The colorful shops and restaurants are all bustling and one would never know they’d been flooded. I visited Vernazza and she too is looking good. One new result of the flooding was the opening of a small passage under the rock upon which most of the town, including the picturesque castle, sits. 
It was always there, next to the original gelateria, a miniscule lagoon where waves pushed through a small opening, advancing 4 or 5 feet only. The flood scooped out the opening, which is now large enough to walk through, opening up onto a new, large stretch of pebbly beach on the other side.
We always think that geographic changes happen only gradually over long periods of time, but sometimes, major events make dramatic changes. And this is one of those. As if to balance accounts, the small sandy beach that used to exist next to the harbor is completely gone. It’s a good thing the towns have recovered completely because the crowds of day trippers have grown to immense proportions. Its quite a change from 17 years ago when I came the first time with a group. I’ve watched the changes with varying degrees of alarm over the years. I remember when the boat service was introduced about 12 or 13 years ago. The boats arrived from Porta Fino in the north and La Spezia in the south, the gangplank would drop in and a tsunami of several hundred tourists would sweep up from the harbor. In the next couple years Trenitalia added new trains to accommodate the increase in visitors. Since then trains have arrived at the top of the town disgorging hundreds of passengers where once a few dozen would have descended. The flood from above sometimes meets the wave from below. The infrastructure is stretched beyond capacity. Apart from primitive toilets at the station, none of these towns even has a public toilet. About 10 years ago I saw my first African refugee selling sunglasses in Vernazza. Nothing against the poor fellow trying to eek out a living, but it was a sad day on my calendar.And now a new scourge has arrived in this lovely corner of Italy. Cruise ships are now docking in Porta Venere near La Spezia. Yesterday I bought a train ticket in Monterosso. When I came out of the station office a train had arrived. The platform was a sea of people, punctuated every few feet with that ominous symbol of the cruise ship scourge: the number paddle. Group escorts always have a numbered, sometimes color-coded paddle which they hold up for their groups to gather around and be accounted for. Typically the groups are large, up to 50 per paddle. [Image below is only a single small cruise group]
It was a horrifying sight. In my view, cruise ship tourists are the locusts of tourism - arriving in swarms, picking clean the charm that once defined lovely destinations like Venice, Athens, and Barcelona. I spoke to several of the locals I know and the response is mixed. Of course, bigger numbers means more sales, more meals, more groceries, gelato, and coffee. But many were concerned about the local waters being over fished, the amount of trash being created, and especially about the chronic shortage of water and its corollary, the over-extension of the sewage system. I had myself noted the water from my bathroom sink had a yellowish tinge. Apparently, the older residents of the CT are having difficulty getting on and off trains whenever a cruise ship is in port. As so often happens in the world, this lovely resource is being loved to death. I am grateful that I came here in 1983 and experienced the five villages in their sleepy, traditional, unspoiled condition while hiking the trails in solitude. I am grateful I came here with Julie and my parents in 1992, when development had begun but was not yet rampant. We arrived without reservations and easily found a nice room in Riomaggiore. Julie and I had dinner on the single balcony table of the Belforte overlooking Vernazza’s breakwater. I’m ever so grateful the early years of tours here were still absent the worst excesses of commercial tourism. And I’m most grateful that a great majority of you, my readers that have been here with me, experienced the CT when it was still uncrowded and as yet unspoiled. Don’t get me wrong. It is still a beautiful place and worth visiting. My group had a marvelous time - we did get the hoped for sunshine and people were nearly euphoric as we gathered for happy hour. But now one must seek out the hidden and quiet corners of the CT to enjoy it. And those gems do exist. Climbing high up in each village to visit its cemetery; the convent church high above Monterosso; the upper trail, for those hardy and fit, is still largely untrammeled. For my groups I now give away my long held secret: the hike from Monterosso to Levanto is every bit as lovely as any in the CT, but much less crowded. A visit to the CT is now like any other major tourist destination. It is still enjoyable but one has to work hard to uncover the essence of the place, now veiled by commercial tourism. Most of you know I like to refer to the secret unspoiled places of the world as “Behind the Curtain”. The curtain that has descended on the CT has become thick, blocking out much light. If will be my job going forward to investigate deeper and further to find those “behind the curtain” jewels to make the CT a worthwhile destination for the future.