I find myself in familiar territory - waiting at an international departure gate at Seatac airport. Once upon a time the sights, sounds, and smells of an airport got me excited, stirring my sense of adventure. Nowadays this moment brings a relaxed state of calm. I know, for better or for worse, I have done all I can to prepare for the adventure before me, in this case, Imprint’s second Thailand tour. The last few weeks have been a great workout for both the left and right side of my brain. Time since the holidays has been heady with discovery and satisfying with the ticking off of preparatory tasks. I’ve been basically ready for this tour for several months. But on the last few Imprint tours I’ve found the tour can be improved by two things: scouring all sources of travel information for creative ways to add value to the tour and going over the logistics with a fine tooth comb to make sure no details are left to chance. Satisfying my creative right brain has consisted of perusing guidebooks and searching travel websites, bulletin boards, and rating sites. What a marvelous world of accessible information we live in. Although I know all the highlights and major pitfalls of all our tour stops, one can always learn about new angles and even the occasional new attraction. For example, for the tour I’m embarking upon, Thailand, I learned about a remote, more authentic floating village one can visit near Siem Reap and where the best temple view restaurants can be found in Ayutthaya (a new addition to this tour). At the same time I learned various bits of information to add to my logistical notes, keeping my left brained need for organization busy and content. New operating hours for a sight, a reminder to talk to our Thai escort about timing issues on a given day, or getting a restaurant phone number updated can make a real difference in the smooth execution of a tour. I love dotting these I’s and I like the feeling I’m providing the best experience possible for our clients. Creating and executing a tour is like a big, complicated jigsaw puzzle. Challenging and even intimidating at the beginning but immanently satisfying as the pieces fall together to create a coherent whole. Its fun! So now, as I wait for my flight to be called, the jigsaw is a completed picture and I’m enjoying the image that has emerged. In about 48 hours when the tour actually begins I’ll have a new set of challenges, frustrations, disappointments, and triumphs - a different brand of stresses and rewards. But for now, it’s the calm before the storm, I’ve done all I can to prepare for its onset, and I’m enjoying the repose.
Imprint News
I’ve recently returned from fall tours in Europe for Rick Steves. After an absence of 5 years I did a Best of Italy tour. I was so pleased to return to places not visited in a half decade like Lake Como, the Dolomites, Siena, Assisi, and Verona. The weather was great, I had a good group, and I thoroughly enjoyed the tour. We’ve added some new wrinkles like dinner in a Contrade in Sienna and local guides in the Dolomites, Verona, and Assisi – all of which enhanced the tour. But now I’m back in the office and ready to give my attention to the January Thailand tour and the long term planning of our southern Africa adventure, scheduled for April, 2014. With the Thailand tour now only three months away, I’m very excited to be returning to my favorite travel destination. Thailand has it all with a rich cultural heritage, fascinating architecture and archeological sites, a welcoming Buddhist society, stunning natural wonders, pristine beaches, great culinary traditions, and great value for western travelers. I’ll be blogging about the highlights of Thailand between now and January. (There are currently two seats available on the Thailand tour) This Southeast Asian gem has been much on my mind this year as I’ve been working hard with Tom Saknit of Sigma Media on developing a series of “Sightcasts” for this exotic destination. These sightcasts are webcasts devoted to specific travel sights and destinations - basically my take on the ins and outs, dos and don’ts of travel to various Imprint destinations. We have about 15 installments in the pipe and the first three are very close to being finished. We’re applying the final “polish” this week and hope to have them online very soon. They will be launched through the website and you will all get an email notice with link so you can tune in to see what we’ve done. I would love to hear any feedback you’d like to offer.
The developing plans for Africa are very exciting and I realize I’ve been remiss in keeping everyone up to date. Southern Africa as an Imprint destination ranked very high in our January poll and there is a lot of interest. I started looking for partners to work with early this year and was introduced to safari agents here in the Pacific Northwest. I was impressed with their enthusiasm, knowledge, and authenticity and started working with them. My vision for a southern Africa tour had been Cape Town and classic game viewing safaris with an optional excursion to Victoria Falls and the outside hope of somehow including the Okavango Delta in Botswana. As plans evolved it became quickly obvious that Okavango would not be possible and Victoria Falls would be an expensive addition. But the proposals for South Africa were very exciting, including rather luxurious safari accommodations, private game reserves, and an Indian Ocean coastal component. The one drawback was cost – considerably higher than hoped for. There was no doubt the experience being offered was going to be excellent and good value for money, just more expensive than I was comfortable with. I fought for lower costs and we were able to get them reduced by choosing different safari camps and rerouting to reduce travel and flight costs – but they were still very high. I felt the higher cost of the tour might be justified by the added luxury, though I wasn’t completely comfortable. Plans were moving along when we came to another, eventually insurmountable, stumbling block regarding deposits. While trying to resolve the impasse with my new partners I did some inquiry to find out about the industry standard for deposits. In the process several other safari companies pursued me and, in the end, I decided to change outfitters.
Immediately everything began to fall into place. For those of you who’ve been reading my blogs this past year, you know I’ve increasingly embraced the idea of synchronicity. I’m seeing its effects once again. As soon as I started working with the new safari company, all of the difficulties, large and small, that had been making me uncomfortable simply fell away. I’m now working directly with the safari outfitter, not an agent. Therefore, the safari portions are much less expensive. During six of our safari nights we’ll sleep in permanent tents – complete with beds, mosquito nets, and ensuite bathrooms; dine al fresco under a pavilion; and forego the swimming pools. This level of mid-range comfort was my original goal and, in my mind, better fits the authentic safari experience and Imprint travel values. I am still in the process of negotiating details so I don’t yet have final costs. But it is already clear I am going to be able to offer this tour for at least $1000 less than I’d previously thought. I couldn’t be more excited to offer a quality African experience for a great value!
Furthermore, a better price is only a part of the “synchronous” upgrade. Once I let go trying to make the initial plan work, it allowed me to rethink everything. The result is a vastly superior tour. I surrendered the attempt to make the tour fit into South Africa. I realized trying to create our game-viewing experiences in South Africa was a significantly limiting factor that also added a big layer of expense. I further realized, based on research, all I really care about in that country is Cape Town. With some quick inquiry, I learned we can fly from Cape Town to Botswana for a reasonable price, allowing me to revamp the itinerary completely. So now I’m working with my new partners on creating a tour that includes a few nights in Cape Town and then continues with our safari experience in the Okavango Delta and Chobe National Park in Botswana, and concludes at Victoria Falls. I’m getting the tour and safari experiences I really wanted, including Okavango and Victoria Falls, while saving everyone a sizable chunk of cash. Win – win – win. I plan to blog about the specific stops of the tour itinerary in the coming weeks. If you are interested in Africa for April 2014, please send me an email (info@imprinttours.com) so you can be added to the dedicated mailing list.
Imprint’s “Future File” includes China in 2016 and Egypt as soon as it is once again stable. I’m also considering repeating tours to India and Bali sometime in the next two years. Also, there is a growing “buzz” about a trip to Peru and Machu Picchu – I could see combining this with the Galapagos. Give me your feedback: info@imprinttours.com
2012 Survey Results
In February we conducted a survey. Based on the results, we are announcing our calendar for future tours. Thank you to all of you who participated. The results have given us excellent feedback for future planning. We were pleasantly surprised at the high level of participation and the consistency of responses in a couple of key areas. We asked for feedback regarding the ideal length of tours, the frequency of likely participation, inhibiting and encouraging factors of participation (cost, length, destination), specifically when we should go to Egypt, and a ranking of potential future destinations. Based on the survey response, we’ve made the following decisions. Tour frequency: Every other year for primary destinations (see below). Repeat destinations and “boutique” offerings (lower priority destinations; easily arranged; smaller groups) will be scheduled in off years.
Tour length: Two-week tours with optional extensions.
Future Destinations
Thailand is already scheduled for Jan/Feb 2013. We are considering (based on potential interest) a Morocco tour, possibly April of 2013. If you are interested please let us know at info@imprinttours.com
Primary Destinations
Three destinations topped the list of a vast majority of respondents: Egypt, Southern Africa, and China.
Egypt is clearly the number one choice – but there is also consensus that we wait for the political climate to stabilize. Therefore, we are putting plans for Egypt on hold, but fully intend to take a tour when conditions are favorable.
Southern Africa (South Africa, Victoria Falls, + possibly Botswana) will be our next new destination. We are targeting November 2013 or April 2014. Travel partners are in place and planning is already proceeding.
China will be planned for 2016.
Boutique Destinations
After Egypt, Southern Africa, and China indications for other destinations were less clear. But Morocco, Southern India, and Viet Nam were popular choices, in that order. Costa Rica and/or Guatemala polled enough to remain in consideration for a future tour. Among respondents who have not already been, Bali received a lot of interest.
Bali Imprint will target 2014 for our next tour to Bali.
Morocco Currently under consideration for 2013.
Southern India OR Viet Nam Under consideration for 2015.
Reid's ETBD spring schedule
For those of you who have inquired, and anyone else who may be interested, I have received my spring schedule from Rick Steves' Europe Through the Back Door. I will be leading a Best of Europe tour, commencing May 6; Berlin, Prague, & Vienna commencing May 28; and a second Berlin, Prague, & Vienna commencing June 11. I believe there are seats available on all three tours. It would be great to see some familiar faces! Reid
New Zealand Part III - Australia
[As an adjunct to our New Zealand tour we spent 3 nights in Sydney Australia.] We arrived at Sydney airport on schedule at 2:30PM. We were whisked away by bus for a driving tour of the city. I had been a bit skeptical about a city coach tour but immediately felt rewarded by the decision. Sydney is a world-class city with multiple sights and activities - and it is well spread out. We would have seen only a fraction of the city had we not taken the bus tour. We started with the CBD (central business district), a clean and well organized mix of modern skyscrapers and older, sandstone buildings. We got out at the Sydney Observatory – a great place for photos of the Harbour Bridge and downtown skyline. A second stop at Dawes Point provided vistas of Circular Quay and the Opera House. We drove through the Rocks neighborhood, one of the oldest in Sydney. I liked the combination of old architecture and modern art. We continued east along the harbor stopping at Mrs McQuerie’s point and Darling Point. We eventually made our way to South Head for views of the harbor mouth and Manly across the water and, finally, famous Bondi beach before heading to our Darling Harbor hotel. That evening the group was free to explore Darling Harbor and Chinatown while I met up with Aussie friends Dave and Diana Ellem.
The next morning our first activity was a walking tour of The Rocks. We had barely begun when the heavens opened and the rain started to fall. But we had lots of umbrellas to share and our guide Ann was wonderful so we thoroughly enjoyed the experience. We had planned to climb the pylon of the harbor bridge but most of the group decided to skip due to the weather. A free afternoon allowed more exploration of our Darling Harbor neighborhood. Options included the Nautical Museum, the Power Museum, Chinese Gardens, the Sydney Aquarium, and the Sydney Wildlife World. As a serendipitous bonus, Chinese New Years was being celebrated. Our neighborhood was jumping with activities including the classic Chinese dragon parade. Maia and I opted for the Aquarium since Maia was keen to see a platypus. We were rewarded but only after dogged diligence and multiple returns to the platypus habitat tank. Platypi tend to sleep in their burrows much of the day and it was only on our final attempt that we found a juvenile platypus swimming, grooming, and rooting for food. It was an exciting reward for our persistence. We took lots of blurry photographs and video and barely made it back to the hotel to meet the group.
Our evening’s activity was the annual Sydney Symphony concert in the Domain, Sydney’s massive, downtown public park. In keeping with Imprint’s values of cultural connections, I had long targeted the evening as a “meet the locals” event. We were joined by Dave and Diana as well as Jenny Self (a former Rick Steves tour member of mine) and her daughter. Dave and Diana did yeoman’s work that night. As prearranged, they arrived early at our hotel (armed with a rolling bag of picnic supplies, blankets, snacks, and beer) to rendezvous with a handful of volunteers from our group. Dave took the vanguard ahead to the Domain to stake out a plot of real estate for 30 people. Diana and I followed later with the rest of the group, joining thousands of other tourists and Sydneysiders for the city’s biggest public picnic, an annual celebration and highlight of the Sydney Festival. Dave and Diana played perfect hosts, engaging everyone in conversations and dispensing Aussie beer. Miraculously, the morning’s heavy rain had cleared off and we had a lovely dry evening to enjoy the concert and festive atmosphere. The still cloudy sky turned a dramatic red and then purple as the light faded and the music began. We were treated to Mozart and other classical tunes and a grand finale of the 1812 Overture, complete with cannons and fireworks. It was a magical evening.
Our last day was a free day until meeting for our farewell dinner. Maia and I crossed the harbor to Manly for a day at the beach with Dave and Diana. The ferry ride across the harbor was equal to any expensive harbor cruise and we got to see the Ellems’ home and swim in the ocean. Others in the group did the famous harbor bridge climb, watched a lifeguard competition/festival, took the Opera House tour, and even attended an opera performance. That evening we gathered at Circular Quay and boarded a cruise boat for a wonderful Sunset Dinner Harbor Cruise. Diana so enjoyed our group that she joined us for dinner as we feasted and toasted while cruising about the harbor with all its iconic sights. It was a fitting farewell to Sydney and the tour. We did make one final stop, a post-dinner happy hour in a Rocks pub. As we always do, we toasted the tour, shared highlights, and talked about future adventures.
On our final morning, after one last sumptuous buffer breakfast, we bid adieu to our companions who extended their stay in Australia and headed to the airport for our long flight home. To sum up our adventure down under, New Zealand and Australia are certainly two of the friendliest, most welcoming countries I’ve ever visited. The list of highlights is very long. We saw shining harbors, golden urban beaches, and iconic buildings, monuments, and bridges while anchoring our tour with the vibrant and diverse cities of Auckland and Sydney. The adrenalin activities of jetboating, the sky tower walk, zorbing, and bungy jumping added thrills and spills. Seeing Albatross and Penguins up close in the wild, horses and sheep shearing in shows, and Platypi and Kiwis in nature parks provided a fun “wildlife” component. The cultural connections of Maori music and dance performances, our tour of the Maori thermal village, a homestay, tasting great wine with the vineyard owner, and meeting fair dinkum (authentic) Aussies at Sydney’s biggest public party added to the tapestry of experiences. Finally, the unrivaled variety of natural wonders visited was exceptional: glowworm caves, geothermal features, Milford Sound, the Southern Alps, Lake Wakatipu and Queenstown vistas, the Otago Peninsula, and Sydney harbor. It was pretty darn special.
New Zealand II - South Island
Recently I posted an account of our experiences on New Zealand's north island from our January tour. After Auckland, Waitomo Cave, Otorohanga, a homestay, and the thermal wonders and Maori culture of Rotorua we were ready for the natural splendors of the south island. Our 5th day in NZ began with a morning flight to Queenstown and the south island. The weather was mostly cloudy but we got tantalizing glimpses of alpine lakes and the Southern Alps (used as the Misty Mountains in the Lord of the Rings movies). Queenstown (QT) has a western, sporty, welcoming vibe and a great energy. Activity centers in a pedestrian core and along the waterfront. The three pedestrian streets are interconnected by numerous passageways, all lined with eateries and boutique shops, making for fun explorations. Restaurants and bars compete with adventure sports outlets and souvenir shops for tourist interest and dollars. Many restaurants have outdoor seating and its all very inviting. After free time for lunch and preliminary QT explorations, we gathered for a mountain cable car excursion up Bob’s Peak. Bob’s Peak is the quintessential QT experience. One is treated to panoramic views of the surrounding mountains, the lake, and QT down below. You can have dinner, see a Maori cultural show, have a drink in the panorama bar, or even bungee or luge. The weather was blustery, rainy, and cold as we headed up. But the wind died down and the views were spectacular, with Lake Wakatipu below and the Remarkables, QT’s signature mountains, marching south to the horizon. The Remarkables are certainly remarkable to see, but they are so named because they align exactly north-south, a rarity in nature. We got to see people bungee jumping, bungee swinging, and riding the luge. Several from our group tried the luge, but no one opted for the bungee. Most took a few snapshots of the surrounding splendor and then retreated to the bar for a Kiwi beer complimented by stunning views. Eventually we retreated back to QT for a pizza dinner at Winnies, another QT institution with welcoming staff, high energy atmosphere, and frontier décor complete with fireplaces and wagonwheel chandeliers.
Day 6 was a highlight for everyone: our Milford Sound excursion day! We started very early on our 4 hour journey to the sound. After a mid-morning break in Te Anau, the drive got steadily more dramatic as we headed into the Southern Alps. We were playing cat and mouse with clouds and blue sky, never sure how the weather would be at our destination. But she steadily cleared as the morning wore on. We made a first photo stop at Mirror Lakes. Aptly named, these tiny, still lakes provided mirror images of the snow-clad peaks beyond. The views escalated into the spectacular category as we approached the Homer Tunnel. The mountains form wonderful natural amphitheaters on both ends of the tunnel and multiple waterfalls spill down the cliff-like walls. The tunnel cuts through the Wick Mountains, the last barrier before the descent to Milford. Emerging from the western end, the weather was definitely clearing. The spirits of the group, already high, ratcheted up a notch in anticipation. We made one final stop at Chasm Walk, for a 15 minute trail through dense alpine forest, strewn with New Zealand’s signature ferns and mosses that put one in mind of the Olympic peninsula here in Washington. The reward waiting at the end of the trail was a spectacular series of cataracts and the twisting erosion channel they’d carved over millennia. Ten minutes later we were at the landing, preparing to board our Milford excursion boat. By the time our boat departed, only a handful of fluffy white clouds dotted the deep blue sky – just enough to make our pictures better. We spent the next two hours cruising the truly magnificent sound with slack jaws and tired shutter fingers. We had the best of all worlds: a clear day following several rainy days, meaning multiple waterfalls gushed down the steep sides of the fjord-like sound. Moreover, a late spring snow meant all our photographs would boast snow-capped peaks. A small group of seals sunning on some rocks just added to the magical setting. It was truly a magnificent day!
The long drive home was equally enjoyable as we had clear skies and new angles on the dramatic scenery and westering golden light on the Remarkables as we neared our home destination.
Our third day in Queenstown was a free day and our group engaged in a variety of the adventures and excursions on offer in the area. One couple took a Lord of the Rings tour to all the filming locations in the area. Someone else went bungy jumping at AJ Hacketts, the inventor of the “sport”. Eleven of us started out our day by going on the original Jetboat ride up Shotover Canyon. We were able to procure a group discount and we were picked up at our hotel. The experience itself was spectacular as we screamed, laughed, hooted, and giggled our way through 360 degree bow spins and rollercoaster-like bumps, rolls, and near misses in the steep and narrow canyon. We had to laugh at ourselves when we still screamed as our driver executed a last-second swerve to barely miss a rock or wall – even though he’d done so safely ten times before. It was a magnificent thrill ride.
After some lunch, Maia and I did some shopping and then visited the Kiwi & Birdlife Park. We did get to see the rare, nocturnal Kiwis at feeding time. There was even a fluffy baby – so cute! Additionally, we saw many other birds, lizards, Maori exhibitions, and a fun conservation show. We finished off our day with a lazy lake cruise on the SS Ernsclaw, a century old steamer that still plies Lake. The weather was still crystal clear and we soaked up the evening light, the mountain scenery, and simply being on the water. It was just lovely.
We departed Queenstown and drove east through the mountains. Like virtually everywhere in NZ, the scenery was great. We arrived at Shaky Bridge winery in Alexandre about 11:00AM. Our host Ashley introduced us to their operation and we tasted about 6 wines – all of them were delicious. Then we had a tour of the vineyard with the winemaker, a visit to the production facility, and more tasting directly from casks. Finally we were treated to a wonderful Kiwi barbeque – fresh salmon, chicken and lamb sausages, coleslaw and salads, all with, you guessed it, great wine. I’ve done wine tastings all over Europe and this one stacked up with the best – both experience and wine quality. Another perfect weather day completed the idyllic setting. We continued on to Pukarangi where we caught the scenic Taieri Gorge Railway. The 90-year old, vintage railway cut through a pretty gorge to our destination of Dunedin. Dunedin was founded by Scots in the 19th century and one feels like you’ve arrived in a smaller version of Edinburgh (in fact, Dunedin is Gaelic for Edinburgh). There’s even a statue of Robert Burns. Interesting architecture, a laid-back atmosphere, and a signature octagonal square in the heart of town made it a group favorite. We had a great Italian dinner together at Etrusco restaurant, just off the Octagon.
The next day's focus was an afternoon of wildlife viewing on the Otago Peninsula. But beforehand, during a free morning, Maia and I toured the Cadbury Chocolate factory which produces all of New Zealand’s Cadbury treats. We donned hairnets (and a beard net for me) and toured the facility learning all about chocolate production and sampling many of the products. There was even a two-story molten chocolate fall. Others visited the highly regarded Otago Museum, did some souvenir shopping, or hiked to rugged and picturesque Tunnel Beach.
After lunch we boarded our tour bus for the peninsula. Lovely vistas greeted us (surprise) as we wound out to the end of the land. There we visited the Royal Albatross Conservation Center. In a brief conservation program we learned all about the giant birds (10-foot wingspan). Then we quietly crowded into the viewing blind to watch them in their natural habitat. They were quite magnificent as they wheeled and soared in the stiff winds. After departing, a ten-minute drive brought us to Penguin Place. A similar conservation program introduced us to the Yellow-Eyed Penguin, one of the world’s rarest, and then we trudged down to the beach where they nest. This time a series of covered, WWI-style trenches provided the necessary penguin privacy but allowed our viewing. I expected to see penguins from 20-30 feet but was pleasantly surprised to see them extremely close up. We also enjoyed seeing a small group of seals. It was a great afternoon, even with a short downpour endured at Penguin Place.
Spectacular mountain scenery, beautiful Milford Sound, great wine tasting, and the wildlife of the Otago Peninsula were the highlights of the south island. The last leg of our journey would take us across the Tasman Sea to neighboring Autralia and the world class city of Sydney. I will be sharing that part of the adventure in the next couple weeks.
Imprint News
Imprint Tours is pleased to announce our 2013 Tantalizing Thailand tour, Jan. 27 to Feb. 9, 2013. Come join us for two weeks in this amazing Southeast Asian gem! Details available on the website Tours page - click on the tab at the top of this page. To whet your appetite check out the photo gallery from the 2008 Thailand tour under the photo category on this page. For those of you in the Seattle area, Reid is speaking on Thailand at Wide World Books and Maps, Wallingford on Tues. Feb. 28 at 7:00PM and again at The Savvy Traveler, Edmonds on Sat. March 31 at 1:00PM (and New Zealand that same day at 10:00AM).
Imprint New Zealand Tour (part I)
Imprint Tours’ first foray to the southern hemisphere was a huge success. Our intrepid group of 23 travelers enjoyed a fabulous 2 weeks in New Zealand and Sydney, Australia. Every new tour I do develops its own “theme”. For NZ, that theme was Natural Wonders and Natural Warmth. The spectacle of glowworm caves, geo-thermal wonders, and the stunning scenery and wildlife of the south island were matched only by the genuine friendliness and hospitality of the Kiwis themselves. Throw in some great entertainment (the Kiwis know how to put on a show), a homestay, wine tasting, great meals, some Maori connections, and the world-class city of Sydney and you have the recipe for a great tour. We began our adventure in Auckland with a morning driving tour of the city. We crossed the famous harbor bridge for views from the other side, stopped for a photo op at Westhaven Marina, and then wound our way up to Mt. Eden for more views back across the City of Sails. Next was a drive along the scenic coastal drive to Mission Bay beaches and views of the Hauraki Gulf. Auckland is a vibrant, multicultural city in a rather stunning setting, surrounded by beautiful Waitemata and Manukau Harbors. For me the highlight of our morning tour was our stop in The Auckland Domain, where we made time for a visit to the Auckland Museum. The museum is a wonderful introduction to New Zealand with some of the country’s most impressive Maori artifacts, a volcano room, fossils and Pleistocene skeletons, and an entire floor devoted to the country’s participation in two world wars.
After a free afternoon we re-gathered for our splendid dinner atop the Sky Tower, the highest structure in the Southern Hemisphere. Although dinner atop and tower is hardly a unique experience, this was certainly memorable. Taking the express elevator with it's glass floor, we were whisked to the 600-foot high observation deck. More glass floor sections provided cheap thrills as we walked, jumped, and took photos on them. A bit later we settled in to our fabulous buffet dinner. The food tables groaned with choices: soups, salads, dozens of seafood choices, carving stations, and a plentiful dessert buffet. It was a memorable first night.
Day 2
After a generous breakfast buffet we departed Auckland. Almost immediately we were in rolling countryside, dotted with farms and forests. New Zealand’s agricultural importance was immediately obvious. A two-hour drive brought us to the charming, self-proclaimed capital of Kiwiana (all things New Zealand), Otorohanga. The small town memorializes all things Kiwi in a series of displays and signs. It was a fun lunch stop and my group found it to be a great place for souvenir hunting, boasting the best prices on the trip. Our next stop was the Waitomo Glowworm caves. We were taken down into the impressive caverns, given a brief geological history, and eventually boarded flat-bottomed boats in which we glided silently across and underground lake in complete darkness - except for the ceiling illumination of thousands of glowworms. Glowworms are the larvae of the fungus gnat. They live in hammock-like cocoons suspended from the cave roof. They weave sticky, spiderweb-like threads that hang down, glowing with luminescence. Insects are attracted to the light, get stuck, and are reeled in. But for us, it was simply a mysterious display of thousands of greenish-blue lights over our heads. It was a magical experience.
After the caves we continued to Cambridge where we dispersed to area farms for a homestay. In keeping with our travel values of making cultural connections, the group was divided into groups of 4 and taken home to spend a night on a local farm. Based on the enthusiastic sharing of the group the next morning, it was a highlight of the tour. Maia and I stayed on a small sheep farm where we enjoyed a swimming pool, a delicious home-cooked dinner and breakfast, and great conversations with our hosts. It was a great look into the lives and attitudes of everyday Kiwis.
Day 3
Our group reassembled in Cambridge and headed for a local stud farm, swapping homestay stories along the way. Cambridge is a famous horse breeding and training region. We visited Cambridge Stud Farms where we were treated to a tour of the facilities and a show. We learned about horses, their care, breeding, and training, toured the stables, and even had a chance to ride a champion racehorse. We rounded out our morning with a lovely lunch stop at Mamaku Blue, a blueberry farm outside Rotorua. After learning about blueberry cultivation and the fine nutritional merits of blueberries we sampled products ranging from blueberry wines and liquors to jams and honeys. There were even blueberry dog biscuits (we passed on the sampling). We were dropped at our Rotorua hotel by mid-afternoon. In the early evening we gathered for a happy hour at the Pig and Whistle, a local institution.
Day 4
Kiwi agriculture was on display again this morning as we started with a sheep shearing show. As stated, they know how to put on a show and the sheep did not disappoint. Then it was on to Whakarewarewa thermal village where we viewed some of Rotorua’s famous geothermal wonders, but more importantly, learned about the Maori people who have made their homes there for centuries. Our guide, a local Maori woman, was warm, welcoming, and full of information about the thermal features and Maori cultural life. She seemed especially proud of Maori traditions of living in harmony with the land. We learned about everything from communal bathing to tribal justice, and even how to boil an egg in a morning glory pool. We also enjoyed a Maori cultural performance which included the ritual challenge/welcome, Maori music and singing, the graceful “Poi” dance (women swing poi or flax balls on strings to the rhythm), and the “haka”. The haka is the warrior’s chant traditionally used to intimidate enemies before battle. The World Cup Champion NZ Rugby team famously performs the haka before their matches (a good example of how Maori culture is still present in modern NZ society). The aggressive chanting, bellicose posturing, stomping, slapping of chests, and intimidating facial expressions (eyes bugging and tongues out) make for a riotous and entertaining performance.
During a free afternoon, a number of our group extended their sight-seeing by visiting the nearby Buried Village - a 19th-century Maori village that was covered by a volcanic eruption, sort of a Maori Pompeii. While I found the actual site a bit underwhelming, our guide was charming, the setting lovely, and the site included a rather impressive waterfall. Next Maia (my 13-year old daughter and official Imprint assistant) and I headed out to the Zorb, a NZ adventure invention. We squeezed into a giant plastic ball and rolled down a hill. One can be strapped in or slosh around freely (with water added) and choose between a straight or zig-zag track. It was great fun and a highlight for Maia. That night we had a traditional Maori feast, the Hangi, at our hotel. Included was a second Maori performance. It was essentially the same show as seen earlier in the day, but the music is so enjoyable, the performers so good, and the atmosphere so fun, that we enjoyed it completely, even a second time. Participants were chosen from the audience and several from our group tried our hands at being intimidating in the haka.
The following day we flew to Queenstown and the south island. Part II (next week) will describe our adventures there.
Travel Synchronicity
Last year I wrote about travel serendipity - the kind where fate seems to conspire to place the right person in your path at the right moment. I have had that experience often with Imprint Tours, the travel gods providing me the right local partner for developing tours in Thailand or India. Since I wrote that article I bumped into an old friend, also in the travel business, who set me up with just the right travel partners for creating our pending New Zealand tour. But I want to write about a different kind of travel serendipity today. The kind where one is abroad, miles from home, and seemingly randomly, you bump into someone you know. The odds seem fantastically against such chance encounters, yet they happen. And it seems that everyone has more than one similar story to tell. Additionally, in my experience, it seems these “random” meetings provide some important or needed information. In September I went to Seatac airport to fly to Amsterdam for a Rick Steves tour. While in line at the check-in the couple in front of me asked about my Rick Steves hat. Eventually we realized that I know the woman - she is a friend of my sister. We laughed a bit about the coincidence and I even mentioned my speculations surrounding these seemingly chance encounters. This particular one didn’t seem overly remarkable, but it set my mind working. Eventually the couple got in the long boarding line and I went to sit at a nearby table until the line diminished. I felt a tap on my shoulder - one of my colleagues was sitting at the next table. We laughed and chatted a bit. I told of the first encounter and my ideas about random meetings. Like that connection, two Rick Steves guides crossing paths at Seatac at the beginning of Sept is hardly remarkable. In fact, it turns out a third colleague was also on the flight. But I’m not finished. When it was time to board, who do you imagine was sitting next to me but my colleague? Now what are the chances of that? Pretty unlikely. Also, in our conversations I was able to glean some important advice for the tour I was to begin, elements that were causing me some concern. It seemed as if this random connection was intended to communicate some important, needed information. Interesting.
The events I’ve described don’t seem to be amazingly unlikely. But I’ve had other, truly remarkable encounters. In 1993, Julie and I spent several days with a couple we met in Pukhet Thailand. Afterwards, we wrote a few letters (pre-email) and eventually lost touch. Five years later I was in Haarlem, Netherlands having a falafal when the two of them walked by. Thirty years ago, when I was a student in Germany, I was traveling by train to Sweden about four weeks after school had ended. I won’t recount the details but I’d had a traumatic experience and was rather shaken. I boarded the train to find it completely full. There were two seats available on the entire train, both reserved. I plopped down in one, knowing I’d have to give it up. After a couple stops, the person arrived and turned out to be one of my best friends from school. Moreover, the occupant of the other reserved seat (next to my friend’s), never showed. So I sat with a close friend and confident for the next several hours at a time when I really needed a shoulder. Interesting.
You have probably noted the preponderance of the words “seems” and “seemingly” in my description of these events. But now I come to the point of my rambling - is it chance? Is it random? Or is the universe organized in a way that we always make that “seemingly” random connection. Viewed strictly statistically, it seems fantastically unlikely that this sort of encounter would happen with the frequency that it does. Pick any example, and if either party were five minutes earlier/later, visiting a different day (or week, month, or year), or even simply turned the wrong way at the key moment - the connection would be missed. So if one accepts the premise that these encounters are statistically random, one must conclude that for every connection made, there must be thousands, tens of thousands (hundreds of thousands??) of times when we just miss someone. To me that is simply beyond the pale of reason. There is something more than chance at work. Moreover, the fact that many of these encounters also provide some important or timely communication makes this view even more compelling.
The evidence, albeit anecdotal, keeps mounting. In Septermber I was in the alps with a Rick Steves tour. While there, I had a drink with a friend - but not just any friend. I met up with Craig Papworth, whom I met 2 years ago, prompting my initial writing about serendipitous encounters. Without recounting the entire story, I’m certain I’ll be working with Craig when it comes time to create our Southern Africa tour in a couple years. It would be exciting if I could report we connected “randomly” a second time, but this meeting was arranged. However, I shared my current musings about “chance meetings” and it turns out he is a complete believer in the phenomena. I guess I am not alone in my musings. The concept I’ve been discussing has a name: synchronicity (one which many of you are no doubt familiar with). Craig and I had an animated discussion which enabled the crystallization of my thinking on this subject. Was it chance that we connected at this time? I think not. Instead, I’m now convinced our paths crossed again because I was specifically ready for that specific conversation - key pieces of information, provided in a timely manner, made possible by the initial “chance” meeting two years ago. Interesting.
This subject might not seem like a real travel blog - but I am 100% certain that my evolving belief in universal synchronicity has been nurtured by my lifetime of travel and the exposure to new ideas and new ways of thinking it has provided. I’ll close with one of my favorite travel quotes, by Marcel Proust: “Travel is not about seeing new landscapes but about learning to see with new eyes.”
Anyone else have a remarkable synchronicity story to share?
Reid's Speaking Schedule
Hello Imprint travelers! For those of you in the Seattle area I thought I'd let you know about my next few speaking engagements. This Saturday, Nov. 19, 9:00AM I'll be speaking about Greece at the Rick Steves Travel Festival (http://www.ricksteves.com//news/classes/nov11_menu.htm). Later that day (1:00PM) I'll be doing a talk on Thailand at the Savvy Traveler, also in Edmonds. (http://www.savvytravelerstore.com) In December, I'll be speaking on Venice, Florence, and Rome at the Edmonds Theater (ETBD sponsored; http://www.ricksteves.com//news/classes/class_menu.htm) at 10:00AM.
We are planning for an Imprint Thailand tour in January 2013. If that sounds interesting, this Saturday is a perfect time to come and find out more. I'd love to see some familiar faces.