Ubud - Bali's Cultural Capital

One of the highlights of our "Beautiful Bali" tour is our extended stay in Ubud. Located in Bali's mountainous interior, Ubud boasts a cooler climate and central access to many of the island's cultural and artistic attractions. Important archeological sights are easy day trips. Adventure enthusiasts can indulge in white-water rafting and cycling. Art fans can indulge in the island's best art museums and craft villages nearby produce wood carving, stone carving, silver and gold, glass, baskets, painting, masks, and even kites. For visitors wishing to partake of Bali's storied dance drama, Ubud offers multiple venues nightly and virtually all Balinese performance arts are available. Ubud is also a center for a large variety of cultural classes. There are even Bird, Reptile, and Elephant Adventure Parks nearby for family entertainment. And if one gets run down with all the activities, Ubud's many inexpensive spas can help with relaxation and recovery. For us at Imprint, it is the easy access to Bali's best ancient sites that make Ubud a prime destination. Located about 15 miles north of Ubud, Gunung Kawi is Bali's oldest, largest, and most impressive ancient sight. The monument consists of 10 large candi (shrines), situated in a beautiful river valley. Visitors descend to the verdant valley floor via a stone staircase surrounded by rice terraces. The 25-foot candi are dramatically cut from cliff sides, each in its own niche (see photo above). The monuments are memorials to the Balinese royalty of the 11th century, making them almost 1000 years old. Nearby are the sacred springs of Tirta Empol. This is one of the island's most sacred spots and, not surprisingly, one of the most important temples, Pura Tirta Empol, is adjacent to the springs. The spring waters are believed to have special curative and restorative powers and pilgrims come from across the island for ritual purification and blessing in the temple. The spring waters are channeled into a holding tank from which they gush through a series of spouts into the ritual bathing pool. In keeping with our philosophy of making authentic connections, on our Beautiful Bali tour we participate in a water purification ceremony. Our local guide prepares offerings on our behalf and instructs us on proper customs, etiquette, and procedure. Entering the waist-deep pool, we traverse from spout to spout, ducking our heads under each in turn. It is refreshing on both a spiritual and physical level. Afterword, we enter the temple grounds and receive a blessing from one of the priests. It is the most meaningful connection experience on the tour. Gunung Kawi and Tirta Empol together have been nominated for inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage protection list.

Fifteen minutes east of Ubud travelers find Bedulu, once the capital of the 13th-14th century Pejeng dynasty. Two ancient sights, Goa Gajah and Yeh Pulu are located there. Goa Gajah is a small natural cave that was enhanced to create a religious sanctuary. Inside the cave visitors see lingam (the phallic symbol of the Hindu god Shiva), yoni (the female counterpart), and a statue of Ganesh. But it is the creatively carved exterior that impresses. The cave entrance is the mouth of an elaborately carved demon. Gigantic fingers on either side of the demon's face push back a riotous collection of lesser but equally detailed stone carvings. In front of the cave are twin bathing pools with ceremonial waterspouts for requisite ritual bathing. Nearby is Yeh Pulu, an 80-foot long carved cliff face, thought to be a hermitage from the 14th century. The figures can be read as a narrative. Theories on the subject range from scenes of everyday life to the life of Krishna. Visitors can identify a man carrying two jugs, a woman with jewelry, a hunting scene, and Ganesh. The site is attended by a local priest, who offers blessings to visitors (another great connection experience).

A bit further afield, about 17 miles east of Ubud, the town of Semarapura (or Klungkung) hosts the interesting Taman Kertha Gosa palace complex. Klungkung was once the island's most powerful kingdom. The complex is laid out in a large square with courtyards, gardens, pavilions, and moats. The highlights of the palace grounds are two pavilions, Kertha Gosa and Bale Kambang. Kertha Gosa, or Hall of Justice, was essentially Klungkung's court where disputes were settled. The ceilings are completely covered in the creative and elaborate Klungkung style of painting. The paintings depict scenes from a Balinese epic, cautionary tales of punishment for crimes, and various tales from the Hindu epic, Mahabharata. Bale Kambang, the Floating Pavilion, displays equally lavish paintings. The subjects here include Balinese folk tales and the astrological calendar. The small museum on site has a few archeological pieces and exhibits of songket weaving (silver or gold threaded cloth), palm wine making, and palm sugar extraction.

In addition to the historical sights near Ubud, there are a handful of interesting temples as well. Pura Kebo Edan (Crazy Buffalo Temple) contains a 700-year old, 10-foot high statue known as the Giant of Pejang. Pura Pusering Jagat (Navel of the World Temple) is a large, 700-year old temple containing a famous pair of stone carvings, a lingam and joni, which attract young couples wanting to conceive children. Pura Penataran Sasih contains the Fallen Moon of Pejeng, the largest single-piece cast bronze drum in the world. It is thought to be more than 1000 years old. Balinese legend suggests the drum was a fallen moon which came to earth from the heavens, hence the name.

Ambitious travelers could visit all of these sights in a busy, full day using a rental car or motorcycle. But a more leisurely pace spread over two days is recommended. For those not wanting to rent their own vehicle, local transport in the form of Bemos (frequent, communal vans) provide easy access as well. And lastly, Ubud has many, many tour operators that organize excursions. Even farther- flung sights are possible from Ubud where organized excursions to Tanah Lot, Lake Bratan, Mt Batur, and Besakih are possible.

Eat, Pray, Love

Julie and I recently went to see “Eat, Pray, Love” based on Elizabeth Gilbert’s memoir of self-discovery. Our interest was more than entertainment as Gilbert’s story has helped increase interest in travel to Italy, India, and Bali. As Imprint has tours to two of those destinations, we were curious to see if the movie would significantly add to the mystique and desirability of travel there. I must confess to being somewhat underwhelmed by EPL. I would be hard-pressed to disagree with reviews of the movie, which were decidedly lukewarm. As seems always to be the case, the movie does not stack up to the book. The performances seemed lackluster and the storyline not nearly as engaging as that of the book. But what I was really looking for was the compelling imagery that is ubiquitous in Bali and India. Those destinations are the most visually stunning and diverse of any I’ve visited. I had hoped this movie might be one of those in which the setting becomes one of the story’s stars. In this I was truly disappointed. With few exceptions the movie did little to portray the richness of either location.

But EPL is not a bad movie, just one that failed to live up to admittedly high expectations. And it does contain fleeting moments that embody the sense of place in India and Bali. For India, there is really only one brief scene, Gilbert’s arrival in India. The movie does a good job of portraying the intensity, chaos, crowdedness, and “in-your-face” aspect of one’s first moments in India. The beggars at Gilbert’s taxi window are a reality of the Indian experience. Unfortunately, it is only these pejorative elements moviegoers will see. Absent are the colors, majesty, history, architectural grandeur, sensory stimulation, and mysticism (the ashram scenes do little to illuminate this facet) that imbue every waking moment of an India visit. The only glimpse of sumptuous India is the wedding scene with the spectacular wedding dress and sensuous feel and bright colors of the celebration.

Bali fares better with lovely glimpses of emerald rice terraces, verdant flora, and dramatic coastal and beach locations. One also gets some views of the local architecture, colorful clothing, and signature mountains. In particular we enjoyed the lovely shots of hiking within the caldera of Mt. Batur. Some subtle touches were nice. Like the farmer “herding” ducks in the opening sequence and the vibrant market scenes. Perhaps the most interesting feature portrayed was cultural: the palm reader Ketut. The actor does a marvelous job conveying the genuine, contented, light-hearted, and smiling Balinese people. But again, a majority of the most alluring aspects of the Balinese landscape were absent. There were no examples of the most spectacular vistas, beautiful temple architecture, archeological monuments, or the captivating Balinese dance dramas.

In summary, EPL as an inspirational travelogue gets a thumbs down from this reviewer. But for those of you who have been to Bali it will be fun to revisit the sense of place and culture. For those of you considering going to Bali, it will show you some of Bali’s more subtle features. All told, EPL is worth a DVD rental for a quiet evening of vicarious travel – but won’t even scratch the surface of the story that is India or Bali.

Mehrangarh Fort

Rising high above the city of Jodhpur is Rajasthan’s mightiest and most famous fort, Mehrangarh. Widely regarded as the finest example of Hindu military architecture the citadel rises a total of 400 feet above the city and creates an imposing profile. It covers over three square miles and its red sandstone walls are 120 feet high and 70 feet thick, extending a shear cliff to dramatic effect. The soaring ramparts afford dramatic views over the city of Jodhpur and the surrounding area. Known as the “Citadel of the Sun” (mihir is Sanskrit for sun and the sun god was the traditional chief deity of the Rathore dynasty) its colossal proportions and dramatic lines have inspired many glowing descriptions. Rudyard Kipling called it, “the work of giants.” In 1458 the 15th Rathore ruler, Rao Jodha, decided to move his capital from Mandore to a new location which he named for himself - Jodhpur. A new fortress/palace complex was begun on a hill known as Bhaurcheeria, the mountain of birds. Although the initial ramparts and palace were built by Jodha, most of the current fort dates from the 17th century. As is the case with many storied fortresses in India, legends about Mehrangarh abound. According to one story, a hermit lived on the hill and had to be moved during construction. The hermit was angered by being forced to leave his home and therefore cursed the maharaja: “Jodha! May your citadel ever suffer a scarcity of water!” Even today this part of Rajasthan is prone to drought. One legend told is absolutely true. Jodha took some rather extreme measures to ensure the site would be blessed. He buried a man, Rajiya Bhambi, alive in the foundations (a common practice). In return the man’s family would be cared for by the Rathores. To this day his descendants live in an estate given them by the Maharaja.

The museum contained within the fort is one of the finest in Rajasthan, due in part to the fact that the fort is still owned and operated by the Maharaja of Jodhpur. Visitors can rent excellent audio guides which have been developed with contributions by the current Maharaja and use his voice. Within the massive walls are several palaces displaying intricate carvings, frescoes, and spacious courtyards. As with other Rajasthani forts, one must negotiate a steep zigzag road that winds up through multiple gates - seven in all. The Jaipol (victory) gate commemorates a victory over Jaipur and Bikaner and the Fatehpol gate celebrates defeat of the Mughals. These gates and this citadel were not all ceremonial. Evidence that the fort was more than a showpiece are easy to spot on the second gate in the form of cannonball marks. In addition to the gates and palaces the museum contains a room of royal palanquins, including an elaborate gilded version won in a battle against Gujarat in the 18th century. There are weapons, costumes, howdahs (), musical instruments, furniture, and paintings, all of which illuminate the lives of the Rajput princes and their families. An additional fascinating feature is the existence of palm prints on the walls, just inside the Loha Gate, from the burned wives of fallen maharajas when they committed sati (ritual self-immolation). The prints are still objects of local veneration.

On Imprint Tours’ Northern India tour Mehrangarh represents one of the highlights of rugged Rajasthan. We’ll spend an entire morning exploring the fort. Additionally, we’ll have plenty of free time to explore Jodhpur below. The labyrinthine old commercial center of the city contains multiple bazaars selling fruit, vegetables, spices, sweets, silver, and handicrafts. A majority of the adobe houses have been painted blue, giving Jodhpur its moniker – the Blue City.

Serendipity and South Africa

During 30+ years of personal travel and 15 years of professional travel, most of the richest experiences we’ve had were completely unexpected and unplanned. The serendipity of travel is one of the great reasons to actually get out and explore this fabulous planet. Any regular traveler will report the same – the best experiences are those that happen spontaneously. The truly unquantifiable element is why serendipity seems to happen so regularly while traveling. We have no explanation, only the assurance that it is true. Somehow the universe seems to reward the intrepid spirit of exploration. On my very first trip abroad, in 1978, I had one of my most memorable travel encounters. I was hitch-hiking in Belgium, on my way to Ostende to catch a ferry to England (no Chunnel or cheap flights in those days). I was picked up by a friendly Belgian man in a modest car. He spoke almost no English but somehow was able to communicate that his wife did speak English and he insisted I come home with him. My only reservation was that I wanted to make sure I made it to Ostende in time to make the last boat of the day. He seemed to understand this concern, and by hand gestures and much smiling was able to convince me not to worry. My host’s wife was surprised to see an extra face at their door (no cell phones either) but did not miss a beat in welcoming me into their tiny home. She did speak some English and I was treated to lunch. After lunch I happened to mention that all I knew of Belgian culture was Belgian waffles. That prompted a discussion in Flemish followed by the couple (plus their dog) piling into the car and taking me into the nearby village where I was treated to Belgian waffles – with strawberries and whipped cream. Eventually we got back in the car and the charming couple drove me about an hour to Ostende, dropping me at the boat dock. They drove away smiling and waving, having devoted the better part of a day to my comfort and leaving me with a warm and happy travel memory.

In December 1992 Julie and I had returned to Switzerland to work a winter season in Arosa, where I had worked in my twenties. After procuring jobs we had 2 weeks of free time and decided to go to France. We arrived in Paris and got an inexpensive hotel in the suburbs. We did some of the usual sight-seeing but the sun was gone by 4:00PM and so the evenings were fairly boring. On about the third night of sitting in our room after dinner we decided we had to venture out. We opted to head to the Champs-Elysees, knowing there is a lot of energy and activity there. Additionally, we could potentially stay warm by going into shops. Our first clue that something unusual was happening was our arrival in the Charles DeGaul/Etoille metro station where masses of people were being funneled to a single exit. We had no clue what was happening but were simply swept along by the tide of humanity. It turns out the Olympic torch for the Albertville Winter Olympics, complete with parade, was scheduled to arrive that night. We joined the massive crowds lining the street (plenty warm!) and were feted to a fabulous parade.

We have experienced travel serendipity at Imprint Tours as well. Some of our best tour experiences originated in chance encounters and some of our excellent travel partners were discovered in a similar fashion. On our most recent tour of Bali one of the highlights was a lunch visit to an out-of-the-way guesthouse, Kebun Impian, and a scenic drive along the rugged eastern edge of the island. At the guesthouse we were treated to one of the best meals on the tour. And since the owners, John and Wayan, are sponsors of the local children’s dance troop we were able to observe a classical dance class. Additionally, John provided a serendipitous surprise for even Julie and me by bringing in a master dancer, a graduate of the local troop, to perform for us. Such authentic connection experiences are exactly what we strive for at Imprint. We had discovered Kebun Impian on our research trip, completely by accident. We were driving the rugged coast road and had left late in the morning and without any food. There were no opportunities for a meal on the remote route and Maia was getting very hungry. We promised we would stop at the first place serving food, no matter what it was like or what it cost. Kebun Impian was the next opportunity we encountered and we certainly would not have stopped there under other circumstances. What a find!

Sometimes travel serendipity emerges or evolves from some great problem or challenge. On our 2006 Greece tour we were traveling on Orthodox Easter Sunday, the biggest holiday on the Greek calendar. Our challenge was finding some place to have lunch as virtually the entire country shuts down and people spend the day with their families. We stopped at a seaside town, gave our tour members some free time for lunch, and encouraged them to try to make connections with any families they found celebrating Easter. I found a family roasting a lamb on a spit (the typical Easter meal), asked if I could take photos, and was invited to join in. I had a wonderful cultural connection experience, but that paled in comparison to the experience that was to come. About a dozen of our group had walked along the coast seeking an open taverna for lunch. Eventually, they knocked on the door of a closed taverna to inquire. Though closed, the owner was preparing a lamb for his family and invited them to join. After lunch the rest of our group was invited to share in the wine and our entire tour group ended up celebrating Easter with the taverna owner and his family.

Some of Imprint’s travel partners were found through seemingly chance encounters. Our Thai ground agent was discovered after reading an article in a travel magazine. We found our India partner through a chance meeting at a St Patrick’s Day party here in Seattle. And now this spring, while escorting a Rick Steves group through Switzerland, I made the acquaintance of a South African living in Germany, running a paragliding service near Neuschwanstein Castle. He operates adventure tours, has been involved in tourism his whole life, and is anxious to assist in organizing a tour of southern Africa should Imprint decide we want to tour there. Based on our past track record with these “chance” encounters, we have a lot of faith in them and are inclined to follow where they lead. Some of you have expressed interest in traveling to Africa and there is certainly a buzz about South Africa with the current World Cup Championships taking place there right now. So we are currently taking a look at developing a southern Africa tour. It would certainly take in the Wine and Garden Routes, Robben Island, Capetown highlights, Kruger National Park, and Blyde River Canyon of South Africa, plus Victoria Falls and probably the Okavango Delta in Botswana. If a trip of this nature excites your travel imagination, please let us know. We would target 2013 or 2014. We will start a designated mailing list for a southern Africa tour. If you are interested please send us an email.

Certainly many of you have had serendipitous travel experiences yourselves. We’d like to hear about them! Please send us an email recounting your own story. We’ll publish 2 or 3 of the best stories and the author of the best travel serendipity tale will be awarded $50 off on any Imprint Tour.

First Bali Tour

In April we successfully concluded our inaugural Beautiful Bali tour. We felt the tour was a resounding success and early tour member evaluations support our assumption. We were pleased to escort 20 intrepid travelers for two weeks of exploration and travel connections on this Southeast Asian island paradise. We were happy with the balance of world class sights, remote destinations, and cultural connection experiences we were able to provide – hallmarks of an Imprint Tour experience. Moreover, we enjoyed and were gratified by the flexible attitudes and spirited camaraderie provided by our first group of Indonesian travelers. The tour began with a day of performances. We started our morning journeying to Batubulan, home of one of the island’s premier Barong Dance troupes. The colorful, engaging, and energetic performance introduced us to the richness of Balinese culture, exemplified by its compelling tradition of dance drama. Beyond the pageantry of the Barong, we were reminded of the comedic whimsy that contributes to the accessibility of Balinese drama for westerners. Moreover, we were reminded of the tremendous creativity that pervades all Balinese culture. From dance to painting, sculpting, clothing, architecture, ritual, and music – all Balinese life seems to be artistically expressed. Even the kites are masterpieces. Later that same day we traveled south to the Bukit Penninsula where we enjoyed a rousing rendition of Bali’s most famous dance: Kecak. The Kecak dance, a segment of the Ramayana uniquely accompanied by an all-male a cappella choir, is even more dramatic than the Barong. The chorus chants in percussive, rhythmic style reminiscent of a troop of monkeys. The drama was nearly upstaged by the venue: dramatic cliff-top Ulu Watu temple and the Indian Ocean sunset provided the backdrop.

The next 3 days were spent on neighboring Java. After an early morning flight we enjoyed a city tour of Jogjakarta, Java’s cultural capital. We employed becaks (peddle rickshaws) rather than air conditioned vans in order to directly support the local economy and to facilitate a cultural connection between our tour members and the becak drivers. We visited the Taman Sari water palace, an underground mosque, the famous bird market, and the Kraton, or Sultan’s palace. On the morning of day 4 we visited mighty Borobudur, the world’s largest Buddhist stupa/temple. The first glimpse of the huge stupa/mountain was breathtaking, even for those of us who had seen it before. Likewise Prambanan, our day 5 destination, was visually inspiring. The impressive 9th century Hindu temple complex rises majestically from the east Javanese plains.

An evening flight returned us to Bali and we set out for undiscovered Amed the next day. Along the way we visited the sacred Goa Lawah (Bat Cave temple), Tenganan Bali Aga traditional village, and engaged in our favorite cultural connection experience. We had lunch at a local guesthouse, Kebun Impian near Ujung. After relaxing by and in their lovely, seaside pool we had a delicious meal of local fish, perfectly barbequed over coconut husk embers. The guesthouse sponsors the local children’s dance group, young Balinese girls learning the traditional dances of their culture. We were able to observe their practice and then were treated to a performance by a master dancer, a graduate of their group. We observed her applying her makeup and putting on her costume as well as her exquisite dance. We continued on to Amed on one of Bali’s most remote and rugged roads. We passed rural villages which rarely see tourists (the children ran out to great our bus at every stop), corn and peanut cultivation, and stunning views out to the Lombok Straits and many scalloped, outrigger-lined beaches.

At Amed we enjoyed a full day on the sailing yacht Condor. Being on the water was exhilarating and gave us a unique visual perspective on the island. The snorkeling highlight was a visit to Tulamben, where a sunken ship in clear, shallow waters provides an artificial reef for colorful fish. After a free day of rest and recreation we continued on to Mt Batur, one of Bali’s active volcanoes. On the way we enjoyed endless vistas of emerald rice terraces and a visit to the island’s most sacred temple complex, Besakih. We arrived at Batur in mist and fog but were rewarded with a stunning sunrise the next day. Some of the more intrepid of our group arose early and hiked to the crater of the growing lava dome within the caldera to greet the first rays of the sun. From Batur we continued our journey south to Ubud, the cultural capital of Bali. While there we visited Lake Bratan, the Bali Botanical Gardens, the 15th century palace complex at Klung Kung, the sacred cave of Goa Gajah, the wall carvings of Yeh Pulu, and the 10th century funerary monuments of Gunung Kawi. We also participated in a temple water purification ceremony at the sacred springs of Tirta Empol for another connection highlight.

Departing from Ubud we visited the various craft villages south of town. They included Mas (woodcarving), Batuan (painting), Sukawati (masks and puppets), and Batubulan (stonecarving). We then visited Denpasarss sprawling Badung and Kumbasari markets before heading to our final destination: Tanah Lot. The extremely picturesque temple, located on a tidal island off Bali’s west coast, is rivaled only by its setting. The temple is surrounded by a dramatic, rugged coastline and serenaded by a crashing surf. We closed out our visit with a happy hour on the bluff overlooking the temple as the sun sunk in the western sea.

We had many other adventures and experiences both great and small. Perhaps the hardest to articulate is the experience of the Balinese themselves. They are a very contented, happy people – always ready with a genuine smile of welcome. The culture is extremely cooperative and community based and their Hindu animist religion imbues every aspect of their daily lives. It is easy to be engaged by or even enamored of them. Additionally we encountered tropical flowers and their attendant aromas at every stop. The entire Balinese experience was accompanied by the ubiquitous strains of the indigenous gamelan music. We loved our time there and are anxious to take another group of travelers to expose them to the richness of Bali. We are busy planning next years’ tour for April 2011. We’ll be ready to announce final details, dates, and rates by Aug. 1.

Taj Mahal

Any list of the world’s greatest sights would certainly include the Taj Mahal. Perhaps the most famous building in the world and considered by many the most beautiful. The Taj has inspired visitors for three and a half centuries. Poet Rabindranath Tagore wrote, “Let the splendor of the diamond, pearl and ruby vanish like the magic shimmer of the rainbow. Only let this one teardrop, the Taj Mahal, glisten spotlessly bright on the cheek of time.” Rudyard Kipling referred to it as “the embodiment of all things pure.” Emperor Shah Jehan, the man who built the Taj, said, “The sight of this mansion creates sorrowing sighs and makes the sun and moon shed tears from their eyes." The crowning jewel of Hindu-Islamic architecture, the Taj was built as a mausoleum for Jehan’s favorite wife, Mumtaz Mahal. In the centuries since its building, the Taj has become the world’s most revered monument to love. Mumtaz Mahal died giving birth to their 14th child in 1631. The emperor’s overwhelming grief is well documented in court records as well as in his personal writings. Jehan lost all enthusiasm for administration and instead immersed himself in the details of building the Taj. Construction took 12 years (10 more to complete the entire complex). The building required several engineering innovations such as a huge brick scaffold that mirrored the tomb, a 15-kilometer earthen ramp and special wagons to transport marble, and an elaborate post-and-beam pulley system for lifting the blocks into place. Building materials were brought from all over India and Asia: white marble from Rajasthan, jasper from Punjab, jade from China, turquoise from Tibet, Lapis lazuli from Afghanistan, sapphire from Sri Lanka, and carnelian from Arabia. Twenty-eight types of precious and semi-precious stones were used for inlaid decoration. The labor force consisted of 20,000 workers, countless specialists recruited from near and distant lands, and more than 1000 elephants.

The Taj Mahal’s symmetry, elegance, and perfect proportions are legendary. The visitor’s first view after entering the complex (a distance of about 400 yards) is truly breathtaking. The harmonious perfection seems to touch something of the eternal in the heart of the viewer. The basic design elements are Persian with a Mughal flair. The tomb sits on a square plinth and consists of a large, multi-chambered cube with chamfered corners (essentially an unequal octagon) topped by the famous onion dome, itself topped by a finial. Each of the long sides boasts a central, massive pishtaq (vaulted archway) framed by echoing, smaller, stacked pairs of pishtaqs. Stacked pishtaqs adorn the chamfered corners as well and four minarets anchor the plinth corners. The overall effect is beautiful serene, and majestic. But as is often the case with truly inspiring architecture, the Taj is equally impressive in its intricate details. The exterior is beautifully decorated by passages from the Quran in pietra dura inlaid calligraphy. The interior work is more delicate, with inlaid precious and semi-precious stones. Additionally, the cenotaphs of Jahan and Mahal are surrounded by intricately carved marble screens. The cenotaphs themselves are decorated with detailed inlays and calligraphic inscriptions.

The garden complex that surrounds the Taj is often overlooked but is beautiful in and of itself. A classic charbagh (Mughal garden), it contains lovely flower gardens and lawns, geometrically divided by reflecting pools and walkways. The impressive sandstone buildings that flank the Taj are a mosque and a Jawab. Jawab literally means “answer” and its primary purpose is architectural balance for the complex.

Myths about the Taj are many. The most common is that Shah Jahan planned a twin mausoleum across the river, a mirror of the Taj in black marble. It is a dramatic and fanciful concept, but unfortunately is not true. Nor is the oft repeated rumor that Jahan ordered the death or mutilation on the architects and craftsmen who built the Taj in order that its secrets remain a mystery. Other false legends include the Taj sinking, that it is a Hindu temple, and that the British ordered it to be demolished at one time.

India, a land of enchantment, boasts many impressive sights but the Taj Mahal stands apart. A British artist once observed, "It appears like a perfect pearl on an azure ground. The effect is such I have never experienced from any other work of art."

Borobudur

Borobudur is widely regarded as Southeast Asia’s second most significant archeological site (after Angkor Wat) and is Indonesia’s most popular tourist site. Once referred to as “a mountain of a thousand statues” it is a massive 8th-century Buddhist temple, the largest and most unusual in the world. It is the scale of the complex that most impresses. Borobudur is built from two million cubic feet of stone blocks, forming an enormous hill-like stupa (bell-shaped structure, symbol of enlightenment and shrine to the Buddha) of concentric layers. The base perimeter exceeds 1500 feet and the structure rises to a height of 115 feet. Six square terraces are topped by 3 circular terraces, all crowned by a single large stupa. Stairways lead pilgrims and visitors past 2672 carved panels, 500+ Buddha statues, hundreds of carved balustrades, and several ceremonially carved gateways. The dramatic setting of the temple mount adds to the experience. It is located in a lush valley surrounded by verdant mountains and two volcanoes. Although the enormity of the temple is impressive, the structure is equally intriguing for its design objectives and the details of its decoration. Seen from above, the hill temple portrays a colossal tantric Mandela, a model of the Buddhist cosmos in stone. Pilgrims visiting the complex are led by staircases and galleries on a metaphorical journey beginning with the Kamadhatu (world of desires), continues up through the Rupadhatu (world of forms), and arrives finally at the Arupadhatu (formless world). Borobudur is a 3D guide to Enlightenment.

The “Pilgrim’s Walk” begins with a series of relief panels on the base of the monument. All told, the monument contains 1460 narrative panels (and 1212 decorative panels; a total of 27,000 sq. ft.) in which sculptors have carved a virtual textbook of Buddhist doctrine as well as aspects of Javanese life 1000 years ago. As noted above, these first scenes depict the Kamadhatu, the physical world, with many images of passion and desire. The good are rewarded by incarnation as higher life forms while the bad are reincarnated as lesser life forms. Pilgrims next enter the Rupadhatu level, represented by the 2nd through 5th terraces. They follow the galleries in a clockwise direction, winding up terrace by terrace past hundreds of panels. The second terrace tells the story of the Buddha’s birth (Lalitavistara) plus some stories of his previous lives (Jataka) and stories of other legendary figures (Avadana). The Jataka and Avadana continue onto the third terrace but give way to the Gandavyuha, the story of the Buddha’s search for Perfect Wisdom which continues throughout the fourth and fifth terraces. The last three round terraces represent the Arupadhatu. Pilgrims ascend from the Rupadhatu level where men still interacted with forms (narrative panels) to the Arupadhatu level where decorations cease, symbolically representing the formless world.

In addition to the relief panels in the galleries, visitors encounter many statues of the Buddha. The statues, sitting cross-legged in the lotus position, can be found in niches throughout the first five levels of the temple. There are 432 statues on the lower levels. The three circular terraces are adorned with 72 small latticed stupas, each containing a Buddha statue. The peaceful Buddhas in their private bell-shaped stupas constitute the most iconic image of Borobudur. The crowning stupa is empty and there is no evidence to suggest what might have been originally held within.

There is no written record of who built Borobudur. It is estimated that its construction commenced around 800 AD and took about 75 years to complete. So too the facts surrounding its abandonment remain a mystery. Around the turn of the millennium the center of Javanese power shifted to the east and a series of volcanic eruptions rocked central Java. Many scholars believe this to be the time of abandonment but it may have happened when the local population converted to Islam in the 15th century. Borobudur was “rediscovered” by an expedition sent by the British Governor-General of Java, Thomas Raffles. The complex was completely covered by ash and vegetation and it would be 20 years before the entire temple mount was unearthed. Unfortunately, after its discovery by westerners, nothing was done to protect the monument and much damage was done by souvenir hunters (43 of original 504 Buddha statues are missing, 300 of those remaining are damaged, mostly headless) and by the hot and wet climate (after the protection of sediment and vegetation was removed). A restoration project from 1907-1911 cleaned the monument but did not resolve a drainage problem that threatened to undermine the structure. In the 1970’s a UNESCO restoration solved the drainage problem and stabilized the foundation and Borobudur was listed as a World Heritage site in 1991. Borobudur is visited as part of the 3-day Jogjakarta excursion on the Beautiful Bali tour.

Imprint's Northern India Tour Announcement

We are excited to officially announce Imprint Tours’ Incredible India tour. We feel we are offering the best 19 days of Northern India, including Varanasi, Khajuraho, Agra, and Rajasthan. We’ve written about many countries using the word “diverse” to describe them. But now that India is the subject we must revise the concept. India brings a new standard of meaning to the description. We will visit diverse landscapes, cities, architecture, archeological sites, religious sites and monuments, and even subcultures while touring India. Read on to get a glimpse of what we have in store. Two exceptional highlights of the tour include Diwali and the world-famous Pushkar Camel Fair, a desert extravaganza. We’ll enjoy Diwali on our first evening of the tour in Delhi. After our get-acquainted meeting and dinner, we’ll enjoy a coach tour of the city, occasionally participating in this grand celebration. Observed all over India, Diwali is the Festival of Lights. Originally a harvest festival, participants lit clay lamps and offered celebratory thanks to Laxmi, goddess of prosperity. Today the lights are electrical or pyrotechnic, gifts are exchanged, houses and buildings are lavishly decorated, and a carnival atmosphere prevails. Delhi is famous for its Diwali festivities and it will be a grand way to kick off our tour. Both Diwali and the Pushkar fair are determined by the lunar calendar and we are fortunate to be able to include them both on a single tour (not possible again for several years). The Pushkar fair is India’s most famous desert festival, as desert nomads come from all over Rajasthan to buy, sell, and trade camels and cattle. Many festivities accompany the gathering and we’ll enjoy the colorful spectacle of this desert pageant. There will be elaborately decorated camels, horses, and caravans and we can watch camel and cart races and other competitions. There will be music, traditional food, handicrafts, magicians, jugglers, dancers, snake charmers, and, as with Diwali, a carnival atmosphere. Both Diwali and Pushkar are events not to be missed.

Other tour highlights include the holy city of Varanasi, the Taj Mahal, the erotic temple architecture of Khajuraho, and the forts, palaces, and desert of Rajasthan. While in Varanasi we will visit the home of some local musicians (Varanasi is also known as a center for Indian music) for an evening of dining and music. We’ll take a boat ride on the Ganges at both dawn and dusk. At sunrise we’ll see the devout engaging in their sacred ablutions and in the evening we’ll attend India’s most famous aarti ceremony as the faithful bid good night to mother Ganga. Before departing we’ll day-trip to nearby Sarnath, where the Buddha preached his first sermon. Visiting the archeological site, museum, and several Buddhist temples will present an opportunity to learn about this ancient Indian religion. At Khajuraho we’ll visit the temples with their famous erotic sculptures, affording one of several occasions to explore the mysteries of Hinduism. Of course, no tour of India is complete without a pilgrimage to the Taj Mahal and we will also visit the abandoned Mughal capital of Fatehpur Sikri outside Agra.

In Rajasthan, in addition to sacred Pushkar, we’ll visit Jaipur, enchanting Udaipur, Jodhpur, and a resort operated by the Bishnoi tribal group. Jaipur is home to Amber palace, a fortress-like mountain retreat where we will ride elephants up the zigzag approach road to its mighty gate; Jantar Mantar, an 18th-century astronomical observatory; and the famous Hawa Mahal, or Palace of the Winds. Next on our itinerary is romantic Udaipur, our favorite city in India. Enchantingly situated on the shore of lovely Lake Pichola, Udaipur hosts two floating palaces as well as the many-tiered City Palace. In addition to a tour of the City Palace we’ll enjoy a sunset cruise on the lake. Then we’ll retreat to a lake-side, garden venue for dinner with Udaipur’s illuminated temples and palaces reflecting on the lake as our view. On a day-trip we’ll visit the formidable Kumbelgarh fort, a 15th–century fort situated in the Aravalli hills that fulfills your fantasies about Rajput grandeur. En route to the Bishnoi resort we’ll visit Ranakpur, an exquisitely carved Jain temple in a rugged valley. From the resort we’ll organize a cultural connection by visiting a Bishnoi tribal village. The Bishnois are India’s original environmentalists, maintaining a careful symbiotic relationship with their natural surroundings for centuries. Part of their stewardship has been the preservation of the local Blackbuck antelope. During our visit we’ll meet Bishnoi farmers, shepherds, and weavers; learn about their customs, lifestyles, and even observe a traditional opium ceremony; and visit the Blackbuck sanctuary. We’ll also venture out into the Thar Desert for a sunset camel trek and a traditional Rajasthani feast, attended by Rajasthani folk music and dance. While in Jodhpur we’ll explore the labyrinthine streets of the “Blue City” and tour mighty Mehrangarh Fort, greatest in Rajasthan and still owned and operated by the Maharaja of Jodhpur.

The sights and activities listed above are just the beginning. The tour will also include the major sights of Delhi, Akbar’s Mausoleum in Sikandra, Chand Baori step well, the temples and cenotaphs of ancient Orchha, Ajmer’s Red Temple, and more. In addition we’ll be organizing numerous other “connection” experiences such as a cooking demonstration, an ashram visit, a Tiffin lunch, a sari/turban “tying” lesson, a “Bollywood” movie night, and tea with our Sikh host in Jaipur, and a craft village visit. As you can see we’ll be busy. But as always on an Imprint tour we’re building in plenty of down time with a number of free afternoons to explore on your own or relax.

One thing every visitor to India learns right away – things are done on India’s terms, not the other way around. Even McDonalds, now that they have gained access to India, serves Vegi Burgers and Chicken instead of their classic hamburgers. So it is with our tour of India. Imprint values normally include modest, mid-range accommodations, an abundance of free time for exploring and personal cultural connections, and inclusion of about half of the meals on a tour. But we would rather bend to the dictates of Indian culture than be bruised by insisting on our normal style. This provides a great opportunity for us and you. India can easily overwhelm, and an equal need here is for occasional and timely insulation. We will continue to organize the best connection experiences possible and provide ample time for personal exploration, but we will also provide comfortable places of retreat. For accommodations, we will continue to use modest, family-run, well located hotels when they can be arranged but we’re also opting for extra luxury, in the form of four Heritage-style hotels (usually converted forts or palaces) at well-timed stops. Regarding meals, we will provide much more than usual - 40 meals out of 53 [all breakfasts and 22 of the remaining 35 meals]. By providing more meals than usual we can be surer of sanitary conditions, food quality, and good value. All these added values and still less than $190 per day.

Indian Religions

India is most certainly the most diverse nation on earth. Among the most prominent examples of its cultural variety are its many religions. India was the birthplace of two of the world’s major religions, Hinduism and Buddhism, is home to 140 million Muslims, and also hosts Jains, Sikhs, Christians, Jews, and Zoroastrians. India is home to the world’s largest Hindu temple, the mother temple of the Sikhs and Jains, one of the largest mosques in the world, and several of Buddhism’s most sacred sites. Religion remains a vital part of Indian culture today. A vast majority of Indians are active participants and religious tolerance is enshrined in law and practiced by custom. On Imprint Tours’ Northern India tour we’ll have opportunity to engage five of India’s major religions in significant ways. We’ll learn about Islam, Hinduism, Sikhism, Jainism, and Buddhism. For those of our readers not familiar with them, we think a short primer is in order. It seems most natural to begin with Hinduism, the religion we in the west most identify with Indian culture and the faith of 80% of the population. Widely regarded as the planet’s oldest active religion, Hinduism is not easily defined. Unlike other great religions it does not trace its origins to a single leader, does not have a holy book, and does not proselytize. Nor does it advocate the worship of a particular deity. Hindus believe in Brahman (not to be confused with Brahma below) the eternal, uncreated, infinite divine essence. The many gods of the Hindu pantheon are merely knowable manifestations of Brahman. Hindus believe that earthly life is cyclical. Humans are born and reborn (samsara) with the circumstances of rebirth determined by karma (conduct). Eventually an individual can gain enough self-knowledge to escape the cycle of reincarnation and achieve liberation (maksha). This tenet of Hinduism, which suggests one’s lot in life is determined by past action, has justified and reinforced India’s social caste system. Hinduism boasts a long tradition of extreme tolerance. Intolerance has never been widely supported and historical incidents were always politically motivated.

Although Hindus worship a vast pantheon of deities, the most widely worshiped are Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva. Brahma, the creator, created the universe and all life. Vishnu, the preserver, oversees the cycle of birth and rebirth and takes many forms. Famous incarnations include Rama and Krishna. Shiva, the destroyer, is the destroyer of evil in the world and has many faces, some of which are terrible. These and the other deities are represented by a huge variety of images and idols which symbolize varying aspects of the divine presence. With devotion to so many deities the Indian calendar is rife with a huge spectrum of Hindu festivals. These festive occasions keep Hinduism grounded in the emotional consciousness of the nation and make Indian culture rich and colorful - especially for visitors. One of the biggest and most colorful celebrations is Diwali, the Festival of Light. The timing of Diwali is determined by the lunar calendar and this year falls in early November, a perfect time for us to begin our November tour.

Despite the religious partition following independence in 1947, Islam remains a significant force in Indian life. The attempted segregation of the subcontinent was not completely successful and Islam remains India’s second largest religion. Moreover, so much of India’s history was determined or influenced by the Mughals (Muslim dynasty) that the Islamic impact on the fundamental fabric of Indian society cannot be underestimated. Unlike the other religions to be discussed below, Islam was not an offshoot of Hinduism. Islam proclaimed the brotherhood of mankind and the required submission to a single god, a novel religious vision for the subcontinent. Muslim invaders in the 12th century and Mughal rulers in the 16th and 17th centuries spread the concepts of Islam across India. Early on Islam was a militant, conquering religion but later mystics tempered its outlook and many Hindus were converted with a message of peace and universal love and a rejection of the caste system. During the golden age of the Mughal dynasties, a synthesis of Hindu and Muslim elements was promulgated and the flowering of a great society ensued as each side accommodated and enriched the other.

Muslims believe in the one god, Allah. They attempt to surrender their own wills to the will of Allah, which has been revealed by the prophet Mohammed and recorded in the Quran. Religious practice is based on Five Pillars: shahada (declaration of faith); prayer (5 times per day); zakat (alms giving); fasting (during Ramadan); and the Haj (pilgrimage to Mecca). On the tour we will visit Jama Mosque and the great Mughal architecture of Delhi and Agra.

Sikkhism evolved in northern India in the early 16th century and is a great example of the Indian capacity for accommodation and tolerance. Sikkhism was founded by Guru Nanak who was born a Hindu but was inspired by Islam. He preached a message of synergy between the two faiths, suggesting the basic teachings of the two creeds were compatible. Nanak’s teachings were eventually consolidated into the Granth Sahib, the holy book of Sikkhism. Sikhs are monotheists, believe in karma and rebirth, but oppose castes and advocate universal equality. Devout Sikhs wear five symbols of their faith: uncut hair, a special comb, wrist guard, breeches, and a sword (or dagger, which has created some difficulties for Sikhs in our age of strict security controls). During the tour we will be staying in a Sikh-owned hotel and hope to have a “tea time’ chat with our host.

A fourth Indian religion we’ll encounter is Jainism. The foundational philosophy of Jainism is that the rejection of worldly desires and self-conquest leads to perfect wisdom. They practice the purification of the soul via right conduct, right faith, and right knowledge. They advocate complete non-violence and sympathy for all living beings which has gained them widespread acceptance. Devout followers cover their noses and mouths to prevent the killing of even insects while breathing. We’ll visit the spectacularly carved Jain temple of Ranakpur in Rajasthan.

The final religion we’ll encounter has mostly died out in India, but had its birth here centuries ago. Buddhism, still practice throughout the rest of Asia, was started by Guatam Buddha as yet another offshoot of Hinduism. According to Buddhism, life is ruled by the laws of impermanence and causation. Everything is subject to change and nothing occurs by chance. The concepts of an immortal soul and rebirth follow from these two basic ideas and Karma is the driving force behind the occurrence of life’s events. The Buddha suggested the middle path, a balanced way of life between the extremes of self-indulgence and abstinence. Buddhism is founded on four Noble Truths: suffering is universal; it is caused by desire; it can be prevented by eliminating desire; and desire can be eliminated by following the Nobel Eightfold Path. The Path consists of living a life of right understanding, right intention, right speech, right action, right livelihood, right effort, right awareness, and right concentration. Successfully acting on these doctrines allows a soul to achieve Nirvana. We will have the great opportunity to visit Sarnath, a significant Buddhist pilgrimage site and the location of the Buddha’s first public sermon.

Magic in Bali

One of the most interesting and alluring aspects of Balinese culture is the very real place of magic in Balinese life. The roots of the phenomena are found in the island’s Hindu-Animist religion. Stone Age Balinese Animism, the worship of the spirits of nature and ancestors, has changed little even down to the present. In the 8th century, Mahayana Buddhism swept across Southeast Asia, and the Balinese blended the new religion’s most complimentary tenets with local animist practices. Hinduism followed in the early 16th century and like Buddhism before it, was blended with local practices. Today on Bali they still fervently worship the spirits of nature and the belief in evil and good spirits is universally held, which in turn leads to a preoccupation with magic - both black and white. The belief in magic and its manipulation permeates the actions, thinking, and rituals of the Balinese. It is an earnest matter to locals and not to be trivialized. Although its practice is not obvious to casual observers, visitors should be aware of its influence. Understanding this bona fide phenomenon helps visitors gain a deeper understanding of the highly ritualized nature of Balinese society. Examples are numerous. They include the ubiquitous preoccupation of ritual cleansing, offerings, amulets, ceremonies, and rituals as well as dance drama. The Balinese believe everyone has the capacity for good or evil (black or white magic). Everyone accumulates spiritual energy, called sakti. When a person’s heart is good the acquisition of sakti is applied to withstand evil influences. Some people have a greater capacity for sakti and become priests or shamans. Those with dark hearts use the sakti for harm. Adepts become Leyaks (roughly translated as witches). The Balinese preoccupation with ritual cleansing flows naturally from this universal belief in the influence of sakti. Additionally, understanding this belief system illuminates the islanders’ the obsession with offerings and ritual atonement. Many temple rituals include blood offerings and cockfights are part of atonement ceremonies. Preoccupation with sakti also explains the omnipresence of amulets and charms.

Probably the easiest opportunity for visitors to experience a magic ceremony in Bali is dance drama. Several of the most popular performances are originally based on some form of trance ritual. The inclination to trance is a permanent and widespread undercurrent of Balinese ritual and religious celebration. It is a relatively accessible way for gods to enter into human affairs. Everyone present participates as all feel the threshold between worlds to a greater or lesser degree. Trance ceremonies are always accompanied by music, a chanting choir, and incense to aid the process. Any dance that includes Rangda (the witch queen) will certainly include some elements of trance. As the embodiment of evil, Rangda must be controlled and defeated. The dancer playing Rangda enters a low level trance - for authenticity and for protection. The same is true of a performer characterizing the Barong (a creature of good). A very common tourist dance requiring true trance is the Kecak Fire Dance. The entranced performer is able to walk or dance barefoot through hot coals. Another, less commonly encountered trance dance is the Sanghyang Dedari (Angel Deity). In this dance pre-adolescent girls receive the spirits of sanghyangs (heavenly nymphs). For authentic temple ceremonies Dedari dancers are chosen for their proclivity to trance and engage in rigorous training. However, no dance training is allowed. While in trance they dance a relaxed version of the Legong, which normally requires months of training and practice. It should be noted that dance drama performed for tourists, while authentic, lacks much of the spiritual dynamism of those performed at religious ceremonies and Dedari performances for tourists are most certainly rehearsed.

A final example of the powerful place of magic can be observed in Bali’s history. One of the events most difficult for westerners to understand is the tradition of Puputan, or ritual suicide. Balinese history has several occasions where locals faced insurmountable odds and resorted to mass suicide. Outsiders are hard pressed to understand these events. But one possible insight is the consideration that the powerful belief in sakti explains the islanders’ actions. It has been suggested that Puputan was intended as an ultimate act of sacrifice, whereby a local ruler, powerless to avoid defeat, could in death summon the forces of the supernatural to aid his cause. It was an attempt to enlist a real and present spiritual power against their enemies.

Whatever our beliefs as western visitors to Bali, the fact remains that the Balinese themselves truly believe in magic and its active part in their everyday lives. Visitors would do well to respect that belief no matter their own perspectives. Moreover, understanding those beliefs illuminates one’s experience of so much of the ritualized elements of Balinese life. Attending a temple celebration, a cremation, or even a traditional dance drama has deeper meaning when one understands the spiritual underpinnings and fundamental belief systems.