>Although I just wrote about the tremendous value of Southeast Asian travel in May, having just returned from 10 weeks of tours in Europe I feel compelled to sing the praises of inexpensive Bali and Thailand once again. I love Europe as a destination and feel ever so lucky that I have the opportunity to work there with Rick Steves. But I must admit I was rather horrified at the prices this spring. A cup of coffee was regularly $3.50 to $4 (with current exchange rates). Italy continues to be an increasingly spendy destination with simple plates of pasta or pizzas now running $10 and up (at least the coffee is still excellent and, relatively speaking, cheap) and once inexpensive house wines creeping up into the $15 per liter range. Switzerland, always Europe’s most expensive country, has once again lurched ahead of its neighbors after the price gap had steadily shrunk over the last decade. And France, formerly the last refuge of great, inexpensive food, has also closed the price gap. Even wine by the glass, once a staple of French budget travel, is heading toward the $7 and up range. Dining is not the only place the traveler feels the “Euro squeeze.” A single-ride ticket on Venice’s vaporettos (water buses) is now almost $10 and Paris’ wonderful metro system had a recent price hike, approaching $2 for a single journey. Sights and museums are not exempt. Today’s traveler should expect to pay $12 and up for sights that only a few years ago cost $5-7.
It is not my intention to bash Europe – it remains a magical destination and a place of profound connections for all westerners. But in terms of shear value, it simply pales beside Southeast Asia (SEA). The value of the American dollar has fallen against all foreign currencies in the last few months. But while it has lost 9% against the Euro it has lost only 4-5% against SEAsian currencies (last 120 days: source: Oanda.com), reflecting a long-term trend. Inflation has hit SEA as well but travel commodities were such a tremendous bargain that they remain tantalizingly low for Americans. Boutique hotels for under $50, wonderful meals for $10-12, street food for a couple of bucks, and public transportation for pennies on the dollar compared to western destinations. While in Europe this spring I developed a taste for the relatively new, prepackaged, refrigerated coffee drinks (think Frappaccino). They cost about $2.25 in grocery stores and $4 at highway reststops. The SEA version, while smaller (probably 60%) cost about 35-45 cents. With inflation and the weakened dollar, one might expect to pay 50 cents today.
More than anything else, I simply love the freedom provided by the lower prices of all travel commodities in SEA. As a life-long penny-pincher, I appreciate not having to carefully weigh every spending decision. Will this sight be worth the entrance cost? Can I afford to splurge on the most expensive menu item in a restaurant? Should we picnic today to preserve our budget? I’d love a second beer but they cost almost $10 OR we have to find a bar with happy hour prices so our beer will only cost $5-6 (Paris, Italy). While traveling in Thailand or Bali, the cost of things is mercifully exempt from all such considerations. All this value for countries that are welcoming to visitors, extremely safe, have well-developed tourism infrastructures, and are exotic, fascinating cultural destinations.
Enchanting Bali (from June 2009 Newlsetter)
>The mere mention of the name Bali conjures up visions of a mystical island paradise in the western mind. From Rogers and Hamerstein’s musical “South Pacific” (dreamy Bali Ha’i) to Elizabeth Gilbert‘s “Eat, Pray, Love” the island holds a special place in western pop culture. Bali has been called the “enchanted isle”, “the last paradise”, and “the morning of the world.” It is indeed a beautiful tropical island bursting with bright colors, inspiring vistas, and exotic sounds and smells, inhabited by an artistic, sensual people with a storied history. But that describes many Pacific island nations. What is it about this tiny (5620 square miles) island that engages us so?
One answer is that Bali offers an experiential package that is unrivaled in the East. For generations travelers have visited South Pacific islands for beautiful swaying palms and golden sand beaches, India for its Eastern mystery, and more recently, China for its ancient culture. But only Bali offers all of these attractions in a single destination. It has been said that Asia and the Pacific meet in Bali.
Some of the imagery mentioned above can be traced in the island’s history. The first western visitors were shipwrecked Dutch sailors in the late 16th century. Upon their return to the Netherlands, the captain’s logs were published, creating a sensation in Europe. Images of lovely naked natives in a beautiful tropical setting engaged and titillated the Dutch public and the notion of Bali as a tropical paradise was born. That image was fortified in the last century by numerous European expatriates who have made Bali home. Many wrote memoirs or histories of Bali, extolling its many virtues. In the 1930s the Dutch began to promote Bali as a tourist destination, adding to the mystique. Backpackers created a new kind of tourism in the ‘70s and middle class tourism discovered Bali shortly thereafter.
So it is not hard to trace the origins of the Balinese image. But additionally, we are happy to report that the contemporary experience of the island stacks up beautifully to the hype. A visit to Bali can only be described as enchanting. It is captivating in its small and personal connections. Bali is not a sight-driven destination. Travelers do not find grand buildings and soaring ancient monuments. Instead, it is a destination of experience which involves an intimate connection to Balinese life. Whether visiting a temple or village, enjoying a performance, or attending a temple festival visitors are treated as honored guests. One is consistently welcomed with a smile and slight bow of the head whether entering a restaurant, stopping to observe a craftsman at work, or entering a temple compound. One never feels like an intruder in any way.
It is the living, active culture of Bali that calls to western visitors. One appealing element of Balinese life is the ever-present Gamalan music. Whether live at a performance or recorded in restaurants and hotels the lilting strains transport the westerner to another realm. This primarily percussive music is at once melodic, ethereal, exciting, and often haunting as it adds a layer to the mystical feeling of the visitor experience. Perhaps the most engaging, memorable aspect of Balinese culture is the experience of traditional dance-drama. Performances, available everywhere, have evolved from religious rituals and retain their spiritual significance even when performed for tourists. The elaborate costumes and makeup, stylized movements and symbolic gestures, and pulsing Gamalan accompaniment transport the viewer to the realm of mystic story-telling. Balinese religion is also accessible. Temple architecture is not monumental but it is beautiful and boasts a wide variety of intricate decoration. Visitors are always welcome at temple festivals and even at cremation ceremonies.
A final element of Balinese allure is the friendliness of its people. It is hard to overstate this honest pleasure. One is greeted everywhere by sincere smiles and welcoming gestures. The hospitality feels authentic because it flows from genuine contentment. The Balinese people seem to be very happy with their island paradise. As they go about their lives, conducting business, making offerings, attending ceremonies, creating music or dance, or cultivating rice they do so with open hearts. Even the most menial tasks are done with lots of spirited conversation and laughter. At every encounter visitors are honored, welcomed, and engaged. One can hardly avoid being drawn into the contentment – and why would we want to?
Value, Value, Value (from May 2009 Newletter)
>Southeast Asia is one of the globe’s best travel values. In real estate the accepted dictum is: “Location, Location, Location.” For Southeast Asian travel the mantra is: “Value, Value, Value.” The three big-ticket items in any travel budget - transportation, accommodations, and food - are very inexpensive. A 45-minute taxi ride is $10-12. Clean, well located, comfortable, air-conditioned accommodations are readily available for under $40 (half that if you forego the air-conditioning). An excellent restaurant dinner with drinks can easily be had for $10 and street vendors can provide a delicious meal for $1. Even international airfares, previously a deterrent, are now comparable to European airfares*. Moreover, budget airlines are proliferating in Southeast Asia making internal flights very affordable.
Travelers today face an environment of rising fuel and food costs, plummeting dollar values, and an ailing economy. We need to be very careful about where and how we allocate our resources. Up until now, American international travel has been dominated by Europe. Forty years ago European travel was exotic, inexpensive, and the province of either the wealthy or backpackers. In the interim, rising American affluence has made European travel a middle class endeavor viewed almost as an entitlement. However, in the last five years European inflation combined with falling dollar values has made Europe a very expensive destination. Southeast Asia offers a wonderfully affordable alternative.
In the last year and a half, most major travel publications have featured several articles about how to travel more frugally in the current economic environment. All have suggested selecting better value destinations and Southeast Asia is at or near the top of those lists. On Dec. 9, 2007 The Seattle Times’ Carol Pucci featured Southeast Asia in her “Travelwise” column. The title was, “S.E. Asia Makes lots of Cents for U.S. Travelers.” Of Bangkok, she wrote, “The dollar, although worth less than a year ago, still packs more buying power here than in Europe.” On July 21, 2008 Eliza Bates of the Associated Press wrote an article titled, “Budget Bangkok: 15-cent trains, $1 Meals.” The article began with, “Thailand’s tropical capital is teeming with budget options for the penny-pinching traveler.” Both articles go on to list multiple examples of Thai bargains.
The relative value of the Thai and Indonesian currencies is another reason why Southeast Asia is such a good value for American travelers. The exchange on those currencies has remained more favorable than the Euro. From April 2007 to April 2008 the dollar plummeted by more than 17% against the Euro. During that same period, the dollar lost less than 5% of its value against the Baht and Rupiah. Any way one approaches the issue Southeast Asia is a great value.
Beyond the necessities of travel, the low prices in Thailand and Bali make them shopping paradises. Tremendous bargains are available for every budget. Travelers find the usual selection of tourist merchandise: T-shirts, hats, prints, jewelry, clothes, and a staggering array of handicrafts. Handicrafts range from embroidered clothing and bags to paper umbrellas and fans, lacquerware, silver, local textiles, batik, masks, and carved soap. Some of the most popular items are the “knock-off” fashions available in the larger cities. Serious shoppers might consider antiques, tailor-made clothes, furniture, or stone and wood carvings. Additionally, Thailand is one of the world’s leading exporters of gems and ornaments and Thai silk is considered the best in the world.
We at Imprint Tours believe Americans are ready for a new travel frontier and we believe it is Southeast Asia, a part of the world about which we are passionate. Thailand and Bali are beautiful, fascinating, and accessible destinations. They boast fantastic architecture, World Heritage sites, incredible and varied natural beauty, rich artistic heritages, friendly cultures, and well-established tourism infrastructures. It just so happens that Thailand and Bali are also two of the globe’s great travel bargains.
*from the west coast
Bali R&D Trip Nov. 2008
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Upon arriving at Denpasar’s airport I immediately picked up on many familiar impressions. The first was the heat. The last time here we’d been in tropical Asia for a couple months and there was not adjustment necessary. But coming from cold, overcast November Seattle was more of a shock. We later learned that Bali experiences a few short weeks each year when the temperature spikes from their well-advertised year round 85 degrees. Turns out one of those brief periods falls in Nov., just before the rains set in. So for our first week we experienced temps in the high 90s.
A much more pleasant reminder was the temple right in the airport. Bali boasts thousands of temples so one sees them virtually everywhere. The familiar “split gate” entrance and pagoda-like meru were welcome sights and took me right back. The second pleasant reminder was how friendly the Balinese people are. Everyone smiles all the time. One is always pleasantly and genuinely greeted – from the passport control, visa issue, and baggage check to the currency exchange and taxi line-up. Everyone was engaging and ready to help.
We passed up the official taxi line and bargained with a driver hanging about for a fare. We bargained good-naturedly and knocked off close to 50% from the “official” fare. Our driver was pleasant with his limited English. He told me which mobile phone company would best suit our needs and pointed out a place to buy the appropriate chip near our hotel. Once away from the airport we were assaulted with the distinctive smells of Bali: tropical flowers, roasting meat with eastern spices and clove cigarettes (not so nice but distinctive and memorable).
Familiar sights greeted us as well. We saw the traditional red pants and hats among most of the taxi drivers at the airport. We were immediately reminded that the Thais drive on the opposite side of the street form us. Signs for Bintang beer reminded us of our favorite chilled beverage – soon to be tasted. We passed many vendors selling the colorful fabrics of Bali along with the usual tourist fare: T-shirts, swim suits, sun block, and souvenir trinkets. New sights included Starbucks, McDonalds, and KFC (in Kuta).
We checked into the hotel we’d booked. It was a high-end budget place with simple, AC rooms, basic but private bath, and a pool for Maia. Quite a step up from our budget days. I love how the Balinese take so much pride in their architecture. Even this budget hotel had traditional architectural appointments: carved doors, decorative masks, and stone statuary throughout a central garden. I tripped going up the stairs to our room, reminding myself that regular, even stairs are a western phenomenon.
After checking in we went out to explore the neighborhood. The tourist economy is obvious as the streets were lined with warungs and restaurants, Losmen and Hotels, Circle K (convenience) stores, travel agents, clothing stores, and market stalls selling every souvenir imaginable. Right away we encountered the ubiquitous practice of tiny offerings being places in front of shops, homes, hotels, and temples at all times of the day. Keeping the gods happy is a full-time pursuit in Bali. Even though Bali has been greatly developed over the years, one is quickly reminded to watch your step for broken pavements and the various flotsam of a rural culture gone urban.
Our first days were spent looking for hotels and restaurants to use for the tour. Some of our fondest recollections of Bali were the family compound style accommodation we’d enjoyed. So naturally we sought hotels with that same kind of authentic character. As we visited many locations I was reminded of how commonly volcanic materials are used in construction here. Tufa-like bricks are very common for their ease in production and carving. Flowers are a common motif, hardly surprising in the tropics. With the exception of Kuta, the rest of Bali seems committed to keeping their traditional culture alive in their architecture. So pleasant. Then there are the modern adaptations that don’t quite make the grade (in my opinion). I’m thinking of the plastic aquarium I found mounted over a urinal in the airport. I have to give points for creativity and uniqueness.
As we traveled around the island I was struck by the Balinese love for ostentatious, public art. In most towns of size there is at least one monumental statue, usually some Hindu deity, at a major intersection or entrance. I’m starting to understand that there is, at best, only a blurred line between art for life and life as art here. Balinese culture is so enveloped in ceremony, performance, sacrifice, and devotion. In a way that I’ve never experienced anywhere else, these elements seem to be a part of every day and every person’s life – not just dusted off for big festival days. There are statues everywhere – from the huge ones mentioned above to smaller, private garden versions. They are venerated, dressed, and adorned with flowers all the time. The creation and giving of votive offerings is truly a constant, daily activity for all.
We ventured out to Amed on the east coast of the island. It is much less developed than other beach areas. The beaches are not golden sand like Sanur, Kuta, or even Lovina and Candidasa. Instead they are pebble beaches. But the lack of commercial tourist crush is refreshing and the scalloped coast is striking. Multiple inlet beaches are lined with colorful outrigger canoes with eyes painted on their prows. Between the half dozen villages the landscape is dominated by palm trees. The drive from Selang (southeastern-most village) to Ujung was very windy and slow but allowed a glimpse of what remains of authentic Balinese village life and many stunning vistas. We saw many children working or going to school and women shucking corn or doing other tasks. Everyone was friendly and eager to have their picture taken.
The drive from Amed back west across the slopes of Gunung Agung afforded repeated views of emerald rice terraces glinting in the sun. As the guidebooks say, it defies ones ability to find new words for description (verdant, lush, vernal, luxuriant). Mt Batur was shrouded in mist but nonetheless dramatic as we arrived at the lip of the caldera. We could pick out glimpses of the silver lake below and occasional clearing of the clouds allowed the lava dome to briefly appear. We were ever so pleased with the Lakeview hotel perched on the caldera rim. It provides a comfortable venue for the group to enjoy the sunset/sunrise. The brisk mountain air was a welcome change.
Having accomplished our goals for Batur we headed south to Ubud. More remarkable rice terrace views and several wood carving villages made the drive interesting. We settled into our hotel room at Nick’s Guesthouse as the day’s light was failing. Ubud has grown tremendously in the last 15 years but seems to have retained its essential character. A comment I can add for Bali in general. There are many, many more hotels, restaurants, and shops but one can easily slip away from the bustle by leaving the main roads on any alley – soon you are wandering through rice fields of climbing down steep, secluded feeling river valleys. It is quite remarkable really.
Ubud was full of memories: finding hot tea in a vacuum pot on your porch each morning, banana pancakes and fresh fruit for breakfast, misspelled signs like “taksi”, and the sounds of performances every night. Lots of great, creative restaurant options, the well-organized tourist information office, and plenty of activities to engage in. At the Circle K I found Birdy canned coffee, a delight I discovered in Thailand last year. In a country where coffee is less than stellar, this was a welcome find. We had nasi goring and mie goring in the market like old times and roasted suckling pig at a famous warung near the main temple. Maia and Julie attended a performance of Barong/Legong and reported it is still as visually stunning and authentic as we remembered. Ubud is just high enough for it to be cooler than the coasts: still hot during the day but pleasant evenings. Maia and Julie shopped in the market while I nursed a sore back one day and we all spent lots of time in the pool. I also indulged in a beijing massage 3 of the 4 days here. It cost about $8 and the girl came to the hotel and worked by the pool – heavenly!
We met with Dewa, a transport contact from Intrepid who turned out to be a great resource. He took me around to hotels and restaurants and introduced me to local guides. When I turned up lame (back) the second day he volunteered to take me to a traditional healer. I went willingly. I had quite the experience. The man’s name was Kokrai and thereafter, when I told any locals of my experience they all knew of him. Dewa arranged everything, which included driving me 15 minutes or so to another village and arranging an offering (which contained about $10). Kokrai was very old, maybe late 70s. He examined me more by touch than by question, using his hands and fingers. He had me lie on my back and he pinched my little toe with a stick – it really hurt and I squeaked more than once. He than had me twist my torso while he poked the heal of my other foot with his stick. Then back to the toe (ouch!). Then he had me sit up and stretch forward. While I sat he kneaded my neck, back, and shoulders. Then he asked me if I wished him to make me some medicine. He spoke English but also pantomimed how the medicine would be applied (although I didn’t understand at the time). I said yes so he made up the medicine. He chopped up several different herbs on a little chopping block on a table, put them in his mouth and chewed them up for a while, and then spewed them out on my lower back. The rest of the herbs he added to some oil and told me to apply it to my back each morning. I thanked him and we returned to Ubud. It was a fascinating experience and I must admit my back loosened up considerably as the day wore on and I recovered, day by day, much quicker than usual.
As was the case on our first visit 15 years ago, one of the most pleasant aspects of Bali is its people. They seem to be irrepressibly smiling, engaging, and friendly. At our first hotel in Kuta we met a family of wife, husband, and young daughter who was enamored of Maia. They spoke little English but were still able to communicate their genuine interest in us, our reason for being in Bali, and their wishes for us to enjoy their island. And once the “conversation” turned to newly elected President Obama, they beamed with pride and expressed their excitement and optimism for all or our futures. Mr. Obama is held to be one of theirs in Indonesia, having lived in Jakarta in his youth. We found the name Obama to be the ultimate language barrier buster as its mere utterance elicited handshakes, smiles, and enthusiastic thumbs-ups. It is quite clear that the new president holds near messiah status here. We were already happy about his election but the special enthusiasm we encountered on Bali added to our excitement and expectation of a promising future. The globe is truly shrinking.
We concluded our R&D excursion excited about the prospects of introducing groups of our American clients to the wonders and beauty of this tropical paradise.
Maia' Bali Impressions
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I thought Bali was very interesting because there were lots of different foods to try. My favorite was chicken satay. I kept having it every day and it was so good but never quite as tasty as the satay we had in Chinatown in Bangkok Thailand. Even though I wasn’t very excited about the sights they were amazing and interesting in their own way. On the way out of Tanah Lot we came across two old women selling sticky rice things. I didn’t know what they were but of course my dad made my try them. My parents liked them but I really didn’t that much. Another food I enjoyed was roasted corn on the cob from Mt Batur. It was roasted over coals, buttered and salted. It was the best corn I’d ever had.
There were a few sights I did like. Like Ulu Watu. It was very interesting because there were wild monkeys everywhere. You had to be very careful because the monkeys would steal anything that caught their eye. The temple on the cliff was beautiful. Tanah Lot was another fun temple because I had fun floating flowers down the stream while my parents looked at the sights. One of the other highlights for me was Tirtagangga, a water temple that had pools, fountains, and lakes. Part of the time I was skipping along stepping stones in one of the pools. The rest of the time I was swimming in the freezing cold pools that had lots of fish.
Shopping was great. I had a lot of fun picking out dresses. There were so many exotic dresses there that I could look at and beg my mother to buy for me. I really had a great time, except the fact that it was very hot.
One of my favorite parts to the trip was that almost every hotel we stayed in had a swimming pool. I got to swim in them almost every day. I liked them all but my favorite was in a small hotel in Jogjakarta where there was a long, rectangular pool that I got to swim in in the rain. Normally in Seattle it would be far to cold to swim in the rain. But in Bali it was always hot enough. On the last day in Jogja, before we went to the airport, my father and I went to an arcade with lots of video games. I had a great time there. I’d never actually been to an arcade before. We went to the bird market and I really didn’t enjoy it because there seemed to be so many animals that seemed to be suffering. They were all in small little cages. It smelled bad and it was so hot so I recommend that if you like animals you should not go to the bird market.
One of the places that I went with my family was Waterbom Park. It was a water park with slides. My favorite ride was the Macaroni Tube. You climbed a tower to a waterslide, got on an inner tube, and go down the slide. At first you were in the open but suddenly you went into a tunnel. It was very scary the first time I went but after it became my favorite. At the end you’d splash into a pool. A couple days later we went to Treetops Adventure park – a ropes course. I got in a harness that had pulleys and hooks. Then I walked over to the practice area and slid down a mini zip line, landing on a net at the end. When I was done practicing I went on the real course, starting with level two. It was very scary at the beginning with long zip lines and walking very high up in the trees. But I was always attached with my harness. I made it to level four, the highest I was allowed. Then we left and went to a little shop to have lunch. I felt something sticky and gooey on my leg. I pulled up my skirt and looked to see what it was. At first I thought it was a slug. But when I tried to pull it off it stuck there. It was biting my leg, it was a leech. It was small and harmless but still disgusting.
On the way home at the airport I was looking at my dad’s backpack and suddenly something green moved. I realized it was a gecko that had hitched a ride on the pack. I told my dad and he shook it off gently. I scared him into a corner so he wouldn’t get stepped on and then he scurried up the wall to safety. Apparently, he wanted to go to America!
Maia Coen (age 10)
First Jogja Visit 1993
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Aug. 2 – Prambanan
We easily caught a bus headed for Solo since they leave about every 10-15 minutes. Within ½ hour we were gazing upon the tall spires in the distance. Getting inside the complex was a more confusing task. Nothing was marked well so once permitted to enter an outer gate we strolled through the souvenir stalls and right in the exit with hardly a word of resistance. The Japanese and French tourist groups dispersed enough for some “all alone at the sight” looking photos. We climbed up into a few of the temples dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu, and Brahma. Much of the complex had collapsed by the last century and was only reconstructed partially starting 1937. Blocks of the former splendor lie all around the reconstructed temples some day to be reassembled if the puzzle can be re-imagined.
Aug. 3 – Borobodur
We decided sunset was a better time for Borobodur so we walked to the bus stop and squeezed on a crowded bus. We arrived at a good time in the late afternoon and wondered the monument without many crowds. The structure itself is magnificent. Six levels rise up to the three bell-shaped stupa rows. Like a giant intricately decorated wedding cake the temple rises out of the palms with the mountain range behind. The sun was filtered through a large cloud cover giving dramatic highlights to the background range. Circumambulating the lower tiers I was able to have a more solitary experience, appreciating the headless Buddhas, fragments of relief illustrations of Buddhist teachings, and the setting sun. Above I hadn’t noticed that the stupas contained anything until I saw two which had the top removed to reveal a sitting Buddha figure. I then peered through the latticed stone to see that they all had a Buddha figure. Most of them were headless but the head was no longer within the stupa. When, how had they been removed? The tourist groups thinned out and we enjoyed the view of the entire monument from down below on the lawn just as the sun beamed out to highlight the stone . . . just beautiful.
First Bali Trip 1993
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Excerpts from Julie’s journal:
Sunday Aug. 8 -
“It was a pretty drive back along the coast and cutting inland up the hill we passed a waterfall and continued to gain altitude and lose temperature. The air became quite cool. We stopped to watch the families of monkeys frolicking and grooming on the roadside with a peak through the trees at the lake below. This was a smaller body of water that we passed by to arrive at
Aug. 9 – Ubud
Ubud itself came up gradually from the east starting with some temples on the outskirts in rice paddy land. The road onward was dotted with art galleries then more densely with shops and restaurants. Very quaint and artistically oriented the streets were much smaller than I’d expected and charming side lanes led to Losmen tucked behind big Balinese archways into pretty landscaped gardens with bungalow-like rooms with inviting patios to relax and have tea in. We settled on the second guesthouse we saw and headed out for lunch. After a pleasant lunch of gado-gado, nasi goreng, and fruit juice Reid retreated to our bungalow to rest [a touch of
Aug. 10 – Ubud
The roosters band together forming a chorus at daybreak. The Balinese like all Indonesian we’ve experienced rise early and the boy was already sprucing up the grounds and bringing us fresh hot water for tea before we emerged from our mosquito canopy. The mosquitoes aren’t too voracious here but it’s a nice security blanket to be tucked inside the net. Today we wanted to see some of the sights in the area so we set off walking down
Aug. 12 – Ubud (eastern
On down the coast we turned our motorcycle inland a few kilometers to Tenganan, reputed to be the island’s oldest village. It is on display within the town walls. For a small donation one mey enter and stroll the long strip of land bordered with walled houses with long work pavilions down the center. Each of the houses now has their beautifully woven ikat cloth for sale, a tradition existing only in few remaining villages. The quality is exquisite. Ikat cloth is woven with threads pre-dyed to a pattern which is determined before it is woven. Double ikat is simply twice as complicated – the warp and the weft are both dyed in the predetermined pattern. We journeyed on past Amlapura, an attractive little town, to Ujung water palace. It was so quiet and peaceful as men painted dugouts, tended the fields, and stared at us with great curiosity. The abandoned water palace of the Raja of Karangasems was impressive. One could imagine the grandeur of the 1920’s complex with majestic stairways leading up to a crumbling pavilion overlook. Leaving the coast we headed uphill to our temple destination of Besakih. On the way we passed Tirtagangga, another better-kept water palace of terraced pools, fountains, and statues. We continued to climb heading back west toward Besakih. Between Selat, Muncan, and Rendang lay the day’s best scenery. As we climbed you could still see the water below and the rolling green hills. The cool mountain air reached us as we motored through more lush, green rice terraces and past panoramic view spots. We arrived at Besakih, the mother temple, at the end of the afternoon. The temple crowns a hilltop and is in good condition compared with many places of worship on the island. The grande4st, highest, largest Mt Agung revealed itself behind the temple as the cloud cover parted for few minutes as we were leaving. We rode down and back to Ubud as the sun set behind some more clouds on the horizon.
Aug. 14 – Kuta (Ulu Watu)
One more adventure tour with a rented motorcycle. After escaping the traffic of Kuta and the airport we headed down a small potholed road into the Bukit Penninsula. We passed through small villages and out to the
Aug. 16 – Cremation
Musicians led the parade followed by several paper mache temple decorations hoisted high, the cremation bull and the throne carrying the body inside. We followed along and climbed up the hill crowding and positioning with the rest for a good vantage point. The wrapped body was lowered into the bull’s cavity and anointed with holy water and many other offerings. From the glance I got at the head, this was the body of an elderly woman. Several other elders gathered on a mat below the cremation pyre for a series of prayers then larger offerings of elaborate paper decorations were placed beneath the bull and secured with large palm trunks. When they needed more wood they just cut down another small palm near the clearing . . . and the gamelan music played on. The sales didn’t stop during the preparatory rituals either. Cold drinks, bananas and table clothes still made the rounds. Women chanted below us as Reid moved so I could record the event. Two large gas torches were brought in and the bull and its passenger went up quickly in flames. I think I was more moved than anyone else. Reid even mentioned that the natives seem to have an acceptance for death as a logical end to life – cremation is just a necessary step to send the spirit onward. The bull was turned around several times by its corners in the procession to confuse the soul. The funeral tower containing the body is bounced, shaken, and spun as well as run all the way from the deceased’s home to the field. If the soul has not been sufficiently confused it might find its way back home. Since a funeral is an expensive affair the bodies are often buried for months or even years until the cremation can be afforded. Funerals are supposed to be fun in
Tanah Lot
Once past the tourist stalls of souvenirs we gazed out at the dramatic cliffs and saw why the spot is renowned as the most spectacular. It really is stunning and as we walked down the headland a ways we saw Ulu Watu in the far disctance.
Tour Changes
>Imprint Tours - Travel with Intent
Our Thailand photo tour partners at Photography Center Northwest have requested some changes to the January 2009 tour. The primary change is a shortening of the tour from 18 days to 14 days. Cambodia and Angkor Wat will be dropped from the itinerary. Due to rapidly rising transportation and food costs and in response to customer feedback, we are also shortening our 2009 non-photography Thailand tour to two weeks. Tour participants who have already registered have been notified of the changes. The website will reflect the changes and new tour dates by week's end and complete details will be posted in the July newsletter.
>In the fall of 1997 Reid Coen was the guide for our first European tour. He was employed by Rick Steves Europe Through the Back Door, whose philosophy of travel is to immerse the traveler in the culture and the history of the country and give that traveler the skills to travel anywhere in the world by themselves if they so choose. Since this was my first travel experience with a guide, I had no benchmark by which to judge Reid's skills or expertise. After three additional tours with this same agency, I have come to realize that Reid is a truly gifted individual who was part of an exceptional travel company. Our travel time on the bus was occupied with instruction in the history, current events, culture, language, and the monetary system of the country we were about to visit. After a few days of travel, Reid's skills as a group leader brought a bunch of individuals together as a cohesive and well functioning group. We were all appreciated for our uniqueness but learned to respect our responsibilities to the group. Our travel itinerary was well organized and communicated verbally and in the written word which was posted at our accommodations and, if we were in transit, on the bus. This does not imply that Reid was inflexible; if the opportunity arose and we could take advantage of a special event, Reid could creatively make arrangements to take advantage of a situation. Thanks to his creativity, my wife and I had the opportunity to take a romantic gondola ride in Venice and toast the city with a glass of champagne in the center of Piazza San Marco.
In April of 2006, we joined Reid and his wife, Julie, for a tour of Greece. In the interim between our first and last trip with Reid his exceptional skills as a tour guide had been honed to a high level of expertise. However, since this tour was to take place under the banner of RC Touring (now Imprint Tours), he was able to correct the few drawbacks of our first tour with him. On the Greece tour our accommodations where much more comfortable and his choice of establishments for our group meals were always a gastronomical delight. The years between our first and last trip together had mellowed Reid like a fine wine. He had retained his wonderful sense of humor, infectious laughter, creativity, curiosity, sense of awe, and personal warmth. Reid has become a great friend, not merely a gifted guide.
Roger Johnston
Imprint Tours Launching New Site
Imprint Tours is launching their new website on April 25th. Check back soon for more info, entries and links to the new site!