Egypt: Day 4 by Maia Coen

Cairo is hectic.  There are people everywhere you turn and there are street peddlers all over the place.  It’s not unlikely for the traffic to be at a complete standstill and  like the persistent call of an annoying bird the honking never ends.  Trying to cross the street is like trying to paint a picture in the dark.  Your only hope is to thrust yourself into traffic at the most appropriate time and pray that the drivers know what they’re doing.   Sitting and relaxing in a café seems impossible due to all the hassling from the street peddlers.  That’s why it was quite shocking to be able to do just that today. The day consisted of a synagogue, the Coptic museum, and the hanging church all in old Coptic Cairo.  The churches were interesting and the museum was filled with interesting artifacts like books of papyrus but the highlight of the day occurred in a little restaurant just three minutes from the museum.  After our guided tour from Hoda we were set loose for 45 minutes to peruse the artifacts on our own.  My dad and I decided we had had enough of the museum for now so we left the grounds and walked through the neighborhood.  There were many little convenient like shops around, all selling things like water, potato chips, and juice.  We asked someone where we could get coffee and were pointed to the only restaurant in the area.

There was a nice square canopy shading the outdoor sitting area from the sun and we sat down in woven chairs with red cushions.  The owner came out and welcomed us with a big grin on his face and when we asked for coffee he replied with “best coffee in Egypt!” and it was.  We sat and sipped our coffee while people walked by in the street.  Not a single person came up to try and sell us something.  There was a nice breeze and the temperature was perfect.  We stayed for as long as we could before we needed to head back to the group.

We all regrouped and headed for lunch.  Hoda led us along the street and stopped right at our little coffee place.  My dad and I laughed and said hello to our server again.  The food was excellent.  There were two options, falafel with dips or a chicken sandwich wrap.  I had the chicken sandwich.  There hasn’t been anything I haven’t liked in Egypt but I hadn’t had something I just loved until now.  The wrap was crunchy and hot and the chicken inside was perfectly seasoned, the two parts together created the best meal I’ve had so far.

It was a very good day.  Though I may not have been too engaged by the day’s official activities that moment in the restaurant and that amazing lunch put me in good spirits.  We headed straight for the airport when we were finished eating.  On to Luxor…

Bread, Bread, and more Bread. Brown, Brown, and more Brown

Back in the developing world!  Maia and I alighted in Cairo about 7PM after the usual  grueling 26+ hour, 3-leg journey from Seattle.  Getting out of the airport was slow but uneventful.  I changed money at the state bank kiosk in the arrivals area and procured our visa “stickers” as well.  The immigration control line was long and slow, but our moment at the window was just that, a moment.  Then it was time waiting for bags, clearing duty control, and out to experience the gauntlet of taxi drivers at the door.  A seasoned bargainer, I had no trouble getting a fair price into the city.  Then it was the usual hair-raising cross between Formula One and demolition derby race into the city.  You can read about that adventure in Maia’s blog. We stayed in the Windsor Hotel, a former 19^th century British ex-pat club that boasts a threadbare echo of past glories.  The dilapidated, manually operated elevator and the cable and pin operated telephone switchboard are both still in use.  Our room had very high ceilings, a functional bathroom, and a wooden balcony one felt compelled to test carefully before using.  The ancient dusty television had bedraggled rabbit ears and a single faded picture adorns the walls.  The view from our balcony was debris strewn rooftops, other dilapidated buildings, and a male-dominated sidewalk café scene defined by hooka pipes, backgammon, and bawdy laughter.  But the beds were comfortable enough and I had a sentimental attachment – I had stayed here in 1997 on my first visit to Egypt.  The faded glory of the British empire lives on in the atmospheric bar.  The half barrel chairs and ceiling fans are right out of a Hollywood movie.  In fact, it has been used for that function.

Breakfast the first morning consisted of bread, bread, and more bread.  But the coffee was hot enough and I was able to order an omelet.  We stored our bags at reception and headed out to the Citadel, an icon of the Cairene skyline.  Built by Saladin in the 13th century, the crumbling but massive fortress is an impressive sight.  There is little of real interest within its walls, but the Mosque of Muhammed Ali is impressive and the view over Cairo is the city’s best.  Looking out over the sea of minarets, domes, and brick buildings the overall impression is . . . brown.  Egypt is brown – the buildings, the mosques, the paving stones, and even the polluted air of Cairo (a mere 20+ million Cairenes).  This is the ultimate urban jungle.  But the people are genuinely friendly with many greetings of “Welcome in Cairo”.

I imagine many travelers, those who require the American standards of comfort and cleanliness might be put off by Cairo’s extremes.  But for me the constant background chorus of horns, the dusty air, the obstacle-course sidewalks, and intrusions of street peddlers and touts is not unwelcome.  In fact, it stirs in me the spirit of real, close to the ground travel.  This is real travel – Travel with Intent, and the reason I leave the comforts of home.  To experience not an Epcot inspired faux version of Egypt, but the real thing, with all its in-your-face excesses.  Bread, bread, bread; brown, brown, brown, but also boisterous, bountiful, and breathtaking.

[My apologies for the lack of photos.  Egypt is proving to be challenging when it comes to bandwidth.]

Egypt: Day 3 by Maia Coen

Although the great pyramids of Giza are the most well-known and popular of the pyramids there are many more in and around Cairo.  Our day started with a trip to the bent pyramid and the red pyramid.  The bent pyramid was named because as it was being built the people realized that the angle they were using would not support the structure so they changed the angle half way through.  This created a bent effect towards the top.  Behind the bent pyramid was another smaller pyramid said to have belonged to the queen.  It was less preserved and had started to crumble to a point where it was difficult to tell it was a pyramid from certain angles.  My ever rebellious father ventured to climb the small pyramid.  The security guards with us seemed to be alright with this but said “quickly” once my father was up others followed until many of our group were at the top taking pictures.

We continued on to the red pyramid.  This one got its name from the use of red granite in its construction.  I spent little time looking at the outside as I headed straight for the entrance.  The tunnel leading into the pyramid was steep and small.  I was required to bend over quite drastically.  The descent put a strain on my leg muscles.  As we got further into the pyramid it became hotter and I began to sweat.  By the time I got to the bottom I felt like my legs were made of rubber.  Stairs awaited me.  I climbed them slowly and came to a room that had a ceiling that came to a point, what you would expect from the inside of a pyramid.  The room smelled strongly of ammonia and I was unable to stand it too long.  Although the inside of the pyramid itself was not all that amazing I had the distinct feeling of going back in time.

We went for an early lunch before continuing on.  So far the food here has been very good.  I have been eating falafel at least twice a day and I’m not yet sick of it.  It is so much better than anything you could get at home.  The meals consist of falafel with many different dips including tahini, baba ghanoush, tzatziki, and small salads.  There have been several kinds of roasted meats including chicken, pork, and beef.  The dish kofta, like a lamb sausage without a casing, has been abundant.  With the meals no matter what it is there has been bread, and rice or French fries, or both.  I’m unable to determine if this is what the locals eat or if they serve us French fries because we are Americans and they believe we would die without them.

Our next destination was a mosque.  We walked through a very crowded market like area unlike the city streets of Cairo but more like a village or town.  We removed our shoes at the mosque and the woman in our group lined up to our their hijabs (head scarves) put on by our guide Hoda.  Everyone tried to do it themselves but after failing several times resigned themselves to be helped.  She expertly wrapped them around our heads and put pins in to hold them.  Once sufficiently covered up we entered the mosque.  We gathered near a stylized niche inside and Hoda told us about Islam.  She spoke of how Muslims come and pray several times a day and how if you are doing well with money the religion requires that you give away 2.5% of your savings to others in need.  There are not many violent crimes in Egypt due to the fact that everyone helps each other out.  I found this incredibly interesting and so refreshingly different than the United States.  The reason the women cover themselves is that they believe their body is a gift and when you have a gift you must protect and cherish it.  The mosque was not all that impressive but the things that Hoda told us had a great impact on me and I would say learning these things about the Muslim people was the highlight of the day for me.

We left the mosque and entered the market. It was a tourist hub, when there are tourists.  There were venders selling any souvenir you could think of.  Snow globes, camel statues, little pyramids, scarab beetles, and so much more.  A personal favorite of mine was the small delicate perfume bottles.  We stopped in the center of the market area and entered a side alley.  We were led to a local tea shop and sat down in wooden chairs around tiny round tables.  We all ordered tea, coffee, or fresh fruit juice and sat back and enjoyed the atmosphere.  It was lovely.  We were right in the middle of the action.  People bustled around and venders trying to sell to the people (not so lovely).  Many of our neighbors were lazing around smoking hookah pipes and enjoying the social time.

After a while of just sitting and talking my father and I got up to go better explore the market area.  We went out on a quest to find a snow globe and possibly a few other cute if not slightly tacky souvenirs.  It was a success after only a few minutes of looking and quite a lot of time bargaining.  We found what we were looking for.  Lastly it was time for dinner in Azher park overlooking the citadel.  The view was wonderful and the weather was finally cool.  It was a lovely end to a busy and eventful day.

Egypt: Day 2 by Maia Coen

Egypt: Day 2  

The day began with an excursion to the Egyptian museum.  The ride there was significantly less daunting than the previous days due to the fact that it was Friday, the start of their weekend, and there was much less traffic.  The Egyptian museum is practically bursting with artifacts and statues and anything else you could think of from ancient Egypt.  We were told it would take two weeks to see it all.  That of course was an exaggeration but the museum is very plentiful.  Our wonderful guide Hoda took us through the most interesting parts of the museum and gave us excellent history lessons on every selected piece.  Though the museum is plentiful, without Hoda it would have quickly become repetitive.  Without a guide it is difficult to know what you are looking at and I could see how one could get bored easily when there is no provided information.

The king Tut exhibit was a much anticipated highlight.  There was a room dedicated to the things found in his tomb including a plethora of golden amulets that were tucked between the linens of his mummy, canopic jars that originally contained his organs, and of course his famous golden face mask.  The amount of wealth left in his tomb was astounding.  Everything was pure 24 caret gold and many objects were inlaid with precious stones.  We learned that his tomb was actually quite small since he was a child king who only ruled a few years.  Imagine how much wealth would have been in the tomb of a king of 50 years? Once Hoda was finished with her tour we were released for an hour of free time within the museum.  My dad and I opted to visit the mummy section.  Ever since 6^th grade when I learned about ancient Egypt I have wanted to come to Egypt.  I did my main project on the process of mummification.  It was amazing for me to see real mummies in the place where they came from.  Seeing something up close and personal is always so exciting when you’ve been looking at it in textbooks for so long.

After a nice lunch of falafel and kabobs the group piled onto the bus and headed for the pyramids.  I was jumping up and down by the time we were inside the gates.  And there it was; the great pyramid of Giza.  It was bigger and more magnificent than I could have ever imagined.  The stones were the size of me and they climbed up and up and up.  It is impossible to look at a picture and comprehend the true magnitude of it.  The pyramid was the color of Egypt.

Once finished with the great pyramid we went on to briefly visit the small and medium sized ones to take photographs.  Those who wanted to were able to enter the small pyramid.  We continued on to a panoramic view of all of the pyramids and prepared to ride camels.  I took my photos and made my way to the camels.  I’ve heard a lot about camels from my parents and their experiences.  I was wary of being too close to their faces on account of them possibly nipping at me.  I reached up and grabbed the knob on the box-like saddle they donned and pulled myself up.  I held on tight as the camels back legs came up and I was thrust forward and then as the front legs came back I was thrust backwards.  If you’re not holding on you’re not staying on.   As the camel began to move along in the sand I held on tight and hoped for the best.  I am so glad I did it.  I was high up, I could see the pyramids, and I was simply happy to be able to say I have ridden a camel.  The ride was quite easy and short and I enjoyed every minute of it.  It is definitely something I would recommend and do again, as long as it was not more than half an hour.  I got some beautiful pictures of myself on the camel with the pyramids in the background.  The perfect tourist experience.

We ended the day with a trip to the Sphinx.  It too was spectacular.  I learned that the lack of a nose and other features was not in fact from the French using it as target practice as I had previously been informed, but actually due to erosion.  Much less sexy.  I took a selfie with the Sphinx and was overjoyed with the day’s events.  An important thing to mention about Egypt is since everything became so tumultuous here Americans are afraid to visit, as I’m sure you’re aware.  I assume because of this I am a constant item of interest to the Egyptians.  They stare quite openly and the bolder of them ask to take a picture.  I say yes every time, happy to make them happy.

I’ve been photographed without being asked, I’ve been photographed after being asked, I’ve been asked to take pictures with others, but today something even crazier happened.  A woman approached me and asked me to hold her newborn baby for a photograph.  I was shocked but took the baby and posed for several pictures.  She said thank you and took the baby back and I was left unable to comprehend what had just happened.  After this I can’t imagine anything stranger could occur. I have been in Egypt for two days and I have already seen so much.  What a way to start the tour.

I’m unbelievably exhausted, the air is filled with pollution, and my hair is completely covered in desert dirt but I have never felt more engaged in travel as I did today.

Egypt: Day 1 by Maia Coen

  I arrived in Cairo last night after a grueling 26 hours of travel time.  I know I’m supposed to be writing about today but let me first tell you about my first night in Egypt.  Once out of the airport we hailed a taxi and sat back to enjoy the ride.  No seat belts were offered and no air conditioning was available, only open windows and a motor that sounded like it was on its last legs.  The seats were covered in duck tape and it looked like the meter hadn’t worked in years.    I have seen my fare share of traffic laws or lack thereof in my time but nothing has been quite like this.  The taxi driver weaved through traffic like a mad man laying on the horn at every moment.  He went through spaces an American driver would never dare to go through, weaved between busses making me wish our car would flatten like the bus from Harry Potter, and he only had one hand on the wheel, all the while blasting Egyptian music.  The side view mirrors, obvious causalities of the driving environment, were battered and cracked.  It was absolutely terrifying and I found it best not to watch.  If you can make it from the airport to the hotel in Cairo you can make it in Egypt.

Today I awoke to the Muslim call to prayer at 6:00.  Once packed up my father and I made our way to the breakfast room and waited for instruction.  There was no buffet, no menus, no one to ask if we would be getting served, and nothing that indicated we were going to get fed at all.  A woman finally appeared and fixed some things on the other side of the room and left.  I’m certain she saw us there but proceeded to come in and out of the room before acknowledging our presence.  When she came back for the fourth time she was carrying food.  She placed it on our table with indifference and walked away.  To put it simply our breakfast consisted of bread, bread, and more bread.  After our meal we headed back to the streets of Cairo to engage in another death defying journey through the traffic.

Our destination; The Citadel.  The fortress perched on a hill in the city center is a popular tourist attraction.  The fort itself is not overly impressive but certainly worth a visit.  The high walls were a deep burnt orange color that seems to be the norm here in Egypt.  Within the fortress there is a place where a broken clock tower stands overlooking the well sculpted architecture.  The story of the clock goes back years ago.  In Paris there is a beautiful large white obelisk standing overlooking the city.  This obelisk was taken in ancient times from Egypt.  In return for this magnificent obelisk the French gave the Egyptians a clock.  The clock never worked.  This was not a fair trade, to say the least.  After our pictures were taken and we were thoroughly satisfied with our visit we left the citadel.

We entered the streets in yet another taxi cab and went on to our next hotel.  This hotel was quite an upgrade from our previous one.  First of all this hotel had real opaque curtains.  Secondly it had air conditioning that didn’t sound like an obnoxious car engine.  Lastly the beds were comfortable and had good solid headboards instead of thin metal ones.  I settled into the new hotel and took a nap before returning to the lobby for our first tour meeting.  Everyone got acquainted or reacquainted and everybody laughed.  We had a nice buffet dinner with plenty of different options.  The day felt like it lasted forever due to jetlag, the heat, and the constant onslaught of dust in the air.  I was more than happy to return to my hotel room after such an exhausting day.  It was an excellent start to the trip and I can’t wait to see what happens next.  Now to the pyramids…

Vietnam By Maia Coen

The first thing I noticed when we arrived in Vietnam was how busy it was. Hanoi was alive with people and energy, the stores were colorful and inviting, the food looked amazing, the people were happy and welcoming, and the crazy traffic made me fear for my life. There were more motorcycles than cars which made crossing the street challenging. When traffic lights turned green the swarming bikes surged forward like cattle engulfing any pedestrians unfortunate enough to still be in the crosswalk. We were instructed to cross streets walking at an even pace or we would ceartinly be run down. Steady movement allowed the bikes to weave, swerve, and avoid pedestrians. It was terrifying and I had to suppress my natural instinct to run. Throughout the trip the food was phenomenal. It never failed to surprise and excite me and I never got tired of it. Everything was unbelievably fresh and well prepared. The Banh mi sandwiches were a favorite of mine. The bread had the perfect crunch, the ingredients were flavorful and tasted like they had been picked that morning. Each meal was wonderful and I never ceased to be amazed. I just loved how there was so much variety. I never got tired of the Vietnamese style like you might get tired of Thai food in Thailand. Every meal was different. Possibly the most important part of the trip for me was the people. They were kind and welcoming to us. They smiled and talked to us when they could. They were always excited to sell us something but they were never rude. I don’t think I spoke to a single person who wasn’t accommodating and engaging. I had been a bit worried that the Vietnam War would have tainted the local's attitudes about Americans. However, there was absolutely no animosity between the Vietnamese and American people. I think that’s beautiful. They believe the war is in the past and they choose to be kind and compassionate towards us instead of bitter or resentful. If I learned anything from my time there its that Vietnam is a country, not a war.

Life Insurance Included By: Maia Coen

[From Imprint Tours Myanmar tour, January 2015]

Our first destination in Myanmar was the Golden Rock. We had heard much about it and were inspired by the pictures available online. The Golden Rock is exactly that, a rock placed so precariously and unusually that the people believe it could have only been placed there by a divine force. Believing it to be sacred, they built a temple upon its crown and painted it entirely in gold.

Our flight arrived early in the morning in Yangon, where we were still very far away from The Golden Rock. After a leisurely early lunch we took a taxi to the bus station, a short 20 minutes away. It was a hubbub of activity with busy people bustling all around.

It was more of a market that happened to allow buses to pick up and drop off. There was a long line of buses surrounded by various stands selling a variety of products. Fruit, toys, water, clothing, and pretty much anything else you could ever need. The air was filled with dust kicked up by all the commotion and the smell of gasoline from the running busses. We made our way to our designated station and asked for instructions. We were told to sit and wait and they would tell us when our bus arrived. The room, if you could call it a room, had no front wall and barely one in the back. We gingerly sat down upon a bench and began our waiting. I had my first, and certainly not last, experience with Myanmar’s squat toilets during the waiting period.

After a seemingly endless wait, probably only about an hour and a half, we were told that our bus was here and that we may climb aboard. I couldn’t help but think "finally!" We boarded the bus and I went to our designated seats while dad talked to the bus driver about the ride. He came back to the seat looking sheepish as if he knew he was about to tell me something I would not like. He proceeded to tell me that instead of the three hour bus ride he had promised it would be a five hour ride. I groaned and tried to settle into the seat with less legroom than an airplane and imagined I was anywhere else. Luckily the ride was only four hours which was a blessing in itself. Throughout the ride we had hoped to get some sleep because it was some ungodly hour of the morning at home and we were exhausted from jetlag. Just as I had closed my eyes I heard the loudest horn I have ever heard in my entire life. Not once but five times. The driver weaved in and out of other vehicles and laid on the horn like it was a dying person that needed to be revived. And it was loud, so loud, the whole ride. And as if the horn were not annoying enough, for the majority of the trip there was an irritable TV show playing on a mounted television. It was loud and obnoxious and in another language. Needless to say we did not get any sleep. When we arrived I clambered off the bus as fast as I could happy to be able to move my legs. We asked for directions to the golden rock and were told to "walk that way and this way" to get somewhere. Obviously, the instructions were not very specific. Their English isn’t great in Myanmar. So we grabbed our bags off the bus and headed up the hill toward our instructed destination.

We learned we were only in the staging town for the Golden Rock. Unfortunately it was not the best of places. There was trash covering the ground and the smell was rather unpleasant. On a plus side the street food was excellent. After asking another person for directions we came to a kind of loading station with a bunch of truck-like vehicles. The vehicles were big open-backed trucks with rows of long benches for sitting. We placed our bags in the back and climbed aboard. The seats were thin and hard, it felt like I would fall off with the slightest motion. Once we were packed like sardines into the vehicle the engine started running and we were off.

As we were leaving I made the mistake of reading the sign posted above us. It listed the prices and then "Life Insurance Included." As if that wasn’t terrifying. With that sign in mind we began to climb up to The Golden Rock. It was high up at the very top of a steep winding road. There were steep inclines, high speeds, hairpin turns, and the not so occasional bump in the ride.

We were holding on for dear life as we bounced around in the back of the truck. The only possible way to explain what it was like is to refer to the Indiana Jones ride in Disneyland. It was exactly like that only there weren’t seatbelts. After an hour long thrill ride we were finally on top. The Golden Rock was in sight. We descended the metal ladder and wove our way through the masses of locals to our hotel. We quickly got checked in, dropped off our bags, and headed straight to the rock. We were determined to get there before the final daylight was lost. We reached the entrance of the temple grounds and were told to remove our shoes. We did so and continued on trying unbelievably hard not to think about what we were stepping in. The whole area was a bit touristy with lots of colorful flashing lights. It looked like Disneyland and Las Vegas got tangled up together. We finally approached the Golden Rock and looked up at it for the first time. It was incredible! The light was perfect and the rock illuminated. It really was unbelievable that such an enormous rock was sitting right on the edge of a cliff so perfectly. It looked as if it would fall over with a single nudge. There were hundreds upons hundreds of worshipers. Holy men in their robes, poor people preparing to camp or sharing a meal, there were people rubbing gold leaf on the rock itself, and they were preparing to light thousands of oil lamps in some sort of light ceremony. The whole scene was an awesome spectacle. And we were the only westerners present. The people were clearly not used to seeing westerners so we were the object of much curiosity. With my blond hair I was a popular photographic subject. We walked around the temple area for a while longer and looked at the rock from all possible angles before heading back into the main area for dinner. We picked the more authentic of the two available restaurants for dinner and settled in. We ate from small plastic chairs and round tables. We ordered two dishes and shared them. One was called hot and dry chicken and it was amazing. We weren’t sure if it was chicken or something else entirely but it was absolutely delicious and we never found it again after that night. We retired to our hotel room after a long day and did little more than wash our feet before we fell into bed.

In the morning we packed up all over again and set out to get back down the mountain. The loading area was even more crowded in the morning. When a truck arrived to bring people down there was a mad dash for a seat. People shoved and pushed and had no regard for waiting in line. After I realized I wasn’t going to get on the truck by being my usual polite self I proceeded to shove my way to the front and climbed into an available seat with dad right beside me. We began our journey down and started our eventual four hour bus ride until we were back where we started in Yangon ready to start the tour. We probably spent about an hour and a half actually viewing the Golden Rock compared to the almost 12 hours it took us to get there and back and it doesn’t even matter. Travel makes a trip and it sure was an interesting one. It was tiring, and uncomfortable, boring and downright irritating but I will never forget it. Even though I only spent an hour and half with the Golden Rock it was absolutely worth it. It was an incredible experience that I would do again in a heartbeat. Bend like a willow right?

Phong Nha Cave

Heading south from Hanoi to central Vietnam, we opted for an overnight train to maximize our time and value.  After freshening up and breakfasting in Dong Hoi, we headed out for the days’ big attraction:  Phong Nha Cave in Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. The great cavern is accessed via the Son River.  We boarded two long covered boats at the village of Son Trach.  Like every landscape in Vietnam, the boat journey was quite scenic as we motored our way up river.  Eventually, the quite wide river disappeared altogether into the gaping maw of Phong Nha.  The name means “Cave of Teeth” but unfortunately, the entrance stalactites are long gone.  But once inside the visitor is transported to a magical realm.

The boat captains cut the engines and paddled or pushed the boats for about a kilometer into the dark heart of the mountains.  I’ve been in many caves and always find them interesting.  But this one was unique – my cavern experiences never included drifting silently along on an underground river.  It was somewhat surreal.  Multiple and various sized stalactites hung from the ceiling high overhead like icicles.  Lights illuminated the many bizarre formations:  cauliflowers, curtains, sponges, grills, and frozen flows.  The local guide kept up  a steady stream of commentary on the cave’s formation, history, uses, and “named” features.  But I have to admit I checked out early and just let the experience flow over me (pun intended).  Eventually he stopped talking and we enjoyed the otherworldly ambiance in near silence – accompanied by only the soft rhythm of the boatman’s paddling.

After 20 or 30 minutes of drifting along, we were dropped at a landing.  It was another unique experience to step onto a soft, crunchy sand beach – all inside.  Our guide took us on a short, meandering, undulating underground hike to show off more of the cavern's features.

These included an ancient Cham alter and many formations that required lots of imagination and the power of suggestion to see squirrels, angels, turtles, and the obligatory phallus.  All standard fare in a cave visit, but always fun.  The cave itself tunnels back into the mountains another 35 miles.  But we were content to explore only the first few hundred meters or so. Eventually we climbed a last series of stairs to emerge 30-40 feet above the cave’s river mouth where we had entered.  Some of us climbed up to a hilltop temple above.  The views were great as we gazed back down the lazy track of the river.  Clambering back down to another landing, this one in sunshine, we reboarded our boats and motored back downstream to our waiting bus and another huge local lunch arranged by our guide Bon.

Halong Bay

Day 3 of our Vietnam tour was the most spectacular of the trip.  Our destination was the stunning, world-famous Halong Bay:  2000+ karst islands scattered throughout the green water of the Gulf of Tonkin.  As is so often the case, the local name for the bay is poetically appropriate.

Ha Long translates to “where the dragon descends into the sea.”  In fact, local legend suggests the islands were created by a dragon.  Descending from the mountains in a rage, the mystic creature gouged out rifts and valleys with its slashing tail and when it finally hit the water it settled on the bay floor leaving only the spines of its horny back exposed.  Of course the geological explanation is far less dramatic.  But however Halong was created, the result is spectacular.  This mystical geography was designated a World Heritage site in 1994 and is listed on virtually every version of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World.

After a pleasant drive past rice patties and wheat fields we arrived at Halong City where we boarded our sailing junk for our overnight on the bay.  The boat was quite comfortable with a big dining salon illuminated by wrap-around windows.  A small deck area in front of the salon became the favorite gathering place for drinks and drinking in.  The top deck, with a double row of reclining deck chairs was another popular refuge during our 24 hours on the water.  The cabins were plain but comfortable, each with a private bathroom and shower.  As we were to find every single day in Vietnam, the food at lunch and dinner was elaborate, varied, delicious, visually creative, and copious!

After our meals we mostly dropped groaning onto one of the deck chairs (or onto our cabin beds in some cases).

We needn’t have had any activities during our day of sailing.  Simply sitting on deck, breathing the fresh salt-sea air, listening to the calls of many varieties of birds, and taking in the scenery was all the entertainment we needed.  But Halong is famous for its caves so we made a visit to Hang Sung Sot, or Surprise Cave.  A long climb up stairs from the dock was rewarded by wonderful views back across the cove where our junk was anchored. Then we were guided by our escort Bon through the interior labyrinth.  The walls sparkle with crystals, stalactites and stalagmites bristle, and great cauliflower rock growths graced the various chambers.  For adventurous early-risers, there was an opportunity to kayak the next morning.

After the kayakers returned and we had another huge meal for breakfast we headed back toward Halong City.  Bon made sure our captain took a different route home so we could enjoy as much of the bay’s scenery as possible.  Arriving back in Hanoi mid-afternoon, we had time to refresh in our hotel day-use rooms before heading out for Water Puppet Theater, one of Vietnam’s premier performance art forms.  Puppet theater seems to be pretty standard throughout Southeast Asia, but this waterbourne version is certainly unique.  Puppets and puppeteers perform in a large tank of illuminated blue water.  Art reflects life, traditional rural Vietnamese life that revolves around water.  Ducks, frogs, dragons, and fish share the liquid stage with human figures in the stylized dance of life on the water.  Courtships evolve, business is transacted, land and water are worked.  The entire panoply is accompanied by a live orchestra and the performance is liberally punctuated with smoke, fireworks, explosions, bells, and whistles.  It was a fun!  A perfect sendoff for Hanoi and the north.

Tam Coc

On day two of our Vietnam tour we loaded up in a big air-conditioned coach and headed southeast to the Ninh Binh region.  An hour’s drive brought us to Hoa Lu, sight of one of the ancient capitals of Vietnam.  In this case, the seat of government for the Dinh and Le dynasties.  Only scattered ruins remain of any imperial buildings, but two major temples remain.  The first, Dinh Tien Hoang was built by the Dinh dynasty in 970 AD.  It contains impressive bronze bells and a statue of Emperor Tien Hoang.  Vietnamese temples are not nearly as grandiose or impressive as other Southeast Asian cultures, but they are interesting nonetheless.  The second temple was built by the Le ruler, Dai Hanh in 100 AD.  It too houses a kingly statue, this time surrounded by ceremonial weapon, drums, gongs, and lesser family effigies.

One of the things I most appreciate about my tour partners in Southeast Asia is the quality of the guides they provide for Imprint tours.  For Vietnam our guide Bon was excellent in every way.  His command of English, including idioms and humor, was excellent.  He regaled us with stories about both his own life and Vietnamese culture in general.  His inside stories and keen insight provided just what we value at Imprint – gaining genuine understanding about the cultures we visit.

He was tireless in seeking out extra experiences and value for us, arranging many meals and optional activities.  He was a fun and fun-loving travel companion and seemed not to tire of spending time with us.  On free nights he often organized dinner for those interested in visiting a local favorite with Bon.  In a place like Hoa Lu, sights that were not jaw-dropping in their physical aspect were brought to life by his knowledge of history and ability to weave a story.

The real star of Hoa Lu is the stunning natural backdrop.  To get the most out of the scenery, we had arranged an easy going bike ride.  After the temple visit we all geared up and pedaled for about 75 past mountains, rivers, rice patties, and farms to Tam Coc.  Often called the “Halong of the Land.” the jungle-draped karst towers that are the signature features of Halong also dot the countryside of Tam Coc.

After a lunch break we engaged in one of the most unique boat trips in my traveling experience.  We were rowed, two per boat, up and back along a 2 kilometer stretch of the Ngo Dong River, surrounded by karst scenery, rice patties, and limestone cliffs and outcrops.  The passing view was breathtaking and we passed through the three caves that give Tam Coc (Three Caves) its name.  But it wasn’t the scenery or even the excitement of silently paddling through the inverted stalactite forests of the caves that made this river journey unique.  It was the paddling itself.  The locals have perfected a unique method of rowing – they use their feet.  With almost prehensile use of their feet, they row the boats with great skill.  Talk about a fun photo op.  Amazing!

After our unique and scenic afternoon paddle, we piled back onto the coach for the journey back to Hanoi.  For those interested, intrepid and energetic Bon took a group into the Old Quarter for the best Pho in Vietnam (according to Bon).