Halong Bay

Day 3 of our Vietnam tour was the most spectacular of the trip.  Our destination was the stunning, world-famous Halong Bay:  2000+ karst islands scattered throughout the green water of the Gulf of Tonkin.  As is so often the case, the local name for the bay is poetically appropriate.

Ha Long translates to “where the dragon descends into the sea.”  In fact, local legend suggests the islands were created by a dragon.  Descending from the mountains in a rage, the mystic creature gouged out rifts and valleys with its slashing tail and when it finally hit the water it settled on the bay floor leaving only the spines of its horny back exposed.  Of course the geological explanation is far less dramatic.  But however Halong was created, the result is spectacular.  This mystical geography was designated a World Heritage site in 1994 and is listed on virtually every version of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World.

After a pleasant drive past rice patties and wheat fields we arrived at Halong City where we boarded our sailing junk for our overnight on the bay.  The boat was quite comfortable with a big dining salon illuminated by wrap-around windows.  A small deck area in front of the salon became the favorite gathering place for drinks and drinking in.  The top deck, with a double row of reclining deck chairs was another popular refuge during our 24 hours on the water.  The cabins were plain but comfortable, each with a private bathroom and shower.  As we were to find every single day in Vietnam, the food at lunch and dinner was elaborate, varied, delicious, visually creative, and copious!

After our meals we mostly dropped groaning onto one of the deck chairs (or onto our cabin beds in some cases).

We needn’t have had any activities during our day of sailing.  Simply sitting on deck, breathing the fresh salt-sea air, listening to the calls of many varieties of birds, and taking in the scenery was all the entertainment we needed.  But Halong is famous for its caves so we made a visit to Hang Sung Sot, or Surprise Cave.  A long climb up stairs from the dock was rewarded by wonderful views back across the cove where our junk was anchored. Then we were guided by our escort Bon through the interior labyrinth.  The walls sparkle with crystals, stalactites and stalagmites bristle, and great cauliflower rock growths graced the various chambers.  For adventurous early-risers, there was an opportunity to kayak the next morning.

After the kayakers returned and we had another huge meal for breakfast we headed back toward Halong City.  Bon made sure our captain took a different route home so we could enjoy as much of the bay’s scenery as possible.  Arriving back in Hanoi mid-afternoon, we had time to refresh in our hotel day-use rooms before heading out for Water Puppet Theater, one of Vietnam’s premier performance art forms.  Puppet theater seems to be pretty standard throughout Southeast Asia, but this waterbourne version is certainly unique.  Puppets and puppeteers perform in a large tank of illuminated blue water.  Art reflects life, traditional rural Vietnamese life that revolves around water.  Ducks, frogs, dragons, and fish share the liquid stage with human figures in the stylized dance of life on the water.  Courtships evolve, business is transacted, land and water are worked.  The entire panoply is accompanied by a live orchestra and the performance is liberally punctuated with smoke, fireworks, explosions, bells, and whistles.  It was a fun!  A perfect sendoff for Hanoi and the north.

Tam Coc

On day two of our Vietnam tour we loaded up in a big air-conditioned coach and headed southeast to the Ninh Binh region.  An hour’s drive brought us to Hoa Lu, sight of one of the ancient capitals of Vietnam.  In this case, the seat of government for the Dinh and Le dynasties.  Only scattered ruins remain of any imperial buildings, but two major temples remain.  The first, Dinh Tien Hoang was built by the Dinh dynasty in 970 AD.  It contains impressive bronze bells and a statue of Emperor Tien Hoang.  Vietnamese temples are not nearly as grandiose or impressive as other Southeast Asian cultures, but they are interesting nonetheless.  The second temple was built by the Le ruler, Dai Hanh in 100 AD.  It too houses a kingly statue, this time surrounded by ceremonial weapon, drums, gongs, and lesser family effigies.

One of the things I most appreciate about my tour partners in Southeast Asia is the quality of the guides they provide for Imprint tours.  For Vietnam our guide Bon was excellent in every way.  His command of English, including idioms and humor, was excellent.  He regaled us with stories about both his own life and Vietnamese culture in general.  His inside stories and keen insight provided just what we value at Imprint – gaining genuine understanding about the cultures we visit.

He was tireless in seeking out extra experiences and value for us, arranging many meals and optional activities.  He was a fun and fun-loving travel companion and seemed not to tire of spending time with us.  On free nights he often organized dinner for those interested in visiting a local favorite with Bon.  In a place like Hoa Lu, sights that were not jaw-dropping in their physical aspect were brought to life by his knowledge of history and ability to weave a story.

The real star of Hoa Lu is the stunning natural backdrop.  To get the most out of the scenery, we had arranged an easy going bike ride.  After the temple visit we all geared up and pedaled for about 75 past mountains, rivers, rice patties, and farms to Tam Coc.  Often called the “Halong of the Land.” the jungle-draped karst towers that are the signature features of Halong also dot the countryside of Tam Coc.

After a lunch break we engaged in one of the most unique boat trips in my traveling experience.  We were rowed, two per boat, up and back along a 2 kilometer stretch of the Ngo Dong River, surrounded by karst scenery, rice patties, and limestone cliffs and outcrops.  The passing view was breathtaking and we passed through the three caves that give Tam Coc (Three Caves) its name.  But it wasn’t the scenery or even the excitement of silently paddling through the inverted stalactite forests of the caves that made this river journey unique.  It was the paddling itself.  The locals have perfected a unique method of rowing – they use their feet.  With almost prehensile use of their feet, they row the boats with great skill.  Talk about a fun photo op.  Amazing!

After our unique and scenic afternoon paddle, we piled back onto the coach for the journey back to Hanoi.  For those interested, intrepid and energetic Bon took a group into the Old Quarter for the best Pho in Vietnam (according to Bon).

New Imprint Deposit and Payment Policies

Dear Imprint Travelers, Imprint is implementing a new deposit and payment policy for future tours, beginning with the Greek Islands Tour in April 2016.  European river cruises will continue to require a secondary payment (deposit, 2^nd payment, final payment).  For all other tours:

• A deposit of $400 per person is required to hold your seat. Deposits are only refundable for 30 days upon receipt, after which they are not refundable for any reason.
• Final payment is due 90 days prior to tour commencement and is nonrefundable. However, those willing to make an early final payment will receive a $300 per person discount on the price of the tour (the discount may vary on some tours).  The early payment discount is available until 9 months prior to tour commencement.  For all early final payments, $600 per person is nonrefundable.  At 90 days prior to tour commencement, the entire final payment is nonrefundable.
• Please note, deposits and early payments can be protected by the purchase of the Travelex 360 trip insurance policy offered by Imprint or your choice of reputable travel insurance available in the market. As always, we strongly urge all tour members to acquire travel insurance.

If you missed our earlier announcement, Imprint has initiated two new practices.  Many of you have been great about recommending Imprint to your friends and family.  I thought it was time to reward those referrals.  Henceforth, any referral resulting in a new Imprint client will be rewarded with $100 off on your next tour.  Second, to enable smaller group possibilities, for some destinations we will now be offering tiered pricing (small group = higher price; bigger group = lower price).

And finally, for your future travel planning, our tour schedule for the next few years is below.  2016-17 destinations are confirmed (except Africa and India).  Final decisions and final details on the 2018-20 schedules are still to be determined – but all details will be determined 18 months prior to tour departures.  Please take a look and let us know if any of these future destinations appeal to you.  We will gladly add you to their respective, dedicated mailing lists.

Mark your calendars for future travel fun.  And above all, keep traveling, and “Travel with Intent.” Best, Reid

2016

• Egypt is on!  February 18 - March 2, 2016 ($4000).  Optional 6-day extension of Israel Mar 2-8 ($1850).  This tour is oversold!  A second departure has been added:  March 10-23.  2^nd Israel extension, Mar 23-29, dependent on interest.  Sign up now.
• Greek Islands:  April 21 – May 2, 2016 (<20 $3800; 20+ $3600).  Optional 2-day extension of Delphi & Meteora Apr 19-21 ($750).  Sign up now.
• Morocco:  Nov 8 – 19, 2016 (<16 $3400; 16-20 $3250; 21+ $3000).  The tour is posted on the website.  An official announcement is pending.

2017

• China – cost and dates to be determined.
• Thailand and Vietnam, with options for Myanmar and Angkor Wat.  February 2017.  Tiered pricing.  Our goal is to make Southeast Asia a regular core destination.
• Greek Islands.  We hope to offer this tour every spring (and maybe summer too)
• French River Cruise.
• Under consideration:  Northern India or Africa in the fall.

2018-20

• Peru, Ecuador, and Patagonia – order to be determined, but definitely time to explore South America.  There was a lot of “write-in” interest for adding Antarctica to the Patagonia tour – I will investigate
• Greek Islands (annually)
• European River Cruises (annually)
• 2019 Thailand & Vietnam (extensions:  Myanmar & Angkor Wat)
• Under consideration:  Bali; Southern India; Africa

Imprint's Vibrant Vietnam Tour - Hanoi

Imprint Tours recently completed a first successful tour of Vietnam, our newest destination.  The tour began in Hanoi, which I found to be a very pleasant city.  The city feels fresh and vibrant with attractive old and new architecture.  There are lots of green spaces – large parks with lakes and temples where one sees locals picnicking with their families or doing tai chi in the dawn light.  One such park, surrounding Hoan Kiem Lake, was an easy stroll from our hotel.  A very picturesque temple, Ngoc Son, sits on a tiny island in the lake.  It is reached by a traditional red Vietnamese bridge and is illuminated at night, making a very romantic setting.

Also within walking distance was the bustling, densely populated Old Quarter, the traditional heart of Hanoi.  This is the Asian cityscape of your imagination with street vendors, motorbikes, narrow and congested streets, and the constant, exotic smells of Vietnamese cooking.  It’s a great place to come for dinner.  Street names reflect the traditional commerce conducted for hundreds of years, such as Rice, Jewel, or Silk St.  Visiting this part of the city, one cannot avoid the in-your-face reality that you’re not in Kansas anymore Toto.  I found it exhilarating.

On our first day we visited the infamous Hanoi Hilton (Hoa Lo Prison) and the Temple of Literature, the city’s two top sights.  The prison was slightly chilling, as prisons often are.  Models and mockups showed the inhumane treatment that occurred, but we had to use our imaginations to get a true idea of what it was like.  It was our first exposure to the slanted anti-American propaganda promulgated at any war memorial.

They say that history is written by the victors, and so the version presented is quite different from our American perspectives.  I found the heavy-handed versions to be equal parts amusing and thought provoking.  However, I must point out, there was no identifiable anti-American feeling or attitude from the people themselves, none whatsoever.  They seem a very content people, willing to let the past be the past.  Their healthy attitudes translated into a welcoming and friendly visit for us.

I enjoyed the Temple of Literature much more.  A peaceful and quiet refuge from the hustle of the city, this religious/ philosophical retreat was quite a contrast to Hoa Lo.  Nearly 1000 years old, the temple complex boasts fine examples of traditional Vietnamese architecture and honors the country’s greatest ancient scholars and literary figures.

Formal gardens with ponds and canals surround several courtyards.  In the first, 82 stone tablets pay homage to past intellectuals of merit, inscribed with their names and accomplishments.  An impressive tiered gateway serves as entrance to an inner courtyard dominated by an impressive wooden temple devoted to Confucius.  The interior is dominated by a large, colorful statue of Confucius and wisps of incense add to the non-western ambiance.  As Hanoi is not far from the border Chinese influences in philosophy, religion, and architecture are strong here.

Nearby is a different kind of temple - the secular version.   The impressive Mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh is here in Hanoi.  We never had time to visit, but did manage a photo op on our way to Halong Bay.  The building is classic communist era architecture:  monumental in scale, austere in aspect, and military in style.  Uncle Ho, who eschewed pomp and circumstance, would probably not have approved.  But it is a fitting monument for those Vietnamese citizens who wish to pay their respects to this highly revered, national father figure.  And for us, it is an iconic image of modern Hanoi and a fitting symbol for post-war Vietnam.

Mandalay

Our final Myanmar stop was the country's cultural capital - Mandalay.  It’s a popular stop on the tourist trail with a walled citade-like palace complex surrounded by a moat, Mandalay Hill with its crowning temple and sunset views, popular crafts district, and many interesting pagodas.  Like Bagan, we had to be selective with our single day of sight seeing.

We started with a fascinating look at Mahamuni Phaya.  It is a rather non-descript temple except for on exquisite feature.  A 13-foot gold seated Buddha.  But there are lots of equally impressive Buddhas across Southeast Asia.  What makes Mahamuni unique is the volume of gold leaf that has been lovingly rubbed on to the statue by devout worshipers.  I common practice, this image now has a bumpy 6+ inch layer of gold as high as the pious can reach.  Believed to be 2000 yrs old, the knobbly lower region is contrasted by the perfectly polished (and off-limits to rubbing leaf) face.  In fact, monks reverently polish the face and brush the Buddha’s teeth each morning.

Next we made our way through the bustling crafts district.  We visited the gold pounders’ quarter, where gold is still pounded into leaf by hand.

Wood carving.

Stone carving.

Around noon we made our way to Mahagandhayan Monastery to see the 500+ monks lining up with their alms bowls for lunch.  It was very cool to see, experience, and photograph but it has become a bit of a tourist spectacle.

In the afternoon we made a stop at Shwenandaw Kyaung, an intricately carved teak monastery.

Next, Kuthodaw Pagoda to see the world’s biggest book.  The “book”  consists of 729 stone tablets, each about four feet tall, inscribed on both sides, and housed in its own white chedi.  Taken together, the rows upon rows of white chedis are an impressive sight.

We finished our day, as most tourists do, atop Mandalay Hill.  Unfortunately for us we had rain and overcast, so no sunset.

Other interesting Mandalay images:

Road to Mandalay

After our interesting 2 days in Bagan, we boarded our coach for the 6+ hour drive to Mandalay.  Fortunately, there are interesting things to see along the way to break up the long bus day.

Our first stop was Bodhi Tataung, which translates to “1000 Buddhas.”  It is a veritable “forest” of Buddha statue monuments, all lined up in rows like crosses in a huge cemetery, each with its own concrete parasol. But the Buddha garden is just the beginning.  Nearby one can see two gigantic Buddha statues.

One is standing, 424 feet high and the second highest in the world and one reclining, 312 feet long.  We snapped a few shots of the sprawling Buddha checker board and then climbed the interior stairs of the nearby 430ft Aung Setkya stupa to gain a nice viewing platform for the great Buddhas that dominate the nearby hillside.

Its an impressive sight and the work of a single monk, opened only in 2008.  As usual in Myanmar, Maia with her golden locks attracted a lot of attention and requests for photos from the locals.

Our next stop was Thanboddhay Paya, home to what can only be described as the world’s greatest “Buddha-rama”.  This whimsical pagoda has been decorated with 580,000 Buddhas images.  Most of them are tiny plastic versions, but the creativity of this fantastical extravaganza is impressive and just plain fun!  There tends to be a distinctly gaudy element to Myanmar religious art.  I noted it in my blog about the Golden Rock.  Everywhere in the country one finds lots of disco Buddhas with radiating, electric light halos and pavilions covered by strands of multicolored, Christmas-like lights.

This “Buddha-palooza” stop displayed the kitsch element in spades.  Toss in a fair measure of mythical beasts, frogs, tile-covered lizards, and rows of 30-foot obelisks covered in yet more tiny Buddhas (I got the distinct impression they probably glow in the dark too) and you begin to get the picture.  Truly delightful and a nice contrast to more staid temple complexes elsewhere.

One final stop before arriving in Mandalay was the iconic U Bein bridge in Amarapura.  It was built around 1850 by the mayor, U Bein.  This photogenic sight is the world’s longest teak footbridge, stretching almost a mile across a shallow section of Taungthaman Lake, supported by 1060 tall teak poles.

Gracing the covers of many guidebooks and travel brochures, it makes for a nice sunset stop.  We dutifully trundled off our bus and joined the throng of tourists and “commuting” monks and schoolgirls walking across the somewhat wobbly wooden structure. Then it was back on the bus and on to our centrally located hotel.

Ancient Bagan

Bagan is one of those places in the world travelers really should find the time and means to experience.  The sheer volume of temples is enough to inspire a visit.  Numbering more than 4000, the temples range from small crumbling stupas scattered on farms to beautifully maintained or refurbished active temples.

Unless you plan to stay for weeks to explore you have to pick and choose. We began with the centerpiece of Old Bagan - Ananda Pahto.  It is over 900 years old and soars 170 feet into the sky.  The profile reveals a central, golden, corncob-shaped tower, flanked at the corners by four bright red pinnacles.  The temple boasts a Greek cross plan, built of white-grey sandstone with lower levels lavishly decorated by colored, glazed tiles. Facing outward from each side of the square interior shrine are four 31-foot tall standing Buddha statues.  Nearby is the equally pleasing Khay Min Gha Phaya with its many spires.  We also visited:  Shwe Zigon Zeti, a round Shwedegon-like golden stupa temple.

Manucha Phaya with its three tightly wedged, seated Buddha statues.

Thatbyinnyu - Bagan’s tallest pagoda.

The massive, pyramid style Dhammayangyi Pahto.

For sunset - Shwesandaw Phaya.

Other Bagan highlights:

Balloons over Bagan

On our first morning in Bagan my entire group had opted to participate in Balloons over Bagan – hot air balloon ride over the temple-littered plains of ancient Bagan.  I know I sometimes overuse the word, but WOW!  It was one of those indelible lifetime travel memories one never forgets.

Upon landing we were quite simply giddy with delight.  A magnificent experience!  We departed pre-dawn from our New Bagan hotel and were bused to the flight field.  We were served coffee/tea and briefed on the flight.  Then they began to inflate the great balloons – probably 7-8 at our site.

Once the crimson colored spheres filled with sufficient hot air they pulled the 16-passenger baskets upright and we scrambled in.  Our captain, Christophe from Belgium, was courteous, informative, and personable.

We gently lifted off and as soon as we cleared the tree line were treated to a perfect sunrise and dozens of other balloons drifting silently along.  Christophe steered us over the plains and temples as the light filled the sky and illuminated our temple-studded view.  He occasionally snapped shots of us with a guide-wire mountedcamera. The air was crisp but not cold, the light sublime, the company perfect, and the view magnificent!  An absolutely perfect morning!  I could go on trying to describe the emotions and spirit, but I would fail utterly to capture our experience.  So I’m simply going to let the images articulate their 1000+ words each.  Enjoy.  And join us next time.

Mt Popa

On day 3 of our Myanmar tour we caught an early flight to Bagan.  We were picked up whisked to nearby Mt Popa, a picturesque temple complex precariously perched atop a volcanic plug in the Myingyan Plain.  It is rather stunning, sticking up like a thumb and topped with glistening stupas and spires.  It is a sanctuary for Myanmar’s 37 nats, the pre-Buddhist, animist spirits worshipped in Myanmar for centuries.  Like most religions, Buddhism merely absorbed primitive local religions as it extended across the country 2500 years ago.

Before the long climb to the temple one can observe the colorful effigies of the various nats in a ground-level sanctuary.  For those who wish to scale the heights it’s 777 steps to the top – in bare feet (required in all Myanmar temples).  We huffed and puffed our way to the great views, passing monkeys and vendors all the way up.  Local superstition suggests you not wear red or black, curse, or bring meat on the mountain as it might offend the nats, who could retaliate with a variety of maledictions and bad luck.

Before we arrived at Popa, we had a very interesting stop at a palm sugar farm.  I normally don’t enjoy this sort of stop but this one was really fascinating.  We learned how they harvested the palm sap, cooked it into a paste, and rolled palm sugar candies from it.  We got to see them making thanaka and several from our group had it applied to their cheeks.  Something one notices immediately upon entering Myanmar is that many Burmese wear this beige paste on the cheeks.  My guidebook says it is traditional make-up but our guide Tun Tun told us it is home-made sunblock, made from the bark of trees (several, but most popular is Thanaka and Wood Apple trees).

I’d say it is more aesthetic than functional with some women applying it in stylized patterns.  Apparently, everyone has a “grinding stone” at home for rubbing the bark into paste.  They also make spirits from the palm sap (think grappa or schnapps).  There were various other farm-like activities and then tea and snacks for the group.  All in all it was a very pleasant little distraction.

After Popa it was a bumpy ride back to Bagan to our comfy hotel where someone produced a bottle of scotch for a spontaneous pool-side happy hour.  For dinner we had local Myanmar cuisine while being entertained by local dancers and puppets.

Shwedegon Pagoda

On our first full day of the Myanmar tour extension, after a break for lunch and some pool time back at the hotel, we headed for Myanmar’s most famous and revered religious site – Shwedegon Pagoda.  It is a pilgrimage destination and all Burmese hope to visit at lease once in their lives.  I was reminded of Wat Phra Kheo in Bangkok, but the scale here is much grander.

Even the entrances are impressive, guarded by twin 30ft-high chinthe, or legendary half-lion, half-dragon creatures.  A huge complex dominated by a massive single, golden chedi is surrounded by a veritable sea of smaller shrines, all topped by golden pinnacles.  Unfortunately, the main chedi is being re-gilded so is covered by mats and scaffolding.  But it is still impressive, especially the latticed network of bamboo scaffolding itself.  And it is Myanmar’s largest temple - the stupa pinnacle stretches 322 feet into the sky.

The entire complex covers 12 acres and sits on a hill, adding to the sense of scale.  At the top a gold and silver coated weather vane stands sentinel.  It is inlaid with 1100 diamonds totaling 278 carats and more than 1000 other precious stones. At the pinnacle, is a hollow golden sphere decorated  with 4351 more diamonds, totaling another 1800 carats.  The ultimate top is graced with a single, 76-carat diamond.

The temple has an impressive history.  According to legend, the chedi was first built 2500 years ago.  Rebuilt or added to many times the present incarnation was finished in 1769.  The gold leaf gilding began in the 15^th century.  The pagoda suffered numerous earthquakes, the worst in 1768.  Today, it is re-gilded every 5 years -  9272 square feet.  The work and materials are paid for by donations, primarily from devout poor and middle class citizens.

There is a waiting list each year and not everyone who wants to is able to contribute.  It is not only the religious but also the social heart of the nation.  Aung San Suu Kyi addressed thousands of protesters here in 1988 and the monks’ protests of 2007 also began at the temple.

But all the history and legends are secondary to the beauty and aesthetic appeal of the complex.  When the last rays of the sun hit the complex all the gold its electrified!  We spent about 90 minutes exploring the compound with its myriad Buddha statues, buildings, pavilions, stupas, and bejeweled monuments.  As dusk fell, the stupa is illuminated, adding another dimension to its mystical wonder.  The bright reflective gold is increasingly and dramatically contrasted by the darkening sky.  It was a fitting end to our first full day in Myanmar.